Good Single AA Multimode Flashlight

sdrowkcaB

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 19, 2012
Messages
15
Hello everybody Im new to the forum and somewhat new to flashlights. Ive been looking at a lot of lights and so far the Nitecore D11.2 has interested me the most.



1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?


__x__I will be mail-ordering or buying online, so this doesn't matter.


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :)

__x__Less than $50. More is fine but under $100.


3) Format:

__x__I want a flashlight.


4) Flashlight-specific format/size:

__x__Every day carry small (2-4 inches). A little bigger is fine.


5) Emitter/Light source:

__x__LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)


6) Manufacturer:

__x__I want to buy a light from a traditional mass producing manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.


7) What battery type do you want to use?

__x__AA


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is impossible).

__x__I want to walk around an unlit rural area (50-150 lumens).
__x__I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).


9) Throw vs. Flood: At what distance will you be most likely to use this light? Select all that apply.

__x__Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
__x__5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
__x__30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)


10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum output).

__x__90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)


11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.

__x__Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
__x__Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).


12) Switch Type and location (choose all that apply):

__x__I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
__x__I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
__x__I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

__x__I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
__x__I want a strobe mode. (Blinks to show location.)


14)Material/Finish/Coating

__x__Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today's flashlights). Id prefer this but its not necessary.


15) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any below.

__x__Pocket/belt clip
A moonlight mode or a really dim low.
 
Last edited:

Outdoorsman5

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
1,310
Location
North GA Mountains
Welcome to CPF.

I'd recommend the Quark AA (takes one AA battery) with the regular UI. This light is currently on the top 10 Flashaholic "Must Have" list for a reason.....great light. (Here's a link to the the top 10 list - http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ot-Must-Have-quot-List-Cast-your-vote!-PART-2) The Quark AA can run on an alkaline battery, lithium battery, NiMH rechargeable, and really excels on a 3.7v rechargeable 14500 Li-ion battery (produces the same output as 2 AA batteries...nice.)

For more output (without getting into Li-ion rechargeables) I'd recommend the Quark X AA2 (takes two AA batteries) with the "Regular" UI. The quarks are lego-able with each other. The head, body, & tails are interchangeable with each light. So, you could buy the Quark X AA2 and a Quark AA BODY to go along with it. This would allow you to use either one or two AA batteries by swapping out the body of the light. Sorry my recommendation is a little over your $50 budget, but would be worth it to me.

There are better quality lights out there for more money, but the Quarks are my favorite mid-range lights. Other mid-range brands to consider are Sunwayman, Fenix, & Zebralight. Better quality would be Sure Fire lights & HDS lights.

Good Luck.
 

sdrowkcaB

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 19, 2012
Messages
15
Thanks for the recommendation and the list, I like that Quark AA but I think Ill have to check out the other lights on that list before I make up my mind. I wish I had enough money to buy them all lol... maybe some day. Also do you or anybody else reading this know why the Nitecore D10 is so popular? Is it really that much better than the D11/11.2? Thanks again
 

reppans

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 25, 2007
Messages
4,873
I was interested in that D11.2, but the quality control issues posted here (do a search) scared me away. I also thought about the ramping thing and decided that I didn't like it on my Black Daimond lights as you always had to wait for it, as opposed to just click through quickly.

Had a Quark, which I always loved, and ultimately decided to get more. Lego'd an X with a 14500 as Outdoorsman mentioned above, and think it's going to be hard to beat ~300 lumens highs & 200+ hours runtime on moonlight, from a light this size.
 

Mag-man

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Messages
122
If you can stand 2 AA's, check out a Mini Maglite Pro+. 245 lumens hi, 65 lumen low, strobe, s.o.s., lock out. About $40. I'm waiting for colors other than black to show up... I used to build 140 lumen 2AA (orig.) Mini Mags with the Terralux Mini Mag upgrade but I'm waiting for a grey or green Mini Mag Pro+ before buying another lite. Available in black only online currently.
 

sdrowkcaB

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 19, 2012
Messages
15
Thats kind of disappointing to hear about the D11.2 but theres still something about it that makes me want it. That Maglite seems nice but its a little too big, Im looking for something I can keep in my pocket. If the single AA quark was a little brighter it would be perfect for me. Again thanks for all the recommendations everybody I really appreciate it.

Is the pocket clip on the quarks removeable? The only thing I found about it was someone breaking it in the process of trying to remove it. Also does the Sunwayman V10A have strobe?
 
Last edited:

reppans

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 25, 2007
Messages
4,873
^^ I agree with that, except that Zebralight is no exception. I have an H51w that is supposed to be 172lm, but it doesn't appear any no brighter (ceiling bounced test) than my QAA X (115) and my QAA^2 S2 (180) is much brighter. This on Eneloops. I love the Zebralight too (another good suggestion for the OP), but its stated lumens is just a disappointment.

Oh yeah, the Quarks clip is both removeable and reversible, not to mention pretty tough.
 

reppans

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 25, 2007
Messages
4,873
High is 115, max doesn't add anything on 1xAA, so I don't bother tightening the bezel on my regular version.

(err, I mean before getting a 14500)
 
Last edited:

Outdoorsman5

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
1,310
Location
North GA Mountains
....Im looking for something I can keep in my pocket. If the single AA quark was a little brighter it would be perfect for me. Again thanks for all the recommendations everybody I really appreciate it.

Is the pocket clip on the quarks removeable? The only thing I found about it was someone breaking it in the process of trying to remove it. Also does the Sunwayman V10A have strobe?

All of the single AA lights are about the same brightness on a single crappy alkaline battery. I own several, and have found this to be true. The zebralights (SC51 or H51 or SC80) are the brightest when using a single rechargeable NiMH battery like an eneloop. But here's why the Quark AA is on the top 10 list - when using a 14500 rechargeable Li-ion (size of a AA battery but is 3.7v instead of 1.5v) the output is absurd on max. It's 280 or maybe more lumens in this small light. Plus the runtimes on a single Li-ion are quite good as well. Using an "AW" brand 14500 on max I got 58 minutes; on high I got 2 hours. I have not tested the other outputs using the new XML LED, but did do a test on the older R5 LED. With the R5 LED & using a 14500 battery I got 11 hours on medium & about 50 hours on low....didn't test moonlight. I'd bet that the new XML LED would be pretty close to the R5 in runtimes.

The light was designed to use these higher voltage batteries, but are not mentioned much in the right up on 4sevens' website. They are trying to market to the masses more than folks like us, and I think it would confuse people too much that didn't understand or know much about Li-ion batteries....even though we are all using Li-ion batteries regularly in our cell phones, laptops, ipads, cameras, camcorders, & many many other devices.

The Quark AA is also one of the smallest & lightest single AA lights that also has a clicky switch that's out there. There are smaller ones, but they have a twisty switch which I don't care for in my go to edc light. I'm always on the lookout for a good quality light like this that's smaller or more lightweight with a good forward clicky switch, and there's not one out there....not one with all the features the quark has. The zebralights are smaller & have a clicky, but the AA version needs a few improvements before I'll edc one of those again.

The quark is lego-able with the other quarks. Its lego-ability allows you to customize the light very easily by buying accessories from 4sevens. I have the deep carry pocket clip on mine which I love. It rides lower & more securely in my pocket with hardly a chance of getting lost. Yes I've read where some folks have broken their clip, but they must have been being careless with it cus I've taken mine off & on several times with no problems. I was careful though, and believe any clip this size could be broken no matter who the manufacturer is.

There's also three different clicky switches to choose from - reverse clicky (can tail stand but does not have momentary on), forward clicky (has momentary on but cannot tail stand), and the turbo forward clicky (has momentary on and can tail stand)...I don't like the turbo forward clicky much (I have to reposition my thumb every time to get it to click), and don't care for reverse clickies at all. My quark has the regular UI which comes with a reverse clicky. I bought the forward clicky for it, and prefer this switch by far.

There are two different UI's to choose from - "Regular" & "Tactical":

The "Regular" UI is a user interface where you cycle through each output & works like this -
Head Tight - max then strobe
Head Loose - moonlight, then low, then medium, then high, then SOS, then beacon.....this loop repeats itself as you cycle through.

The "Tactical" UI does not cycle, and you program the TWO output modes - head tight & head loose. You have all 8 output & blinky choices to choose from, and it only takes 20 seconds to program each setting. For instance my wife's Quark AA Tactical is programmed like this - Head tight = max, and Head Loose = medium. She prefers this UI because it's simple....just high & low. I prefer the the Regular UI because I like having all output options available.

Finally, I & others really like the ergonomics of the quark AA. I have found that single CR123 lights are too small for my hand to use for extended periods of time, and 2 x AA lights & 2 x CR123 lights are too big to edc. The quark AA is just about right.
 
Last edited:

sdrowkcaB

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 19, 2012
Messages
15
Wow thanks for the super detailed post Outdoorsman5. I think you guys have me sold on the Quark AA and Ill probably get the Nitecore too just because I like the way it looks lol. Hopefully there wont be any problems with it.
 
Last edited:

Outdoorsman5

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
1,310
Location
North GA Mountains
If you do go the Li-ion route then there are a few things you should learn about how to treat them. Go to http://batteryuniversity.com/ to learn more. When buying Li-ion batteries stick with trusted brands such as AW or Redilast. I would not trust other brands. Get a good charger for it too. 4sevens sells everything you'd need including AW bateries & a charger. I've been using their charger for 4 years, and it's performed well. I check the voltage of my batteries before & after charging, and the charger has done what it's supposed to do every time.

If you buy the Quark AA you could save some money by just buying it in its current form which comes with an R5 LED. To get the XML LED though you'd have to buy the Quark X AA2 and also get a Quark AA body to go with it. (FYI...don't be tempted to put 2 Li-ion batteries in the AA2 body. It would be too much voltage, and you'd blow the LED.) 4sevens doesn't sell the Quark AA with the XML head....I guess because the runtimes would not be that great using an alkaline battery. Again, they are selling to the masses.

The XML has some other improvements that have not been mentioned above which in my opinion make it worth it. The older models (R2, R5, & S2 LED's) had a problem with "pre-flash" where the light would blast out a bright flash (200 lumens) for an instant when turning the light on in moonlight mode or low...kind of annoying. The XML has fixed this & only has a small pre-flash that is hardly noticeable (maybe 1 lumen). Also, the reset on all the quarks with the Regular UI has been sporadic on all modes in the past when using Li-ions. For instance, if you have the light in medium & turn it off then you have to wait anywhere from 8 seconds to 15 seconds for the light to reset back to the beginning when using Li-ion batteries. If using alkaline or NiMH then this is not a problem. The XML is set at 4 seconds no matter what battery type you are using....much better & more predictable.

Finally, the Neutral version (color of the beam) is the best in my opinion & looks more natural. The cool white version is brighter, but not by much.
 

sdrowkcaB

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 19, 2012
Messages
15
Cool, more stuff for me to think about (not being sarcastic lol) So far I like the tactical version. I guess its a good thing its sold out right now it will give me some more time to think about the batteries.
 

reppans

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 25, 2007
Messages
4,873
Question Outdoorsman,

What is the protection cut-off voltage on the AW14500 and how low do you typically like to run it down to before charging? Then how long does it take to charge fully on the 4/7s charger? Thanks, I'm a Li-ion noob and just got my stuff from them (first charge currently in the light).
 

StarHalo

Flashaholic
Joined
Dec 4, 2007
Messages
10,927
Location
California Republic
What is the protection cut-off voltage on the AW14500 and how low do you typically like to run it down to before charging?
You should never run a li-ion down until it cuts off - think of the battery protection like the airbags on a car, it's there "just in case". Be sure you thoroughly review the safety and handling procedures for li-ion cells.
 

reppans

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 25, 2007
Messages
4,873
So that's why I'm asking... I need a reference point. I'd rather not have to top these batts off after only using 25% of the capacity. I'd like to know what voltage is "empty" so I can get a feel when I need to charge (say after using 60% or so). I can spot check with a multimeter.
 

Outdoorsman5

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
1,310
Location
North GA Mountains
Question Outdoorsman,

What is the protection cut-off voltage on the AW14500 and how low do you typically like to run it down to before charging? Then how long does it take to charge fully on the 4/7s charger? Thanks, I'm a Li-ion noob and just got my stuff from them (first charge currently in the light).

I think it is 2.5v. I've read that some older cells have a higher cutoff (some 2.7v & some at 3.0v), but I'm pretty sure my AW's are 2.5v. I've ran two of my 14500's down to the point of cutoff, and have done this with one of my 18650's & one of my RCR123 AW batteries. I don't like doing it, but was interested in how some of my lights would perform. I've also done it by accident. My AW cells do not seem to have incurred any damage, and are still working fine. According to the experts though, it is not recommended to run a Li-ion to the point of cut-off very often.

The manufacturer is panasonic I believe, and they recommend that you do not run their batteries down below 2.5v, but also state that it is safe to run them down to 2.5v. FYI - if you ever have a cell that drops below 2.0v for more than a week then you need to retire the battery (according to batteryuniversity.com). Some folks like to get their battery on the charger before it drops below 3.0v, so they can hopefully extend the battery life. I've read that this works. Also, when not in use I run my Li-ion batteries down to around 40% capacity which is around 3.8v. This is the recommended voltage for long-term storage. Since I have so many I find this to be necessary.

I'd say 99% of the time I keep the cells that I use regularly topped off....which is the huge advantage of rechargeables. (I don't miss the days when I only carried primary batteries, and would walk around sometimes with only half capacity or worse.) Also, I rarely see one of my batteries below 3.0v mostly because I keep my eye on em.
 

Outdoorsman5

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
1,310
Location
North GA Mountains
So that's why I'm asking... I need a reference point. I'd rather not have to top these batts off after only using 25% of the capacity. I'd like to know what voltage is "empty" so I can get a feel when I need to charge (say after using 60% or so). I can spot check with a multimeter.

Don't worry about topping off your Li-ion batteries. They like being used & being topped off regulary. They don't like to be stored for a long period of time over 4.1v though. But, if they are in use then there is no issue with running them down even a little & then topping them off. If my battery in my edc drops below 4.0v then I tend to go ahead & top it off. This has no ill affects on a battery that is being used somewhat regularly, so don't be afraid to charge em.
 
Top