Mag 2C, advice on modding it

I have an older Mag 2C that I would like to mod. I know I could go buy Lowes 14.95 replacement, or buy a drop-in for the bulb but I want to mod instead. I have it taken apart and ready to mod but am trying to decide what to actually put in it. My budget is very open, I am willing to spend money as needed for the best solution for my needs.

I don't need to push the envelope or have the brightest light on the block, just want something quite bright, decent run time, and not too much of a pain to power/charge etc (more on that below). I don't like blue light, but do like white (4000 - 5700 k) light, so would prefer something I can get in that (or warmer) range.

I have read quite a few of the threads here, mostly on Mag 3D. I have a 3D to mod too but am more decided on what to do with it, but Mag 2C info seems to be less prevalent.

My preference would be to use low-discharge NiMh C batteries like these: http://www.thomasdistributing.com/s...html?SP_id=&osCsid=a98rm8a91donrsllit8gi3gna7

They have great shelf life, and as I have other devices about that use C batteries, having several around is useful.

I am not opposed to other batteries (like 18650, or 26500) but that will require a new charger and having batteries dedicated to the light which is less desirable.

So, I guess one specific question: Is there a LED/driver/Heatsink combo that works well (aka very bright) at 2.4V?

26500s don't have the shelf life but at least they are pretty much C batteries, so I guess that would be my next choice. I have read people warning that 26500s don't fit in an older C Mag shell but think there is room in mine according to the size specs on those batteries.

I am willing to cut the thing as needed, but would prefer an option that requires as little as possible. I have plenty of soldering and electrical/electronics experience so this part doesn't bother me.

Any and all advice on options would be greatly appreciated.

Tome

Check this thread.

A neutral white Cree XR-E or XP-E with a suitable driver should work. The Micropuck is a good one.

:welcome:

Gunner12 said:

Check this thread.

A neutral white Cree XR-E or XP-E with a suitable driver should work. The Micropuck is a good one.

:welcome:

Click to expand...

Thanks. I have read that thread and that is where I found the 3D mod I will do, but I don't see much in there on 2C and especially 2C with NiMh C cells or similar. I see the thread on a Micropuck with P4 on a 2D light, so I guess you are saying with that setup (but with appropriate MagC heatsink of course) I can do something similar...?

Tome

Yup, it's just the difference in heatsink size.

Ok, so a couple more questions (please)....

From what I can tell, the SSC P4 would be a bit brighter then the CREE XP-E or XR-E, yes?

I was thinking that if I used the following:
Lightmania Mac C heat sink for SSC P4
U-bin SSC P4
Would two 2009A Micropucks in Parallel (boost mode in the app note), supply the right voltage/current for this emitter?

If so, what kind of run time do you think I could get with 2 Accupower 4500 mAh batteries?

and...

What about a CREE MC-E with the same micropuck config? and if this one, which heatsink to use since it wouldn't sit on the Lightmania sink I don't think.

Thanks for the help!
Tome

Which is brighter will depend on the flux bin used. A T bin Seoul P4 will be dimmer then a Q5 bin Cree XP-E. A P4 bin Cree XR-E will be dimmer then a U2 bin Seoul P4. If you want the most output, I'd go with the Cree XP-G R5 bin. You might need a different heatsink then, unless you order the LED on a small PCB and trim the PCB down to fit or the heatsink to accept the PCB.

2 micropucks in parallel should give you the current you want.

My guess for runtime with 2 500 mA micropucks is 2-2.5 hours.

Gunner12 said:

Which is brighter will depend on the flux bin used. A T bin Seoul P4 will be dimmer then a Q5 bin Cree XP-E. A P4 bin Cree XR-E will be dimmer then a U2 bin Seoul P4. If you want the most output, I'd go with the Cree XP-G R5 bin. You might need a different heatsink then, unless you order the LED on a small PCB and trim the PCB down to fit or the heatsink to accept the PCB.

2 micropucks in parallel should give you the current you want.

My guess for runtime with 2 500 mA micropucks is 2-2.5 hours.

Click to expand...

So if I got one of these: http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=10060
Do you know of a flat topped heatsink for Mag 2C that would work?

Also, are there other sources for the Cree XP-G R5 bin? I see this one but they don't have R5 bin: http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut937

Thanks again,
Tome

Do you know of a flat topped heatsink for Mag 2C that would work?

Click to expand...

Look in the B/S/T section for member, Download's Multisink sales thread

Are you building a multi emitter setup or a single ?

tx101 said:

Look in the B/S/T section for member, Download's Multisink sales thread

Are you building a multi emitter setup or a single ?

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.

I was only thinking of a single emitter...

Tome

In that case, you might have problems fitting a reflector together with
the multisink.

