L-Mini II Clone: Same Driver, but with XP-G R4 5C1 in Physically Similar Host...?

I would like to reincarnate my L-Mini II with XR-E Q3 5C in a host with physical dimensions and build quality as close as possible to my L-Mini II, with the same exact driver but with an XP-G R4 5C1. Originally, I considered taking my L-Mini II apart and just putting the XP-G inside, but I am not convinced from this thread here that the rings will be entirely gone: the reflector in the L-Mini II is designed for the XR-E, plain and simple.

I am fishing for suggestions on a slim host to accomodate the L-Mini II driver with dimensions as close to the L-Mini II as possible, with an orange peel reflector designed natively for an XP-G. Additionally, I am not looking to purchase an expensive light and modify it, as I need to keep costs down. The Jet-III Pro ST, for example, is larger than my L-Mini II and at $76.00 at a popular retailer is too expensive to discard the guts in favor of the driver and LED I want to use.

I emailed Bryan at Shiningbeam about using the S-Mini as a donor host. The last S-Mini to sell on the MP went for $35, which is at the high end of my budget. In his reply, Bryan stated that the base of the L-Mini II perfectly regulated driver is 17mm, which is smaller than the one used by the S-Mini, and thus will not fit perfectly. I believe that a competent modder can overcome this, but before setting my mind to purchase an S-Mini or wait for a used one to show on the MP, are there any other slim 18650 bodies out there which have a native XP-G reflector that can accomodate a 17mm driver? There are many reports of inferior build quality on the Yezl Z1, so while the size is good, I will not be buying one.

In the $20–$30 range, what other slim 1x18650 hosts are out there with good (or great) build quality and a native XP-G orange peel reflector and the ability to accomodate the 17mm perfectly regulated driver from the L-Mini II?

Any thoughts as to how the Trustfire TR-801 would accomodate the Shiningbeam driver and an XP-G?

Works fine with the Shining beam driver. The reflector will likely give a poor beam pattern. I'd suggest going XM-L. It will be floody but the beam pattern will be smooth. Output should be similar to XP-G at this current I believe.

Oh, fooey. I already have the XP-G on round board all ready to go...I suppose the XR-E specific reflector of the Trustfire spoils it.

I'll have to find a different host, with native XP-G reflector.

Hmmmm, I think I was able to get a decent beam out of the L-mini 2 with an XP-E, but did not try XP-G.

Sorry, DX somewhere should have one... I just don't know it yet.

What kind of beam are you looking for? Why not just sell the XP-G and buy an XM-L?

I am trying to clone my L-Mini II as closely as possible. The L-Mini II has a nice balance of throw and spill, in a compact host, with my favorite driver ever. So I bought a perfect regulated circuit, and I bought an XP-G R4 5C1 from another member to try and mimic the XR-E Q3 5C tint in the original.

I am afraid that though the spill on an XM-L will be quite pleasing to the eye, it will lack throw, and I need that combo in a hiking light.

I'll keep the XP-G R4 5C1 regardless. ;-)

LEDAdd1ct said:

In the $20–$30 range, what other slim 1x18650 hosts are out there with good (or great) build quality and a native XP-G orange peel reflector and the ability to accomodate the 17mm perfectly regulated driver from the L-Mini II?

Click to expand...

I modded this host from DX with an XPG R4 and SB 1.4A 3 mode driver. At < $11, it has everything you are looking for (good quality, small 18650 host). It has a side switch, but I find it to be a good fit with this size. The only challenge is opening the head which I did with two strap wrenches and it came apart pretty easily without scratching the surface. I have not got around to posting the mod yet, but it was very easy. The aluminum OP reflector is quite deep gives a nice smooth beam with decent hotspot and spill.

Five things come to mind about the SIPIK HK21 you linked to:

1) It can tailstand, which is awesome...there are many reports that the TR-801 cannot

2) It takes a 17mm driver according to one of the reviews on the DX page; since Bryan at Shiningbeam confirmed that the perfect regulated driver is also 17mm, it should be a perfect fit!

3) The side switch is very enticing...is it forward or reverse?

4) My primary concern, as with the TR-801, is putting an XP-G in a reflector designed for an XR-E...there will be a gap between the bottom of the reflector and the LED. Won't that cause a donut or ring...?

5) There are some reports of protected cells not fitting in the SIPIK HK21. Will AW protected cells in the 2600 and 2900 variety fit?

I re-read your post about the quality of the beam, but just want to make sure it is entirely smooth with no gaps, holes, rings, or donut special effects when using the XP-G in the XR-E reflector.

LEDAdd1ct

P.S. gunga, I don't mean to sound dismissive, as I definitely appreciate your input, too!

LEDAdd1ct said:

Five things come to mind about the SIPIK HK21 you linked to:

1) It can tailstand, which is awesome...there are many reports that the TR-801 cannot

2) It takes a 17mm driver according to one of the reviews on the DX page; since Bryan at Shiningbeam confirmed that the perfect regulated driver is also 17mm, it should be a perfect fit!

3) The side switch is very enticing...is it forward or reverse?
Reverse clicky

4) My primary concern, as with the TR-801, is putting an XP-G in a reflector designed for an XR-E...there will be a gap between the bottom of the reflector and the LED. Won't that cause a donut or ring...?
I made no mods to the reflector or height of the XPG board. Just swapped out the emitter and driver and screwed the head on. I am pleased with the beam. There maybe a slight ring, but that does not matter when using in the "real world". Even if doing a white wall shot, it's acceptable (at least to my eyes). I'll try to capture it with a pic tonight.

