Any information on HDS U60 upgrade to XM-L?

I've been out of CPF world for a while and it seems like XM-L is one of the new bright leds out there now.

The HDS EDC U60 is my favorite flashlight and the one I love to upgrade. It's been upgraded from stock (2005) to SSC P4 (2007), then to Luxeon K2 (2009). It's now 2011 and probably time to upgrade again.

However, I can't find any information (with photos) from people upgrading their HDS U60 to the XM-L. Unfortunately the U120 and newer models have different insides so those threads aren't much help.

I've been through the first 30 pages of these forum and so far nothing. Can anybody point me in the right direction? Thanks!

According to datiled you will need one of his 8mm xm-l pcb boards, attach your XM-L to that, then you need to fabricate a copper shim to bring it up to the proper height for the reflector. The assemblage fits right into the existing recess for the old Luxeon.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...00-OTF-Lumens-XM-L-HDS-U60-another-price-drop

I have my HDS B42 torn-down because I am upgrading it to an XML, and changing the driver.
The die height of the old Luxeon1 is 3.25mm
Datiled's 8mm boards are 0.8mm thick
The case height of an XML is 0.73mm

So, on paper, that comes out to a shim of a ~1.7mm provided that the XML focuses in the reflector at the same height as the old Luxeon (maybe less allowing for the thickness of thermal compound).

Someone correct me if I am wrong.

ubermensch, Thanks for all the details. I actually did see the thread you pointed out. I've been out of it for a while so everything is new to me again. Especially the XM-L, XP-G.

Are there any good threads that discuss their differences? The beam, size, output, etc?

Okay, so I just finished modding my HDS (now formerly) B42XRGT. It got an Lflex driver from taskled, and a T5 neutral white XML. The hypothetical shim height that I posted before turned out to be wrong. The correct shim height is more like ~1.05mm (you want the top of the case of the emitter flush with the top of the recess, with just the dome sticking up).

Uber,
Can you post any install pics or beamshots. What Amp does the Lflex drive to? This is very interesting and I also have several HDS lights which need upgrading.

ubermensch, what was the reason for changing the driver? Are there drivers that offer the same options as the HDS?

One of the things I really liked about the HDS (years ago, 2005) was that it had great regulation and customization.

I ended up sending my HDS to datiLed to be modded by him. I didn't have all the tools and materials to properly perform this upgrade. There's a good chance he'll do a better job at it than I would.

Good call on getting it professionally done--it is a really intricate job and there are many ways to mess it up.
I changed the driver because I had the basic extended runtime version HDS, so it would really be underdriving the XML and it was difficult to change the programming (150 clicks to change a setting). If it was the Ultimate non-XR version I would have left the driver. The lflex is user customizable from 500mA to 3000mA, and ramping brightness. I have it set to 1500mA and it heats up pretty quick. Even with the smooth reflector the beam is nice and floody with no artifacts. And no I have not found any other comparable drivers that use a momentary switch.

Any snaps of the progress along the way?
I've been away as well though I'd found the stock U60 to perform satisfactory what I use it for most the time. Alas, times change so having a bit more to it these days would be welcomed.

Might go looking at what datiLed has done for some ideas.

uploading pics now...

Simple, if you have already upgraded your HDS this should be no different :

1. Disassemble Light and remove LE

2. Desolder leads to led take note of positive and negative (mark them with a sharpie)

3. Remove LED and clean all paste and residue from around the led cavity.

4. Install new LED - I used artic alumina adhesive ( 2 part epoxy).

note : I used an XM-L mounted on a datiled board. At first I used a .053 copper shim to bring the led to the reflector , but it rubbed against the back of the reflector so i removed it and glued the led+board directly to the heatsink. My HDS has the "smooth" integrated (non-removable) reflector ,but the XM-L is designed more for flood so thats what I get from the smooth reflector . Its also sitting back a bit , so it slightly of focus. I did not see any noticeable difference in the beam from when I had the LED all the way up against the reflector so it is staying as-is. NOw for the pics:

Dissasembly:



Sloppy soldering job coming up :sick2: , that is Artic Silver 5 on the contact surface of the heatsink .You want to use Artic Silver 5 or the light will back-pedal due to increased heat (this is normal on the older HDS)


The results: ( Bright has heck HDS)



Next to its younger cousin the Novatac 120-E

I am thinking of remodding my B42GT from P4 to XM-L, but would like high CRI. I'm only seeing high CRI in XP-G format, though. It doesn't look like the Datiled 8mm MCPCB would fit the pads of an XP-G, right?

Having CPF trouble; hope this isn't a double post...

The XP-G pads are not in the same place as the XM-L boards, so they won't work. The Sandwich Shop has XP-G boards, though.

Thanks for that tip! The Shoppe lists them as XP-E boards (same pad layout as XP-G, it seems).

louie said:

Thanks for that tip! The Shoppe lists them as XP-E boards (same pad layout as XP-G, it seems).

Click to expand...

You are correct. The Shoppe XP-E boards will fit the XP-G, and a few other LEDs; the Osram Oslon and Nichia 129. :thumbsup: