Tactical style momentary switch for E1B?

Rob Babcock · Jun 1, 2013

Okay, I tried to search, I swear! But flashlight fan though I am, some of the technical stuff is a bit over my head! So let me just come out and ask, what is out there for a tailcap that would add the momentary-with-tighten-for-constant operation to replace the 2-mode clicky of the standard E1B?

Here's the deal; for years my E1B has been my favorite light, and a big part of that is because of the switch mode. I always liked that it always came on in FULL POWER mode, with the ability to access the LOW POWER mode with a second click. But as I use my Surefire Z combat light I'm beginning to appreciate the ability to use the HIGH setting intermittently without accidentally getting the low power. I see that the EB1 has the mode I would like (lightly press for LOW, all the way for FULL, is that correct?) with the ability to tighten to lock. I'll probably get one eventually since 1) it's brighter and 2) as one of my networking instructors told me, "You gotta go with the new." But I don't wanna drop the cash right now, and I'd like to convert my otherwise wonderful E1Bs to this mode of operation.

So what, if any, part would give me the switch that's LOW with a light push, HIGH when depressed all the way, and CONSTANT when tightened?

And short of this, is there a tactical/momentary/constant-when-tightened that would fit the E1B that would give my just HIGH, no LOW?

Thanks! Sorry if this is a retread...

Rob Babcock · Jun 1, 2013

Wow! 107 views and not even a guess? Doesn't anyone have any idea what might work?

FPSRelic · Jun 2, 2013

I don't think there'd be any cheap way of doing what you want. Simply putting the type of switch that's on the eb1/l1/lx2 onto the e1b will not replicate the tactical behaviour of those lights. On the first press no matter how hard you press you get high, on the second press you get low. At least, that's what happened for me when I put the head of my e1b onto the body of my eb1. I would dare say that it's all to do with the electronics in the head of the light.

archimedes · Jun 2, 2013

Rob Babcock said:
Wow! 107 views and not even a guess? Doesn't anyone have any idea what might work?

Sorry, I actually planned to reply, but the answer to your question is a bit complicated ....

Yes, it is possible. No, it would be neither easy nor inexpensive.

If you are set on modding this, I would suggest contacting member vinhnguyen54 and discussing exactly what you want .... He should be able to replace the driver, but you would need to still source the "tactical" tailswitch.

stevieo · Jun 2, 2013

eb1 has a similar switch. not a clicky. "tactical switch without shroud". see sf site for eb1. I don't know about e1b fit. contact sf.

Rob Babcock · Jun 2, 2013

Thanks, guys. I have wondered if the cap from an EB1 would fit my E1Bs; looks like it should. So far the tailcap isn't listed as being available from Surefire but probably will be eventually.

Machete God · Jun 2, 2013

The simple answer is you cannot get your E1B to work the way you want it to - not without extensive modding (as in electronics replacement) as suggested by member 'archimedes' in a post above, followed by having to source a two-stage tailcap that will work on the E1B body (a very hard to find McE2S will fit the bill).

IIRC from the EB1 discussion thread (or perhaps the review from 880arm), the tailcap from the EB1 will screw onto your E1B, but it will NOT make electrical contact and thus won't work.

Recommendation? Buy an L1 (which is two-stage and works exactly like you want) or save up for the EB1T. You can even use the EB1T head with your E1B body to get the click-first-for-high-click-again-for-low mode of operation, effectively turning it into an EB1C. The EB1 has electronics that allows it to differentiate between a 2-stage tailcap and a clicky tailcap, thus the dual role it is capable of playing.

Z-Tab · Jun 2, 2013

It would probably be cheaper to buy an EB1T than it would be to find a McE2S and have it installed in your E1B tailcap. And that isn't even addressing the cost of having the electronics in the head of the E1B completely redone.

If you want tactical momentary, your best option right now is to buy an EB1T. If you want something cheaper, L1 prices have gone down a bit and used LX2s can be found for under $100 fairly regularly.

880arm · Jun 2, 2013

Machete God said:
. . . IIRC from the EB1 discussion thread (or perhaps the review from 880arm), the tailcap from the EB1 will screw onto your E1B, but it will NOT make electrical contact and thus won't work . . .