I have yet to build a single XP-G Mag but I would use a H22 DHS sink,
the Cree version. Remove the two bits that stick out the top of the pedestal
so that it is flat and thermal epoxy the XP-G star to the pedestal.
You can find them here

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/203235

I am not sure how well that will focus, maybe someone else can chime in.


Have you looked at member Nailbender's XP-G R4 sales thread ?
Find it here

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/244071

You need to get the emitter with either the 10mm board or 8mm board
and that will fit nicely on the DHS sink pedestal. Its probably best to
confirm this with Nailbender himself :thumbsup:


BTW, your Mag C, you say it is an older one. Does the serial number start
with a "C" ?
The reason I ask is that the older Mag C (without the C in the serial number)
have a larger bore than the newer ones. I think any heatsink you can buy
now will only fit the smaller bore of the newer Mag Cs.
You can ghetto-fix this problem by wrapping foil or copper tape around the
heatsink so that it fits nice and tight in an older Mag C.

tx101 said:

In that case, you might have problems fitting a reflector together with
the multisink.

I have yet to build a single XP-G Mag but I would use a H22 DHS sink,
the Cree version. Remove the two bits that stick out the top of the pedestal
so that it is flat and thermal epoxy the XP-G star to the pedestal.
You can find them here

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/203235

I am not sure how well that will focus, maybe someone else can chime in.


Have you looked at member Nailbender's XP-G R4 sales thread ?
Find it here

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/244071

You need to get the emitter with either the 10mm board or 8mm board
and that will fit nicely on the DHS sink pedestal. Its probably best to
confirm this with Nailbender himself :thumbsup:


BTW, your Mag C, you say it is an older one. Does the serial number start
with a "C" ?
The reason I ask is that the older Mag C (without the C in the serial number)
have a larger bore than the newer ones. I think any heatsink you can buy
now will only fit the smaller bore of the newer Mag Cs.
You can ghetto-fix this problem by wrapping foil or copper tape around the
heatsink so that it fits nice and tight in an older Mag C.

Click to expand...

Cool. Thanks for the links. I will have to check the diff between the R4 and R5 bin that Gunner12 suggested.

My Mag is an older one (does not have C in the serial number). Good tip on wrapping the heatsink with tape.

tx101 said:

I have yet to build a single XP-G Mag but I would use a H22 DHS sink,
the Cree version. Remove the two bits that stick out the top of the pedestal
so that it is flat and thermal epoxy the XP-G star to the pedestal.
You can find them here

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/203235

I am not sure how well that will focus, maybe someone else can chime in.

Click to expand...

Found the answer to mounting on the heatsink: Post #99 in this thread
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/244071&page=4

I also see that P4 bin is just a tiny bit less luminous then a P5. That should be fine as well...

Gracias

Well, I finished the mod of my Mag C. I took the advice here and inspiration from this thread: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2057789

LED: XP-G R4 on an 8mm board https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/244071
Driver: Two 2009s Micropucks in Parallel, Boost http://ledsupply.com/02009-sho.php
Heatsink: "C" HAIII https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/203235
Batteries: 2 4500mAh AccuPower Evolution Low self-discharge NiMH http://www.thomasdistributing.com/s...html?SP_id=&osCsid=a98rm8a91donrsllit8gi3gna7
Glow powder (Ultra Green v10) http://glowinc.com/
Devcon 2-Ton Epoxy (from my local hardware store)

Some random, not very good, beam shots. All taken in complete darkness (except one on counter).

As expected the heatsink does not fit snugly in my older style Mag C. I was all set up to wrap it in aluminum foil and put thermal paste on it, but I ran the light for over 45 mins and opened it up and it was barely warm. The micropucks too were only slightly warm to the touch.

One thing is that since focus isn't very wide-ranging I just have it screwed all the way down which presses the heatsink to the body at least around the rim. I will use it this way all the time I expect. I don't think it gets hot enough to warrant wrapping and gooping it all up...

Nice mag build.
I'm going to have to make one of these with an XP-G to se how it looks.
Long live the Micropuck, such a simple but bombproof driver, Where did you get the Micropucks from?

Essexman said:

Nice mag build.
I'm going to have to make one of these with an XP-G to se how it looks.
Long live the Micropuck, such a simple but bombproof driver, Where did you get the Micropucks from?

Click to expand...

Thanks. It is really quite bright, certainly a big step up from a regular old Mag C. I like the glow powder touch, it makes it easy to find in the dark. The Micropucks were a good suggestion. Two of them fit up under the HAIII heatsink easily enough. They are small, simple to solder together and seem pretty bullet proof.

I got them here: http://ledsupply.com/02009-sho.php

Tome