Projector Project

I acquired an older projector with a working lamp at the moment, however I want to start working on a bright led setup for this...several thoughts comes to mind:

1) my unit is large, so easy to swap to a led setup.
2) I have leftover water cooling from an old computer project.
3) fewer sst-90's or more xm-l.
4) what tint LEDs to give natural lighting.

I would like something bright enough to use in my room without the need to black out my windows or use black curtains, running cooler than the lamp it uses is a plus. Also like to find a way to power on the LEDs when I turn the projector on...I also need to figure out how to adjust the brightness as well.

Here's my projector with an Xbox case to show you the size of the projector...



Any ideas?

I'd say that this does open up the possibilities of using the High-Voltage range, which I've never really investigated? And/or EasyWhite stuff?

RoGuE_StreaK said:

I'd say that this does open up the possibilities of using the High-Voltage range, which I've never really investigated? And/or EasyWhite stuff?

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Could you clarify a little?

Quite some project...

What do the home projector forums say?
Why do you want to make it led?
How many years do you plan using this projector and how many hours a week?

What lightbulb is in it right now and is it dimmable?
Can you open the projector and show how the light is arranged? To see what distance to the first plane you have.

cdrake261 said:

Could you clarify a little?

Click to expand...

I don't have any clue as to what would work best, I was just saying that as it's mains powered then you aren't restricted to your typical 3-ish volt emitters used by the vast majority of CPFers; Cree as a range of "High Voltage" emitters that need around 46V, I assume there's a reason they exist, but haven't looked into them properly as it's well outside of the voltage range I use.
I think the Easy White range is supposed to provide better colour consistency, but again I haven't had the need to investigate them. Just throwing out a few more possibilities so you don't get trapped in the typical flashlight emiters.
Then there's the array emitters like the MT-G2, but I don't know if they would/could have a negative effect on the projected image.

Walterk said:

Quite some project...

What do the home projector forums say?
Why do you want to make it led?
How many years do you plan using this projector and how many hours a week?

What lightbulb is in it right now and is it dimmable?
Can you open the projector and show how the light is arranged? To see what distance to the first plane you have.

Click to expand...

Ill get back to you when I get to my desktop, easier to type on it than my phone...

RoGuE_StreaK said:

I don't have any clue as to what would work best, I was just saying that as it's mains powered then you aren't restricted to your typical 3-ish volt emitters used by the vast majority of CPFers; Cree as a range of "High Voltage" emitters that need around 46V, I assume there's a reason they exist, but haven't looked into them properly as it's well outside of the voltage range I use.
I think the Easy White range is supposed to provide better colour consistency, but again I haven't had the need to investigate them. Just throwing out a few more possibilities so you don't get trapped in the typical flashlight emiters.
Then there's the array emitters like the MT-G2, but I don't know if they would/could have a negative effect on the projected image.

Click to expand...

Didnt think any about these, I'll have to do some more research...

Haven't measured but this is a peek inside...

Hi!

I'm also working on a LED projector.
From my experience I can recommend you to avoid large LEDs (i.e. 30W).
I already tried that but it's almost impossible to focus light from a 30 die LED into a 6 cm square when lit from 1 meter.

I got much better results from a CREE XM-L T6 (currently giving out only ~3.3W, trying to solve that problem in another thread).

I can post pictures of my build or give additional explanation if anyone's interested.

midori said:

Hi!

I'm also working on a LED projector.
From my experience I can recommend you to avoid large LEDs (i.e. 30W).
I already tried that but it's almost impossible to focus light from a 30 die LED into a 6 cm square when lit from 1 meter.

I got much better results from a CREE XM-L T6 (currently giving out only ~3.3W, trying to solve that problem in another thread).

I can post pictures of my build or give additional explanation if anyone's interested.

Click to expand...

Im interested...is a single XM-L bright enough?

Hi, I'm currently using an xm-l powered lcd projector for my pc screen and to watch dvds. I first used an mc-e a few years back but have since upgraded it, theres a few initial pics in this thread http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?238962-LCD-Projector-light-LEDs-HID-light Since fitting the xm-l I've now managed to get up to 86 lux on a 40" screen. Overall very happy with it and the colours are ok too! I can see the screen with the lights on or curtains open aslong as it isn't too bright outside. Led, driver and lenses were all sourced from DX.
Electrodacus originally inspired my project, he has some good videos posted but sadly the original thread at lumenlabs has dissappeared recently. http://video-projector.computer-4u....-3xlcd-lamp-replacement-25-lumen-720p-part-2/

Paul Baldwin said:

Hi, I'm currently using an xm-l powered lcd projector for my pc screen and to watch dvds. I first used an mc-e a few years back but have since upgraded it, theres a few initial pics in this thread http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?238962-LCD-Projector-light-LEDs-HID-light Since fitting the xm-l I've now managed to get up to 86 lux on a 40" screen. Overall very happy with it and the colours are ok too! I can see the screen with the lights on or curtains open aslong as it isn't too bright outside. Led, driver and lenses were all sourced from DX.
Electrodacus originally inspired my project, he has some good videos posted but sadly the original thread at lumenlabs has dissappeared recently. http://video-projector.computer-4u....-3xlcd-lamp-replacement-25-lumen-720p-part-2/

Click to expand...

