Is it possible for any of you to make a forward/reverse clicky for the Maelstrom X10?

I want my next light to be a Maelstrom X10, I love everything about it except that forsaken momentary-only pressure switch and the twist lock-on tail-cap! :shakehead :thumbsdow

So, is it possible to install either a forward clicky (ideal) or reverse clicky switch in the tail cap for use when the cap is all the way tightened? I understand this would probably at least require modification of the tail spring and void the factory warranty.

How much would you charge?

Send me a PM with a pic of the inside of the tailcap and I'll let you know if it can be done...

Self built has two good pics of the tail cap here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...M-L-26650)-Review-RUNTIMES-BEAMSHOTS-and-more!

It looks like the contact point for the unanodized section of the body, the metal encircling the edge inside the bottom of the cap would have to be removed or disabled.

oh, actually the entire board moves, "Pressing the plastic button simply pushes forward the circuit board slightly. This allows contact for momentary-on when the tailcap isn't fully tightened. When fully tightened, the tailcap is locked-on and the button has no effect. Scroll down to my interface section for a discussion."
hmm...?

jerrysimons said:

Self built has two good pics of the tail cap here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?318963-4Sevens-Maelstrom-X10-(XM-L-26650)-Review-RUNTIMES-BEAMSHOTS-and-more!

It looks like the contact point for the unanodized section of the body, the metal encircling the edge inside the bottom of the cap would have to be removed or disabled.

Click to expand...

It looks like from the picture there are 8 traces that connect the central spring portion of the PCB with the outer ring that makes contact with the battery tube. A cutoff wheel on the Dremel or even an X-Acto knife would make an easy job of that. The real question is will there be enough room to mount a high current switch behind the PCB?

It's an iffy mod... I wouldn't risk ruining it although it can most certainly be done... I imagine the tailcap is assembled much like a Z41 and you're going to have to punch the old mechanism out... I don't see any way to unscrew it or any sort of retaining ring. I've successfully installed a McClicky in just about every light that I've tried to... Without owning one, I wouldn't want to quote you a price or even try modding it for fear of permanently damaging it. I'd torn up my share of tailcap threads while modding them... No telling how soft that Al is...

It looks like the large screw in the center of the PCB is how it's mounted to the Z41 style piston. There's probably a retaining ring underneath to hold the piston assembly and compress the boot to make it waterproof.

4Sevens is now selling individual X10/S12 tailcaps for $15, which decreases the risk of failure. Does anybody have anymore thoughts or experience with this mod?

So...has anyone come up with a clickie tail cap mod for the S12/X10 yet?

extremetito said:

So...has anyone come up with a clickie tail cap mod for the S12/X10 yet?

Click to expand...

Thought I'd make another run at asking about this clicky mod - has anyone done it yet?

I'm interested, for the record. It looks like the board can be removed fairly easily, so one would need to attach a switch to the outside of the board and use it to break contact between the outer ring on the board, and the spring. Would a McClicky be up to task?

Does anyone know if it would work with an MMU-X?

Has anyone modded a FourSevens MMU-X3 or x10 to a clicky? Today, some clicky switches can run up to 10 Amps without failing as long as the wire bypass goes from the top of the spring to the switch body - not to the spring PCB.

Or maybe use the MMU-X3R (rechargeable) clicky switch and put it into a regular Maelstrom MMU tailcap?