Help the mentally challenged - I've got a 17670 stuck in my G2X Pro...

OK, I posted this already in the G2X/6PX thread but have since decided that it needs its own separate post. Mods, if I'm wrong to post this again, please delete whichever is inappropriate. Here it is...

I picked up a G2X Pro out of curiosity and right out of the package I noticed the switch or rather, the switching was off. When pressed in for momentary on, it will come on in low first, as it should, but then as I continue to press until it clicks on, it comes on in high. Sometimes if I rapidly turn it off and on, it will come on in low. I've tried beating the light on the side of my hand and it has no effect.

Anyway - the real problem. So after trying everything from cleaning the contacts to trying different primaries, I got the bright idea to try to stick a 17670 in it. Big mistake. At first it seemed like it was going to fit, as it slid in by itself about halfway. Well... to make a long story short - instead of doing the smart thing and pulling it out once it met resistance, I decided to push it in further. Bad idea... There was about 2mm of battery sticking out of the end, to which I took needlenose pliers to - another bad idea. Protection circuit - gone. Sparks - shooting out... OK... It's stuck... fantastic...
Is there any way to access the other side of the battery tube or is the head actually permanently attached? I've tried whacking it, tying paracord to it and spinning it around in the hopes that centrifugal force would dislodge it, pulling at the wrap with tweezers, and prying at it with every size of widgy bar that I own (ok, well maybe not the pico widgy). It's in the freezer in a plastic bag at the moment but I don't expect that to work too well (just checked it, the light was freezing cold, but the cell won't budge). Anyone else have any suggestions? Getting corroded alkalines stuck seems to be a common problem, but a search for stuck LiCo cells brought me nothing... Obviously, drilling is out of the question...right?

Anyone with any ideas?

Thanks,
Shao

Happens to more folks then you think.

I use a powerfull 1in long magnet and sure enough cells that wouldnt budge otherwise come right out.

I paid $10 bucks for my magnet just for the sole purpose of this. Mine is 1/4 diameter and about 1~1.25inches long. This gives me a grip when I pull on it. VERY Powerfull magnet:thumbsup:

bigC

That could be a serious fire hazard as well. Depending how mangled up the -B end is. There is a wire running all the way down the side from +B to -B. If that were to short to -B you'd be in some major feces. So proceed with caution.

As to your post, the only time I got a battery jammed inside a light I had the common sense NOT to force the cell in... and returned it to the store for a refund. (Defective Fenix MC-10 FWIW)

I would mix up some JB weld and epoxy a ~24 AWG solid copper wire onto that -B. Wait for it to harden and give it a pull. Just make SURE you dont short that +B wire to the copper or battery tube.

Good Luck!! Somehow I think this one is not covered under the SF lifetime warranty.

I posted a couple of ideas in the Surefire thread, but the ones in this thread are waaaay better than mine.

Sounds like the battery is already garbage. Take it outside, hold it by the head and swing it. I put 17670s (AW, take silver label off first) into my Ti 2-pak McClicky - I have to swing it (cupped into my hand) to start them moving out.

It should serve as a warning to others too that protected cells are considerably larger diameter than unprotected cells. Protected cells have a small wire running down the side and an extra layer of shrink wrap. Just because a light is compatible with unprotected 18650 cells, it should not be assumed that its compatible with protected 18650.

bigchelis said:

Happens to more folks then you think.

I use a powerfull 1in long magnet and sure enough cells that wouldnt budge otherwise come right out.

I paid $10 bucks for my magnet just for the sole purpose of this. Mine is 1/4 diameter and about 1~1.25inches long. This gives me a grip when I pull on it. VERY Powerfull magnet:thumbsup:

bigC

Click to expand...

Thanks bigC! Sounds like an easy solution... I'm ashamed I didn't think of that myself! I'm going to go buy the biggest neodymium magnet I can find...

kramer5150 said:

That could be a serious fire hazard as well. Depending how mangled up the -B end is. There is a wire running all the way down the side from +B to -B. If that were to short to -B you'd be in some major feces. So proceed with caution.

As to your post, the only time I got a battery jammed inside a light I had the common sense NOT to force the cell in... and returned it to the store for a refund. (Defective Fenix MC-10 FWIW)

I would mix up some JB weld and epoxy a ~24 AWG solid copper wire onto that -B. Wait for it to harden and give it a pull. Just make SURE you dont short that +B wire to the copper or battery tube.

Good Luck!! Somehow I think this one is not covered under the SF lifetime warranty.

Click to expand...

Also a great idea... I considered the adhesive approach but didn't have anything on hand that I would consider heavy duty enough. Since the magnet is indefinitely reusable, I'll try that approach first, then go for your method if the magnet doesn't do it. I do realize the danger involved as I did notice sparking as I accidentally shorted the lead from the positive to the negative end for a second while trying to remove the cell with tweezers. I know... I know...

nfetterly said:

Sounds like the battery is already garbage. Take it outside, hold it by the head and swing it. I put 17670s (AW, take silver label off first) into my Ti 2-pak McClicky - I have to swing it (cupped into my hand) to start them moving out.

Click to expand...

Oh yeah, I don't care about the battery at this point. I have many others that rarely get used to take his place. I have some pretty fast arm speed and I've been unable with all of my wild swinging to budge it even a nanometer. It is really REALLY in there. If all else fails, I can always take one for the team and destroy the light to get at its tasty innards. I don't know if anyone else has done a breakdown of the bezel on one of these (6PX or G2X) since they seem to be glued down pretty tight. Well.. off to check the other thread... Thanks everyone... I'll keep you updated with my progress, but it may take awhile, seeing as though I'm going to have to wait for the magnet to arrive. Then I'll have to solve the switch issue.

As suggested, neodymium is your friend.

Shao, I've seen pictures of a gutted 6PX and it has red loctite on the bezel threads. I'm sure it'd be the same for the G2X. Would it be too risky to take a propane torch to the nearby bezel area and try to just unscrew the head off? That would definately let you get the battery out without destroying anything.

Throw it in the freezer for a couple of hours then try the swing thing. Hopefully the battery will contract more than the aluminum.

Ooops, you already tried that.

Remind me not to buy the next 6PX Pro you sell!

Hey there Shao.

Perhaps try some oil (the lubricating type used for electronics / mechanical stuff) dripped around the edges of where the battery wedges against the tube. Even if its jammed in there tight, the oil should seep in between the battery and the tube.

You will still need some kind of extraction method, but the oil should make it a little easier.

Good luck mate!

d337944 said:

Hey there Shao.

Perhaps try some oil (the lubricating type used for electronics / mechanical stuff) dripped around the edges of where the battery wedges against the tube. Even if its jammed in there tight, the oil should seep in between the battery and the tube.

You will still need some kind of extraction method, but the oil should make it a little easier.

Good luck mate!

Click to expand...

I would think twice about this.... OP as you have already seen, you have an electrical spark/fire hazard here. Many oils are highly flammable and should not be exposed to electrical spark.

Not only a fire hazard, but it could also create a vacuum seal. Try the magnet, but as Kramer5150 suggested the JB weld will work.

d337944 said:

Hey there Shao.

Perhaps try some oil (the lubricating type used for electronics / mechanical stuff) dripped around the edges of where the battery wedges against the tube. Even if its jammed in there tight, the oil should seep in between the battery and the tube.

You will still need some kind of extraction method, but the oil should make it a little easier.

Good luck mate!

Click to expand...

Shao,

Hope you don't mind too much, but I'm LMAO picturing the sparks, the twirling by paracord, the whole bit.

Of course, I've never done anything mentally challenged...

...like causing a $900 mistake with a car battery last year.

shao.fu.tzer said:

Obviously, drilling is out of the question...right?

Click to expand...

OMG!!!... LOL!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f30fBFitkSM

Definitely try some of the other suggestions first.

Be safe!

some very reckless advice here guys. A friggin BLOWTORCH????? C'mon now .

Just slow down here and think about the situation for a little . I always regret rushing into things . Sounds like the fit is so tight you may have some suction resistance going on also . JBweld could work and is a safe alternative but just sit back and think calmly about this. we are not talking thousands of foot pounds of force here. I just dont want to see you get hurt in haste here my friend!!

Bimmerboy said:

OMG!!!... LOL!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f30fBFitkSM

Definitely try some of the other suggestions first.

Be safe!

Click to expand...

I don't have any better suggestions to add - magnets or JB weld would be the way to go - but had to thank bimmerboy for that video link. That was spectacularly violent!

purelite said:

some very reckless advice here guys. A friggin BLOWTORCH????? C'mon now .

Just slow down here and think about the situation for a little . I always regret rushing into things . Sounds like the fit is so tight you may have some suction resistance going on also . JBweld could work and is a safe alternative but just sit back and think calmly about this. we are not talking thousands of foot pounds of force here. I just dont want to see you get hurt in haste here my friend!!

Click to expand...

Now that I think about it, that really is a bad idea... sorry for the bad suggestion, friends!!

purelite said:

some very reckless advice here guys. A friggin BLOWTORCH????? C'mon now

Click to expand...

I'm dyin' over here.

Ok, the method I'm about to offer was not my original idea but I got the idea from a piece of reloading equipment. Using strong string and or tape, attach the light body to the end of a stick. Then swinging the stick let it come to an abrupt stop against the palm of your hand with the flashlight body hanging over open space. The battery should pop out pretty easy.

OK... update time... I tried using four 1/2" x 1" N52 neodymium magnets to pull the 17670 out and... nothing... Didn't budge at all! Looks like it's JB Weld and wire time! I've tried all manner of spinning, pulling, string tying, whacking, freezing, smacking, and shaking. If the JB Weld and wire doesn't work, I'm going to consider putting the light up on the MP for super cheap along with its background story (of course) to see if anyone else wants to have a go at it.

Bimmerboy - thanks for the video - I now have the light in a plastic bag under a stainless steel bowl and 35 pound weight over concrete!!!

I suppose I should rough up the surface of the cell with sandpaper first to get a good bond... I'll post another update after I see if that works. Thanks for the suggestions everyone!

Shao