Copper E-series drop-in.... XML-style

This has been a long time in the making, but finally, thanks to mikesantor, who risked an E-series head by drilling out the reflector hole, I am able to show off Mike's E1E with XML U2 drop-in.







In order to fit the XML emitter in the head, the reflector hole was drilled to enlarge the diameter to 9/32", allowing me to make a heatsink with a big enough post diameter to hold the emitter. Once I figured out how to make a PCB that would fit soldering pads in the limited space left on top, we were in business, but not before having to re-work the depth of the driver pocket (oops). I'm really impressed with how it turned out.

Specs:

Driver:
2.8amp 8x7135 driver with custom programmed uC to give a moonlight mode in addition to the 3 stock modes

Emitter: Cree XML U2 flux bin, 1C tint

Heatsink/PCB: copper heatsink with custom pcb that is only 0.010" thick, with a hole under the emitter to allow direct soldering of emitter to copper heatsink

Host: E1E bored by PrecisionWorks to fit 18mm cells, and reflector opening drilled out to 9/32" diameter

I will let Mike give performance specifics, I'm biased when it comes to the performance of the light. Suffice to say I'm glad Mike put me up to this by drilling his own E-series head, as I was too scared to do something like that for fear that the reflective surface would be damaged. It turned out fine in his hands.

Pics are poor quality and rushed, I will try to get some better ones up if I can, or let Mike get some good ones to post.

A couple more pics in case anyone was interested in the bottom of the drop-in, and I also included a ceiling bounce to give some idea of output.

It's a floody beam to be sure, but surprisingly good considering the shallow reflector meant for an incan source.




Control shot for ceiling bounce


2.8amp output level running AW IMR 18350

Nice job. How much extra depth was required for the 18350 to fit and have the head still screw on?

I have one of KuKu's drop-ins and it is too short for an 18350 to fit.

Cheers,
Nova

The driver sits quite recessed in the heatsink, and since this driver has a positive contact spring, which ended up almost flush with the bottom of the heatsink, the tip of the cell can actually compress the spring and project into the heatsink a small amount. The fit is snug but the head screws all the way down. With a flat bottomed driver you would have to remove the driver and machine the heatsink a bit deeper.



To answer your question directly, I don't know how much extra space is needed, as this driver is different on the bottom. I can try to get some measurements to give you some idea. For reference, my heatsinks are 0.350" from the lip to the bottom, and the spring just barely showing in the pic can only compress about 0.030", so if you measure your heatsink from the lip to the bottom with calipers it should give you an idea of how much more room you need. Is there a solder bump on the bottom you could remove? That might do it.

Bottom of the dropin is a flat contact board (presumably the back of the driver), it is actually quite tight with a CR123A, no chance of 18350 fitting, I can barely start screwing the head on. Are you still making/selling these in the custom/modified section?

Edit - nevermind, found your other thread and have posted there.

Cheers,
Nova

I was lucky enough to buy this light from Mike. The amps was too much for the clicky and it ruined them. The first switch was ruined and I put a brand new one in there from an new E2E. That switch also got blasted. However it was fine with a twisty and I was thinking about putting a Mclicky in there. Once I had a twisty in there this thing was a rocket. It was almost as bright as my Surefire C2 with a Solarforce XM-L drop in at less then half the size. Sadly this light got stolen from me at the airport while travelling in Mexico. It was a very sad day.
Any change of making any more ever? I'm surprised this drop in didn't get any more attention.

Fivemega`s 18650 body + an e-head with that insert were the bomb, my Solarfoce head/insert just sucks.

Unfortunately I never got my already ordered insert (xp-g) and have - for some time - skipped ever getting it ...
Someone should consider offering the copper part alone, for anyone to finalize ones own mod. (?)

Where did you get the custom programmed driver?

hellokitty[hk] said:

Where did you get the custom programmed driver?

Click to expand...

Same question here! Very interested