dead fenix ld 10?

So, like the title says, I think my ld 10 is dead. I've had this light since the beginning of 2010, and I've loved it as an edc/work light, but yesterday I pulled it out of my pocket and it turned on then went dim. I figured the battery was dead, so I popped in a fresh eneloop and now it doesn't even turn on (except sometimes it will turn on if I screw the cap on with the switch turned on, but it won't change modes, it just turns off) I checked it with an out of the package energizer battery and same thing.

Has anyone else seen this? Can i get parts to fix it? If its dead I may be in the market for a similar light, but better quality.

Thanks

Look inside the tailcap for the metal switch retaining ring, it has two dimples you can use needle nose pliers and try to tighten that ring.

THANKS! Your a genius. It's back to working as good as ever.

Is it a bad idea to put some kind of weak thread locking compound on the threads inside the tailcap?

dfarm said:

THANKS! Your a genius. It's back to working as good as ever.

Is it a bad idea to put some kind of weak thread locking compound on the threads inside the tailcap?

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I'm sure guys have done that successfully, but I'd be nervous that I would put too much on.
My fix was to just tighten the ring as tight as possible with the needle-nose pliers and then avoid taking the tailcap off. It tends to get loose during battery changes, so I just change from the front. I like to wipe the dust from the front oring anyway, so might as well take the head off to change batteries and wipe the oring at the same time.

I've carried a L2D and LD20 for years, and I believe its dropping them which causes the loosening. 4sevens quark flashlights have the same 2 dimple/holes design. 4sevens sells a tool to specially tighten/untighten the internal piece in the tailcap; if you take that tool and slightly bend the two pieces inward, it will fit a fenix (2 holes are slightly closer), or you can use needle nose pliers if you don't mind scratches.