I'm considering buying a KL4 sometime soon, but want to know how long it runs on the 2 123's. Does anybody know? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Here's what the Operator's Manual says:
Maximum output of 65 lumens for 65 minutes, followed by 25 minutes of moderate output, with a total "useful" output of over 15 hours. Note: Useful output is defined as a level of output sufficient to illuminate an object, such has a keyhole, from a distance of several inches in total darkness.
Used in short bursts, it lasts longer than an hour. Sorry I can't narrow it down more than that, but I'm having too much fun to be constantly looking at my stopwatch. I've proved this runtime to myself a couple of times now.
Yikes, and didn't melt? I haven't been brave enough to leave mine on for longer than ten minutes at a time.
Choua - I just happen to have four of those little buggers sitting around. I can give it a shot, but I'm afraid to hear them squeal again! I don't think they'll last very long...
[ QUOTE ] Brock said:
...To sum it up it ran just over 70 min in regulation using SF123's
[/ QUOTE ]
Brock,
Could it be handled at all; any temperature readings?
One advantage of my cm-modded 5W/kl1 is that it's running at about 3-3.5W and is still holdable after 22 minutes. I figure the LED is degrading slower than in the KL4.
I put four sets of SF123A through my KL4 sample for reasons I won't go into (I'm an idiot - 'nuff said)
That was constant-on until it dropped out of regulation. I also get about 70 minutes straight. I then reloaded and switched it straight back on.
I've also done a few other runtime tests constant-on.
Since I've had the KL4 I've been using 2-3 pairs of SF123A per week. As with the A2, with the KL4 I'm getting pretty good at keeping track of the runtime. I usually carry a spare pair of SF123As in a little bag (that holds the spare buttons from clothing) at the bottom of my pocket.
If you use the KL4 only for short bursts rather than constant-on, then the runtime could perhaps increase by as much as a third. I've never really investigated this due to not having a rig that can replicate EDC usage patterns and record output over time...
It was 140F at the head in the test jig after about 20 min and pretty much stayed there after that. It doesn't get a lot of air movement in the jig, so it might have got a bit warmer then if you were using/holding it. I could hold the body of the light, it was between 110 and 120, but I don't remember for sure.
I have asbestos hands - it runs in the family.
It doesn't get that hot. I mean, I've had rain water steaming off the Lexan lens of my 12PM before... Those were the days when I'd put four sets of DL123A Ultras (at GB£9.99 a pair) through my 12PM/N62 in a night.
I love the highs you get from fresh Lithium. I believe Brock and I share this same wonderful addiction.
lol al! in any case i hope the KL5 gets released soon...the L4 sounds really good but i already have my arc to cover my close-range flood light needs. i'm hoping the KL5 would be able to render the P60 completely redundant /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Russ, please email me as there are a number of options.
You could also post your question as a thread else where on CPF to see if more members have input.
Back on the subject: Peter Gransee once suggested that holding a light that gets really hot does a good job of keeping it cool since your body has a built-in liquid cooling system (at least for anything over body temperature). It still gets hot, but not as hot as if you leave it on its own for a while. Any comments on how well this works/doesn't work with the L4?
heat with constant run may keep me away from this light...I like to know that if I need to I can have 5w. of light for an hour without worrying about burning a knurling pattern in my skin....