AW Soft Start switch on stock lower powered Surefire's

ebow86

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I understand this AW soft start switch is mainly for usage on much higher powered incandescents, but I was wondering if anyone could tell me if there would be any issues running one in a few stock surefire's like an M3 with MN10 or a 9P Turbo with MN15 and cr123 primaries? Looking at the user interface I pretty much seem to understand it, however, would twisting the z41 on off on off on off be able to switch between the different output modes, the same as pressing the switch on off does?

And finally, do we have any long term reliability reports on this switch?
 
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Eric242

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You don´t have to twist and actually can not twist to change modes or turn the light on. It´s an electronic switch. If you turn it the circuit is broken. You screw the Z41 all the way down. Press to turn the light on, press again for the next level and again for the third. Press again to return to the first level. Press and hold for a about two seconds to turn it off (or simply turn the switch just a bit - it´s really just a bit, not more than a 10th of a full turn). As long as you didn´t turn the switch, and break the circuit that way, it will remmber the last brightness setting. If the light is off press the switch for about two seconds and you´ll get the only strobe I have ever seen I consider usefull since it is not such a high frequency that appears to be a flickering light. As long as the switch is turned all the way there´s always a slight current draw. So lock it out for storage and transportation. I don´t think lower powered lights are a problem at all for the switch. I use it on a LED light (lumens factory P7 turbo head) and it works fine. As long as it´s 6V -30V it should be fine.

Eric
 
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ajl

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I have my Soft Start Switch on a Surefire C2, Lumens Factory bulb, and a 17670 rechargeable battery (full charge - 4.2 volts). It works just fine.
 

ebow86

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You don´t have to twist and actually can not twist to change modes or turn the light on. It´s an electronic switch. If you turn it the circuit is broken. You screw the Z41 all the way down. Press to turn the light on, press again for the next level and again for the third. Press again to return to the first level. Press and hold for a about two seconds to turn it off (or simply turn the switch just a bit - it´s really just a bit, not more than a 10th of a full turn). As long as you didn´t turn the switch, and break the circuit that way, it will remmber the last brightness setting. If the light is off press the switch for about two seconds and you´ll get the only strobe I have ever seen I consider usefull since it is not such a high frequency that appears to be a flickering light. As long as the switch is turned all the way there´s always a slight current draw. So lock it out for storage and transportation. I don´t think lower powered lights are a problem at all for the switch. I use it on a LED light (lumens factory P7 turbo head) and it works fine. As long as it´s 6V -30V it should be fine.

Eric

So the switch doesn't act as a clicky? And does one still tighten the tailcap all the way to keep constant on brightness? I understand from your description on how to cycle through modes, but what does one do when they want constant on brightness?
 

scout24

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Yes, it acts as an electronic "clicky". I use one with a stock P60, giving lower levels for indoor use with no problems. Twist until tight, "click" the tailcap boot to turn on, or to change levels. Press and hold for two seconds to turn off. The only twist needed is for lockout or to change cells. :)
 

ebow86

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Yes, it acts as an electronic "clicky". I use one with a stock P60, giving lower levels for indoor use with no problems. Twist until tight, "click" the tailcap boot to turn on, or to change levels. Press and hold for two seconds to turn off. The only twist needed is for lockout or to change cells. :)

Great, makes perfect sense, thank you.

EDIT: Just a few more questions please.

1. Is there any change in brightness in high mode between a stock tailcap and one with the AW switch installed?

2. How is the build quality of this switch? Does it feel like something that will last and hold up under heavy usage?

3. Do we know if AW is still manufacturing these?
 
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scout24

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1. I haven't noticed a difference, personally. I would expect a negligible difference with the circuitry, but I could be wrong...

2. Seems solid, no complaints

3. Got mine from Lighthound, not sure of current stock or AW's availability.

:)
 

ebow86

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1. I haven't noticed a difference, personally. I would expect a negligible difference with the circuitry, but I could be wrong...

2. Seems solid, no complaints

3. Got mine from Lighthound, not sure of current stock or AW's availability.

:)


Thanks, I sent an email to lighthound asking if they are going to be getting any in stock soon, expect to be hearing from them. This switch seems like godsend to us incan guys, it solves many of the shortcomings of incandescent flashlights. Is the installation as simple as the directions on lighthound seems to suggest? Either way, I would probably first install it on an older spare Z41 I have just incase.

Also, what kind of precautions should be taken regarding lube on the threads. This is obviously an electronic switch and I imagine getting lube smeared all over it isn't a desirable thing.
 
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ajl

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I have installed the softstart switch in both the z41 and z58 types; needed to put them both in a zip lock bag and into boiling water for a few moments (20 seconds?) to release the adhesive Surefire uses on their switches. Z58 to unscrew the top, Z41 to unscrew the switch guts. After that it's a cake walk.

Forgot to mention that the softstart for the z58 type switch has been out of stock for awhile. I found that I did need to 'boil' the z41 type switch for a few moments to release (unscrew) the switch inner parts to be replaced.
 
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