5) There are some reports of protected cells not fitting in the SIPIK HK21. Will AW protected cells in the 2600 and 2900 variety fit?
Fitment is tight, and yes, the body does not screw all the way down. For me, not really an issue. It does screw on enough to hold just fine. If it really bothers you, you could also fill the gap with an o-ring. Again, pictures would illustrate the point better and I'll try to get those done tonight for you.

I re-read your post about the quality of the beam, but just want to make sure it is entirely smooth with no gaps, holes, rings, or donut special effects when using the XP-G in the XR-E reflector.
I'll try to capture in a picture as I mentioned above. I will make no guarantees that you will fee the same as I do about the beam. This is an area specific to each user, but will try to describe an illustrate as best I can.

LEDAdd1ct

P.S. gunga, I don't mean to sound dismissive, as I definitely appreciate your input, too!

Click to expand...

Answers in quote above.

Many thanks, Hill. I appreciate your thoughts, and anticipate your pictures.

*thumbs up*

One more option, get an unglued s-mini and change the emitter. I just got mine, it is glued, but who knows, that could change in the future.

Hi, gunga. Yes, modding the S-Mini was/is the option I desire. It has a native XP-G reflector, it has excellent reviews with respect to build quality, and with some luck, I should be able to find a modder to open the head and install the 17mm perfect regulated circuit and R4 5C1. I have several threads listed on the MP to trade for an S-Mini, but no bites yet.

This thread was made in hopes of finding a cheaper option that will fulfill the purpose at hand. However, I acknowledge that the S-Mini will have much better build quality.

Who knows—if I come into possession of one soon by sale or trade, I may yet go that route. But it is difficult to justify buying one straight out, when the two cheaper hosts discussed in this thread, Trustfire and Sipik, are one quarter the price.

I'm surious, why do you want to use the perfect regulated driver? It is a great driver, but the S-mini one is very similar. It does use PWM on lower levels instead of current regulation, but otherwise is very similar.

Once you add the cost of the driver and host, your price is around $22 ish (assuming a $11 host). Add the emitter and you are at mid 30's. An s-Mini is around $35-40 on the marketplace (neutral but 3D, not 5C tint).

Price difference is not so much after that. I did a Trustfire 801 with the same driver and neutral XP-E LED, ended up costing around $35 in the end. Price was similar to getting an S-mini on the marketplace (again, the driver is not identical nor the tint).

I already own the perfect regulated driver (it at a modder's home right now; I bought two at once, and it is being kept safe) and the 5C1 is sitting here next to me. So, the LED and driver I already own.

I guess it is that I really have brought my light purchasing activities way, way down from when I first joined. I like middle of the road lights, like the L-Mini II and S-Mini. Not crazy expensive, but not super cheap, either. We'll see what I can sell/trade on the MP, and that more than anything else will most likely determine which host I use.

I have to agree with gunga on this one. If your intent is just to get a light, than opting for the brand new one makes sense. If however, you are into modding, then the thrill is in the actual build.

My modded Sipik 18650 host cost:

host ~$11
XPG R4 ~ $8
1.5A driver ~ $5
shipping total for parts ~4$
total ~ $28

Not much cheaper than getting an S-mini brand new. Not sure the differences in host quality since I only have the Sipik, but I'm am happy with it.

Thank you, Hill. Sometimes, we need reason to keep us on the straight path.

Between the Sipik and Trustfire, which do you think has better build quality?

Sipik

Pros:

• can tailstand
• has side switch, which is unusual
• is ten bucks

Cons:

• head might be pain to open
• protected cells not a perfect fit

Trustfire

Pros:

• has three glow in the dark pieces between the rings and tail
• head should open easily
• should fit protected cells

Cons:

• $18
• can't tailstand without some modification

Well again, "which is better" is a matter of opinion. Since I do not own the TR801, I can't make a fair assessment. I think in the end, you really can't go wrong with either. I know there was a sales thread some time ago by a member who modded the TR801 with MC-E with much success. If you are dead set on tail clickies, then the TR801 is the choice. I personally like the side clicky, but it does not leave extra room to upgrade the heatsinking. The glued head of the Sipik was not hard to open with strap wrenches, but that means buying those if you don't already own them. Personally, I like a challenge and am surprised the Sipik has not gotten more attention given it's low cost and decent build. I even considered buying more since the upgrade was a snap, but have other projects in mind so have not gone that route.

It's late and I won't get those photos up tonight, but will try in the next few days....

Thanks for the help, Hill. I definitely appreciate it!

Have a good night, and I look forward to those beamshots when you have time.

LEDAdd1ct,

Pictures below as promised:


White wall shot ~ 1 meter (XPG R4 @ 1.4A)


Comparison to solarforce running XM-L @ 2.8A
Sipik XPG (left)-------solarforce XM-L (right)


Pill removal after unscrewing head






Exploded view


Perfectly centered and focused emitter


Next is close up of threads. Takes 4 1/4 turns to close without battery. Will only screw down 2 1/4 turns with AW 18650. Very small gap left but not really noticeable.
Order: unscrewed, screwed (no battery), screwed (18650)




Size comparison
Left to right: Sipik, solarforce, M@g 2C



Hand fitment