Do you need to buy another lens to make this work?

I've used a 28mm lense as a collimator and a 66mm main lense. I found it best to position the collimator about 2-3mm from the led and then adjusted the 66mm lense until I got the highest lux reading on screen. I would certainly try your current lense first tho. Use a decent led torch you can remove the lense from for some initial tests?

Paul Baldwin said:

Hi, I'm currently using an xm-l powered lcd projector for my pc screen and to watch dvds. I first used an mc-e a few years back but have since upgraded it, theres a few initial pics in this thread http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?238962-LCD-Projector-light-LEDs-HID-light Since fitting the xm-l I've now managed to get up to 86 lux on a 40" screen. Overall very happy with it and the colours are ok too! I can see the screen with the lights on or curtains open aslong as it isn't too bright outside. Led, driver and lenses were all sourced from DX.
Electrodacus originally inspired my project, he has some good videos posted but sadly the original thread at lumenlabs has dissappeared recently. http://video-projector.computer-4u....-3xlcd-lamp-replacement-25-lumen-720p-part-2/

Click to expand...

Hi! Could you please list exact components you're using (LED, driver, LENS) and post new pics of your build?
I'm also doing a CREE XM-L T6 build but getting pretty bad results mostly because I'm only getting 0.8A current on emitter (insted of 3A) so I'm really interested in driver you're using. Also I've gotten excellent results with only 50mm lens, I'm getting 15x15cm sqare from ~2m distance.

Just one xm-l is all you guys are using? How much difference would a sst-90 be over an XM-l?

Paul Baldwin said:

I've used a 28mm lense as a collimator and a 66mm main lense. I found it best to position the collimator about 2-3mm from the led and then adjusted the 66mm lense until I got the highest lux reading on screen. I would certainly try your current lense first tho. Use a decent led torch you can remove the lense from for some initial tests?

Click to expand...

Can we get part numbers?

I'm afraid my camera battery is dead and I can't afford a new one at the mo. I used the 6-18v 3000mA DX driver, XM-LT60 1000LM LED White Light Emitter with 18mm Base(2.9~3.5V) Glass Optics for Flashlights (28mm) 66mm*24mm 2~90-Degree 99% Transmittance Glass Optic. I used a power supply from a gutted mini-fridge to supply the led and a pc heatsink as cooling overkill, similiar to the one in the thread I posted.
Your results with the 50mm lense are comparable with mine by the sounds of it

SKU 13618
SKU 5297
SKU 54704
SKU 57779

cdrake261 said:

Just one xm-l is all you guys are using? How much difference would a sst-90 be over an XM-l?

Click to expand...

Yes one xm-l only. You need as narrow a light beam as possible AFAIK. An Xr-e would be better if you could push it to 3 or 5 amps.

Paul Baldwin said:

I'm afraid my camera battery is dead and I can't afford a new one at the mo. I used the 6-18v 3000mA DX driver, XM-LT60 1000LM LED White Light Emitter with 18mm Base(2.9~3.5V) Glass Optics for Flashlights (28mm) 66mm*24mm 2~90-Degree 99% Transmittance Glass Optic. I used a power supply from a gutted mini-fridge to supply the led and a pc heatsink as cooling overkill, similiar to the one in the thread I posted.


Your results with the 50mm lense are comparable with mine by the sounds of it

SKU 13618
SKU 5297
SKU 54704
SKU 57779

Click to expand...

I've got exactly the same parts except for the driver. Could that be the reason why I'm not getting 3A but only 0.8A of current?
I've been using buck converter, Li-Po battery and 3.3V PSU rail but couldn't get more that 1A of current no matter what.
I'm really getting desperate

I'm strongly considering an sst-90 possibly, I want my light to be bright

cdrake261 said:

I'm strongly considering an sst-90 possibly, I want my light to be bright

Click to expand...

As I said before, it's not the problem of brightness but focusing light from multiple dies in such a narrow beam is very very difficult.
You have to be able to achieve 6x6cm light square from 1m distance. Everything outside of that square is wasted light because the light has to pass through 3 LCD screen which are roughly 0.5'' in diameter.