Cut down 2D Maglite Shorty with XM-L T6 emitter

I'm doing just a shortie post here...
This is a 2D Maglite that I cut down to use 3AA batteries. (I believe a smart Li-ion type person would substitute with a 26650 or 32650 "C or D" sized Li-ion battery).


My method of cutting down the barrel was using the human lathe method. I cut out 2" of the center of the body. Then I used a rotary tool to open up the ID of one piece of the barrel and I used files to remove material from the OD of the other piece. The fit was ok. Then I used JB Weld on both pieces to make the joint strong (I added copper filings into the JB Weld, to help conductivity). After that, I drilled three holes in the joint and drove three brass pins in them. Now it's sturdy!

Here's a few shots of the other mods I did to this light and some of the components:



Crenulated Bezel




Also modded the tailcap




Switch is modded to use a Judco switch instead of the stock switch. Much modding was necessary using a rotary tool and a PVC ring to still have a base for the stock rubber cap to sit on.



Pedestal for the LED, so the light is adjstable just like original



105C driver 2.8A, set for 3 mode (High, Medium, Low)



Homemade 3AA Battery holder. Copper, no springs.

And here is the finished light:





Paint covers the section where it was put together. The black with copper that I normally use.


List of materials:
2d Maglite Incan
XML-T6 emitter
1-3/8 Aluminum round stock for the heatsink
20ga copper shim
1" round UHMW plastic rod stock for the battery holder
Misc threaded rod, nuts, copper, etc.
SST-50 Reflector (light OP finish)
Glass Lens
105C 2.8A circuit board
Teflon Wire
Judco Switch
Artic Alumina
2 Part Epoxy
JB Weld
Copper trim ring on the head
What else??

Here's a couple indoors beam shots:

Low



Medium


High

I used a brass pin through the side of the body & thru the aluminum heatsink to make ground for the system. It is just below the threads and can't be seen when the head is in place.
The Judco switch was used, to have control of changing modes.
The beam does not have much spill and a large spot. I hope to be able to do night shots outdoors sometime.
This light goes up for sale as always. I use the money to be able to build other mods. It's the wat I can keep having something to occupy my time.

That's all

Good job! I never get tired of checking out mag mods to see what imaginative solutions other folks come up with to breathe new life into an old favorite!

Old-Lumens said:

I'm doing just a shortie post here...

My method of cutting down the barrel was using the human lathe method. I cut out 2" of the center of the body. Then I used a rotary tool to open up the ID of one piece of the barrel and I used files to remove material from the OD of the other piece. The fit was ok. Then I used JB Weld on both pieces to make the joint strong (I added copper filings into the JB Weld, to help conductivity). After that, I drilled three holes in the joint and drove three brass pins in them. Now it's sturdy!

Paint covers the section where it was put together. The black with copper that I normally use.


List of materials:
2d Maglite Incan
XML-T6 emitter
1-3/8 Aluminum round stock for the heatsink
20ga copper shim
1" round UHMW plastic rod stock for the battery holder
Misc threaded rod, nuts, copper, etc.
SST-50 Reflector (light OP finish)
Glass Lens
105C 2.8A circuit board
Teflon Wire
Judco Switch
Artic Alumina
2 Part Epoxy
JB Weld
Copper trim ring on the head
What else??


That's all

Click to expand...

More details on this please. I have done this method one time using a hand drill on both the outside part of the tube and inside of the tube using a carbide file with the mag tube in my vice. The hardest part was making it a straight line or metal being removed on the part that gets filed down on the outside. It took me about 4 hours total to do it, and it isn't very straight at all.

Please give advive on what "file" you used for that outside part?!

simplec6 said:

More details on this please. I have done this method one time using a hand drill on both the outside part of the tube and inside of the tube using a carbide file with the mag tube in my vice. The hardest part was making it a straight line or metal being removed on the part that gets filed down on the outside. It took me about 4 hours total to do it, and it isn't very straight at all.

Please give advive on what "file" you used for that outside part?!

Click to expand...

http://www.youtube.com/user/OldLumens/videos

Easiest is to look for the newest human lathe video there. I have gone to a rotary tool and it makes all the difference in the world. As fas as the file, just a flat file was used on the outside. Use masking tape as a guide for the line and just plenty of practice to keep the file level as you work and work slowly, using small strokes.

My type of mods:thumbsup: Don't see too many of them as it's too much work!

Here is a thread of a few methods on Mag cutting w/o lathe.
Your method sounds like the #2, belly cutter.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ag-D-like-a-Human-Lathe&highlight=human+lathe

ma_sha1 said:

My type of mods:thumbsup: Don't see too many of them as it's too much work!

Here is a thread of a few methods on Mag cutting w/o lathe.
Your method sounds like the #2, belly cutter.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ag-D-like-a-Human-Lathe&highlight=human+lathe

Click to expand...

Yep, you're the reason I tried doing this! Thanks for your efforts in posting for all to see.

Old-Lumens - Your work and creative methods reminds me of my stepdad who passed two years ago. I was always amazed how he turned a whole lot of nothing into something very useful and sometimes beautiful. He never modified flashlights, but still, your videos and detailed posts take me back to fond memories of him making magic in his workshop. Thank you and hope to see more of your creative builds.

Man, you do the whole outside with a hand file like a mm at a time. WOW. Awesome metal work, you made it a perfect fit.

Thanks for the kind replies!
I've always found enjoyment in this kind of hand work. Something about it calms me and lets me focus for a little while.

