Can you identify this old Garrity light? *update it works!*

I've had it since I've been about ten (I'm not 30) and it was the light I used camping and boating while I was a kid. Just wondering what kind of batteries and bulb it takes, I'd like to get it up and running again.

Re: Can you identify this old Garrity light?

Looks like one my dad had before I got him a Lux III Minimag years back.

I'm guessing it's a 2-AA incan? Not sure if it has a name.

Bulbs you could probably find easily enough.

Have you been able to take it apart?

I think the cells are D, I'm going to hit Costco tomorrow and pick up a bulk C and D pack and see what fits. I can take the head off but not quite sure what to do about the bulb. It is as simple as taking the bulb out to the hardware store and getting the same size?

Re: Can you identify this old Garrity light?

BIG45-70 said:

It is as simple as taking the bulb out to the hardware store and getting the same size?

Click to expand...

If it's a PR based bulb, yes. If it's a 2 C or D cell a 2 cell Mag replacement bulb will do you fine.

Re: Can you identify this old Garrity light?

Most common D cell incandescent flashlights have used PR base bulbs for years and hardware stores often carry a wide variety so you should have no problem replacing the bulb.I had a 2AA version of that light and IIRC it used a PR base bulb.You can try cleaning the battery contacts if it fails to work with a new bulb and batteries.

Re: Can you identify this old Garrity light?

you could open it up and measure the battery tube and know what size battery it takes from the opening. As for bulbs it will take a 2.4v 0.5A bulb or better a 0.7-0.75A would be a little brighter. I would bet too many CPFers would have extra bulbs for this light laying around gathering dust. I probably have a few dozen 2 and 3 cell bulbs of various types

Re: Can you identify this old Garrity light?

I used to have one like that. It used C batteries and a PR2 bulb. I would measure the inside diameter of the light, then buy batteries that fit. The bulb that's in it probably still works.

So it turns out it takes D cells. I had some on hand from a 3d MagLED I picked up last week and decided to give em a try and they popped right in.

The coolest thing is it fired right up! I haven't used it in about 20 years or so, talk about sweet. It actually has some pretty decent throw.

So is the bulb I need the same even though it runs on D's? I would like to pick up a few extras to keep this light chugging as my camping light this summer.

BIG45-70 said:

So it turns out it takes D cells. I had some on hand from a 3d MagLED I picked up last week and decided to give em a try and they popped right in.

The coolest thing is it fired right up! I haven't used it in about 20 years or so, talk about sweet. It actually has some pretty decent throw.

So is the bulb I need the same even though it runs on D's? I would like to pick up a few extras to keep this light chugging as my camping light this summer.

Click to expand...

typical PR bulbs in stores that say 2C or 2D will run on either, even a 2AA bulb will run off 2D although the output may be less depending on the current draw. Some PR base bulbs have higher current draw for larger cells to take advantage of the higher capacity available. For brighter light (less runtime) a krypton 0.7-0.75A bulb will do the trick on C/D cells.

BIG45-70,

I've been doing a lot of bulb testing lately as I've just kind of got started in my flashlight craze so I can give you a pretty good rundown on what you should use. BTW, my Dad had a very similar light sitting around his house. I don't think it's quite as old as yours but it's old. Does your's have an end cap switch? Kind of unusual. Inside there was a 4.8v .5A bulb. Pretty sure it's original as I doubt my Dad ever changed the bulb. I just tried to open it to look at it but couldn't screw off the bulb holder to try to get more details. If you want I can get it later.

As to what bulb to use, there are three that I have found that are very similar. They are a Mag 2 cell magnum star (xenon), a 2.4V/.93A xenon and a 2.0V/1.2A xenon. If you have an Ace Hardware nearby you may be able to get all three. The Mag 2 cell is probably the best thrower and the the 2.0V is likely the brightest, although all three are close. The 2.4V/.93A is the cheapest bulb and can be shipped to your local store for free if they don't have it in stock. Also, the 2.0V is an old bulb and I don't think is available anymore but I found them in a couple stores. Your at the bulbs limit with 2 fresh D cells so I don't think the life will be that great. If you don't have an Ace nearby, I know a site with cheap shipping for the 2.4V.

You can also use a krypton bulb of 2.4V and .7 or.75A. These can be found at any hardware store. They'e not as bright (although difference is minimal) and the light is yellower. I prefer the Xenon.

I cannot tell from the picture if it is 2AA or 2D. If it is a 2D, do a search for a KPR102 bulb. If it is a 2AA, search for a KPR104 bulb. I think this light was the predecessor to the Tuff Lite series by Garrity. The year would be circa 1985.

I really like the old Garrity flahslights from the 80's and 90's, they bring back memories from my childhood.

My father and I both used the same Garrity light here only in 2AA format, and that was back in the 90's, I'm 25 now.

I believe the best lamp available should be the Maglite Magnum Star xenon 2D, it should fit.

2d mag star, 2 fresh d cells, and cleaning the contacts will go a long way

Another survivor ? Well beat up but alive , the rubber is all distorted , tossed in a battery and fired right up. :devil:

Found this one in a OLD tool box that was from my dad's estate. I remembered reading this thread so I figured I would post up.

I think Garrity made a few variations of that light. I've got a similar one, but the rubber squares are more pronounced and the body is a bit beefier with soft rubber. I always use it in my garage, and for looking under the hood. I have a 2 cell magnumstar xenon bulb in it and a couple of 1D to 2AA adapters in it to keep its operation hours cheap. I hate buying D batteries, they're expensive and they usually leak or fail long before they are actually used up.