Fenix PD30 head disassembly

la_panza · Oct 11, 2011

Hello everybody, I'm looking for directions about the correct procedure to disassemble the Fenix PD30 head unit, and access the LED / reflecting mirror area.

Unfortunately something penetrated under the glass, I don0t know how, and the mirror now is "cloudy", as if there was condensed water.. I left the head in the open air for days, but the dirt does not go away by itself.. need to open and clean... is that possible? many thanks..

JohnnyLunar · Oct 11, 2011

Well, I can't tell you how to remove the head from a Fenix PD20/30, but I can certainly tell you how NOT to do it, if that helps.

I tried this a while back with my PD20, as it came from the manufacturer with a weird piece of something stuck to the side of the emitter. It looks like a tiny piece of clear plastic tape, and is visible in the beam against a white wall. So, I unscrewed the head from the body tube, put the flat sides of the head in a vise, wrapped the round end of the head in duct tape, then slipped a hose clamp over that. Tightened the hose clamp as tight as it would possibly go, and tried using a wrench to twist off the end of the head. That sucker is glued on there tight! I ended up crushing the flat part of the head in the vise enough that I had to spend an hour or so with pliers trying to reshape it back to original shape to thread back onto the body tube. I also took off a lot of the anodizing through the duct tape as I was twisting very hard on the hose clamp. It just wouldn't budge at all.

I'm thinking that the plastic bag/boiling water trick would work much better to loosen the glue. Keep in mind, if you break that seal of the head, you void the Fenix warranty.

JohnnyLunar · Oct 11, 2011

I might get brave enough to try this again, but with a heat gun this time. Vise, heat gun, then either twist with leather gloves, or pliers with rubber pieces between them and the aluminum to keep from scratching. My light looks like it's been through a blender, but it still works fine. If I had a brand new pretty light with no scratches, and I wanted to get into the head for some reason, I'd either send it back to the manufacturer, or be very careful with a heat method and some proper vises/tools.

la_panza · Oct 12, 2011

JohnnyLunar said:
I might get brave enough to try this again, but with a heat gun this time. Vise, heat gun, then either twist with leather gloves, or pliers with rubber pieces between them and the aluminum to keep from scratching. My light looks like it's been through a blender, but it still works fine. If I had a brand new pretty light with no scratches, and I wanted to get into the head for some reason, I'd either send it back to the manufacturer, or be very careful with a heat method and some proper vises/tools.

Good idea Johnny, my PD30 warranty time has expired, I do have a hot gun, it's in my soldering / unsoldering station, it blows out air at such a temperature to melt solderings.. but do you really think they used a glue that can be softened by heat? .. Well, I have to confess I have no better idea, so i think I'll try too, all in all my torch is nearly useless if i leave it in this state... thanks a lot

purelite · Oct 13, 2011

typically manufacturers us a product called Loctite to secure flashlight heads. some use the RED version of this substance which is classified as "permanent" I believe but it can be broken. heat is the best weapon to use but it still remains solid in the threads and gunks them up so even after breaking the substance down it can take some effort to get the pieces apart.

Heat the head up but dont go so hot as you mentioned you can go with that heat gun. You will possibly do damage to some component in the light.

really put some thought into the tools you will use and what they will do to the light. You can damage a lights finish and integrity so easily with steel tools on aluminum. If you rush just to get the dang thing apart and get frustrated you will end up ruining the light. protect the light as best you can with anything you can come up with rubber is good,rags are good. any tool you use with teeth though will go right thru rubber/tape and rags and such when substantial force is applied and you wont know till it is too late.

good luck!!

JohnnyLunar · Oct 13, 2011

purelite said:
You can damage a lights finish and integrity so easily with steel tools on aluminum. If you rush just to get the dang thing apart and get frustrated you will end up ruining the light. protect the light as best you can with anything you can come up with rubber is good,rags are good. any tool you use with teeth though will go right thru rubber/tape and rags and such when substantial force is applied and you wont know till it is too late.

I can second this advice! My experience with steel tools, vises, rubber, and duct tape with my Fenix PD20 taught me that you must take the time to really protect whatever you are working on before you begin. My light still works, but I didn't get the head off and it will forever look like it was dropped into a meat grinder.

AutoTech · Oct 13, 2011

JohnnyLunar said:
Well, I can't tell you how to remove the head from a Fenix PD20/30, but I can certainly tell you how NOT to do it, if that helps.

I tried this a while back with my PD20, as it came from the manufacturer with a weird piece of something stuck to the side of the emitter. It looks like a tiny piece of clear plastic tape, and is visible in the beam against a white wall. So, I unscrewed the head from the body tube, put the flat sides of the head in a vise, wrapped the round end of the head in duct tape, then slipped a hose clamp over that. Tightened the hose clamp as tight as it would possibly go, and tried using a wrench to twist off the end of the head. That sucker is glued on there tight! I ended up crushing the flat part of the head in the vise enough that I had to spend an hour or so with pliers trying to reshape it back to original shape to thread back onto the body tube. I also took off a lot of the anodizing through the duct tape as I was twisting very hard on the hose clamp. It just wouldn't budge at all.

I'm thinking that the plastic bag/boiling water trick would work much better to loosen the glue. Keep in mind, if you break that seal of the head, you void the Fenix warranty.

Sorry, but.. LOL

Might have been better to get an exchange one :thumbsup:

weegidy · Feb 19, 2013

I just ruined my PD30 using it inside of a sand blasting box trying to illuminate my project. I called amazon the same day and they are sending me a new one. They even paid for my shipping to send my current one in.

Fenix PD30 head disassembly

la_panza

Newly Enlightened

JohnnyLunar

Newly Enlightened

JohnnyLunar

Newly Enlightened

la_panza

Newly Enlightened

purelite

Enlightened

JohnnyLunar

Newly Enlightened

AutoTech

Enlightened

weegidy

Newly Enlightened

Similar threads

Latest posts