I have a question Old-lumens. When you use a judco switch how do you keep the switch assembly in place in the light and what do use for a ground. The ground is normal with a set screw thats accessed through the switch hole. I really like the judco switch idea. Which judco switch did you use.

I'd also like to know about the switch I really like that replacement.

I think a good ground could be had in the snap ring groove. Cutting a vertical knotch across it so theres room for a wire while the snap ring holds your ground wire there.
I think I'd use a hacksaw blade in one of those short handles to make the knotch, Old-Lumens what do you think

That turned out really well. I will be picking up another Mag very soon and attempting this cut down.

Judco Switch - I put the Judco inside the Maglight switch housing. When you remove the guts of the housing, the Judco will slip in, but only so far. As you look in the housing switch hole, you will notice four squared corners in the round hole. These have to be taken down. I used a rotary tool to remove them, to the point where the Judco sits in at the height I want (same height as the standard switch button sits). Then epoxy can hold the switch in. As far as grounding, I don't think I'm the one to say. See I used the switch just like a maglite switch (positive), but it didn't work out very well. I imagine using it as a negative and using the "C" clip (snap ring) would work out ok.

Go to Digikey and do a search for Judco push button and you should see what they carry. There are long shaft and short shaft (I use the short) and there are different amp ratings too. They are all the same basic design and dimensions. You will see what I mean when you go there.

Judco

550PB-ND SWITCH PUSHBUTTON SPST 10A 14V
549PB-ND SWITCH PUSHBUTTON SPST 3A 125V

Short shaft, No wire leads, just two tabs.

moderator007 said:

I have a question Old-lumens. When you use a judco switch how do you keep the switch assembly in place in the light and what do use for a ground. The ground is normal with a set screw thats accessed through the switch hole. I really like the judco switch idea. Which judco switch did you use.

Click to expand...

Hopefully I'm not stepping on any toes here, but I'd like to help out with this one. The ground in a maglite switch is not actually part of the switch itself (it is however contained in the housing). The switch just passes the battery positive connection to the bulb and the bulb is always grounded to the set screw. What OL has done here is sandwiched the ground between the heat sink and the flashlight body. If you look at the picture with the driver on the bottom of the heatsink you will see the ground wire on the right hand side.

Edit: I forgot add that I really admire OL's mods. To me they show something that I sometimes think has been lost here at CPF, but actually hasn't. I can't see it all of the time because there is so much going on!

Ctechlite said:

Hopefully I'm not stepping on any toes here, but I'd like to help out with this one. The ground in a maglite switch is not actually part of the switch itself (it is however contained in the housing). The switch just passes the battery positive connection to the bulb and the bulb is always grounded to the set screw. What OL has done here is sandwiched the ground between the heat sink and the flashlight body. If you look at the picture with the driver on the bottom of the heatsink you will see the ground wire on the right hand side.

Edit: I forgot add that I really admire OL's mods. To me they show something that I sometimes think has been lost here at CPF, but actually hasn't. I can't see it all of the time because there is so much going on!

Click to expand...

Nope, no toe stepping. I think I have created quite enough melodrama for quite a while to come.

Ctechlite said:

Hopefully I'm not stepping on any toes here, but I'd like to help out with this one. The ground in a maglite switch is not actually part of the switch itself (it is however contained in the housing). The switch just passes the battery positive connection to the bulb and the bulb is always grounded to the set screw. What OL has done here is sandwiched the ground between the heat sink and the flashlight body. If you look at the picture with the driver on the bottom of the heatsink you will see the ground wire on the right hand side.

Edit: I forgot add that I really admire OL's mods. To me they show something that I sometimes think has been lost here at CPF, but actually hasn't. I can't see it all of the time because there is so much going on!

Click to expand...

I'm wearing steel toe boots so I can take it but maybe I implied the ground was going from the switch to the snap ring, not my intention. Like Ctechlite points out the ground has to go between the body and negative side of the load, bulb or driver. I didn't specify that cause its obvious to me but thanks for clarifying the point Ctechlite, otherwise you would get a volatile hand warmer.

OL, can you show me where you bought that Dremel bit? I can't find one for a dremel, although I have a big one for my drill.
The one for my drill is this one: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00967037000

It works well (the drill bit), but with the way higher RPM on the dremel and the smaller bit, I think I might be able to control it better doing the outside circumference, no way I've got the patience to do it by hand like you!

Sorry Nein. I didn't mean to say you didn't realize where the ground was. I just wanted to point it out for anyone who needed clarification.

And while we are still talking about the ground. I think a way to do it would be to use a set screw to secure the heat sink in place inside the mag body and a ground wire from the driver to the heat sink secured with another screw. I've seen several heat sinks use a set screw to lock position to the inside bore but never a ground wire. It would just require a hole drilled at an angle and tapped through the heat sink.

Ctechlite said:

Sorry Nein. I didn't mean to say you didn't realize where the ground was. I just wanted to point it out for anyone who needed clarification.

And while we are still talking about the ground. I think a way to do it would be to use a set screw to secure the heat sink in place inside the mag body and a ground wire from the driver to the heat sink secured with another screw. I've seen several heat sinks use a set screw to lock position to the inside bore but never a ground wire. It would just require a hole drilled at an angle and tapped through the heat sink.

Click to expand...

Yes definitely better than my suggestion, if you you have the tools to lock the heatsink to the body with a setscrew, a drill and tap, wait I have those, DOH
By the way McGizmo used a screw to secure the ground on the Pelican M6 Module back in the day