Am I expecting too much from a light?

I've owned serveral lights and all of them have had or are having issues with the clickie buttons. I use my light daily to inspect my work clicking the one for the day any where from 30-45 times during the normal work day.

Is that too much to last more than a few months? Ra clickie has lasted the longest this is my second replacement tail cap already. The rest havent lasted more than maybe a month. Anyone other edc's out there that run on rcr123 and last along time with alot of use? Thanks for your time.

Is the actual switch wearing out, or just the rubber button/tailcap?

Buy a light that uses a McClicky switch.

Switch from what i know but could be boot will try and find out.

Have read some great things about his products will look at them again Thanks for the fast replies.

Malkoff M61WLL, I get over 17 hours on a 18650 2600mAh. Eyes only, cant tell if it dropped, after 17 hours it dropped to like 10 lumens or so. :thumbsup:

Hey PSM - we all love Malkoff's but I'm pretty sure that even his drop ins cannot cure a worn out switch...

Maybe op needs a twisty light instead of a clicky?

I have acouple lights with 18650 but they are abit big for my pocket would like to stick with rcr123's.

I guess my butts abit burned...I work with guys that buy the cheaper big box store lights and they hold up longer than the more expensive ones I use granted I like the adjustablity(different settings) of mine and the higher lumens but in the end I need a light that will work everytime I pull it out.

How about try an electronic switch? Mechanical switches wear out after only a couple hundred actuations from mechanical stress and at times from electrode arcing. Electronic switches on the other hand have the current flow controlled by a semiconductor and will last hundreds of thousands of actuation. If you have P60 type light then you're in luck, VanIsleDSM makes a very good and reliable FETtie electronic switch here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Ttie-quot-500W-Tailcap-Switch-for-Z41-FM26XXX
Other than being more reliable they have a lower resistance and will hence allow longer runtimes as well, especially on the higher powered drop ins. Use that with a Malkoff to get the best reliability
If you dont have a P60 light then check out some lights that have electronic switches then, like Zebralight, Spark. If you dont like electronic switches then perhaps the best option would be to use what we call a "dead man's switch", which is essentially just a spring with a contact point, used in quite a few Surefire lights.

shane45_1911 said:

Hey PSM - we all love Malkoff's but I'm pretty sure that even his drop ins cannot cure a worn out switch...

Click to expand...

Oops!! That was meant for a different thread! LOL

340wedge said:

I have acouple lights with 18650 but they are abit big for my pocket would like to stick with rcr123's.

I guess my butts abit burned...I work with guys that buy the cheaper big box store lights and they hold up longer than the more expensive ones I use granted I like the adjustablity(different settings) of mine and the higher lumens but in the end I need a light that will work everytime I pull it out.

Click to expand...

What about an EagleTac D25C2 or D25LC2? High lumens, bunch of modes, just twisting with your thumb and index finger.

Are the switches you are talking about worn and hard to use or to the point of not working at all? Maybe it's got something to do with your environment.

Try HDS Rotary or one of Surefire Lumamax.

Try a Peak with a momentary switch, nothing to burn out.

jabe1 said:

Try a Peak with a momentary switch, nothing to burn out.

Click to expand...

+1

momentary switches are way more durable and reliable than a clicky, plus Peak´s are the toughest ones without being stiff to press, i find the Peak momentaries i have a are a lot more durable than my surefire L1 momentaries.

Single mode Peaks with momentary have the sweetest operation force needed and are most durable i have tried, also the size is nice to carry. They are still good with QTC for infinite variability.

another vote for peak. get rid of the clicky that fails. use momentary and twist on.

Since you said you had the Ra clicky, I believe you are talking about the one with the flush tail cap? I haven't had any problems with the protruding tail cap. Underneath that protrusion on the rubber boot is a thick piece of rubber, hardly a candidate to suffer wear and tear. Why not contact Henry from HDS and see if he still has the protruding rubber boot for switching over?

I've used clickies for years and have only ever had 1 problem. A Lumipower MVP had a bad switch. They replaced it immediately without hassle. Surefire has a few clickies. If they fail they, too, will replace instantly without charge. I've just begun to love the twisty on certain lights with certain tailcaps. The twisties seem to be more reliable. I have several HDS RA clickies. No problem whatsoever. The situation you describe is the reason that 2=1 and 2=0.

I've heard of clicky switches failing, but never as consistently and repeatedly as yours are.

Maybe it's time for a Surefire 6P or C2 host (momentary/twist-on switch) with a Malkoff drop-in.

Just get a HDS rotary & you'll not be dissapointed,saves a lot of clicking action & you get to have your light on whatever level of
brightness you choose & you have the lifetime warranty to back it up.:thumbsup:

Nitecore ex11.2


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