That's correct. The tail of the EB1 is different than that of any other E-series lights with the section containing the tailcap threads being extended. This means that although the threads are the same, the threads on the inside of the EB1 tailcap won't reach the threads on a regular E-series body.

I don't know how to explain it but here's what I posted in the other thread.

880arm said:
When looking into the EB1 tailcap the first 1/2" or so is unthreaded, unlike the other E-series tailcaps. As a result, the EB1 body is lengthened at the tail section, thus requiring the longer spring. The threads are the same but the unthreaded section of the EB1 tailcap hits the body of other E-series lights before the threads can engage. A regular E-series tailcap will thread onto the EB1 body but just barely reaches the O-ring and the spring is not long enough to reach the battery.

Maybe some photos will make more sense

Here you can see a comparison of the tail sections of the EB1 and an E2DL. You can clearly see that the EB1 has an extra unthreaded section between the o-ring and the wider part of the flashlight body. Also, the there are more threads on the EB1 body. I would have used an E1B for comparison but I seem to have misplaced mine

This photo shows the E2DL tailcap installed on the EB1. The tailcap threads on just fine but bottoms out long before the spring reaches the battery. The gap between the tailcap and the wider part of the body illustrates where the extra length of the EB1 tailcap comes into play. The EB1 tailcap will "fit" the E2DL but will not engage the threads.

Finally, this photo is an attempt to show the difference inside the battery tubes. Measuring from the end of the body, the E2DL measures 11.6mm to the battery while the EB1 measures 17.7mm

I measured the ID of the EB1 body at 12.86mm at its narrowest point in the tailcap section.

archimedes · Jun 2, 2013

Thanks very much for the explanation and photos, 880arm

One question ... is the overall length of the EB1 significantly more than the E1B ( due to that extra-long "gap" and extra-long spring ) ?

880arm · Jun 2, 2013

archimedes said:
Thanks very much for the explanation and photos, 880arm

One question ... is the overall length of the EB1 significantly more than the E1B ( due to that extra-long "gap" and extra-long spring ) ?

You're welcome

The EB1 is about 1/2" longer than the E1B. It's definitely a noticeable difference.

It took me a short while to get used to it but now my old E1B feels too small unless I use a E2D tail switch on it. Not that it makes the light that much bigger but I feel more secure with my grip.

Rob Babcock · Jun 3, 2013

Thanks to everyone for the assist! What a darned shame, though. I love everything about the E1B, so much so that I have two of them! Undoubtedly I'll pick up an EB1 as well but it's substantially bigger than the old gem it "replaces". The E1B is the perfect size for EDC (for me at least).

Guess I'll live with the minor shortcomings of the E1B and learn to live with the size of the EB1!:shrug::sigh:

Rob Babcock · Jun 3, 2013

Hmmm...taking a different tack, can anyone suggest a light that would be similar to the E1B (LED, 1 x CR123A) but with a momentary-on/twist-for-constant switch? It could be two level or single level, the main thing would be 200-ish lumens, well made and compact.

FWIW, I generally loathe multi-mode lights. I like dead simple, basically on and off. I really like the JETBeam BC lights for this same reason- the button just turns them on and off, twist the head to access high and low. The only minor issue I have with them is that while I like the switch, I have had them turn on in my pocket. I used to EDC a BC10 (until some scumbag at work boosted it out of my jacket pocket!

:thumbsdow) but one night it accidentally turned on in my pocket while I was at the movies. Got pretty hot before I noticed!

ico · Jun 3, 2013

A Surefire L1 or LX2 lumamax would fir

WilsonCQB1911 · Jun 3, 2013

Rob Babcock said:
Hmmm...taking a different tack, can anyone suggest a light that would be similar to the E1B (LED, 1 x CR123A) but with a momentary-on/twist-for-constant switch? It could be two level or single level, the main thing would be 200-ish lumens, well made and compact.

EB1T? You are describing it exactly.

archimedes · Jun 3, 2013

Peak Logan would be another option ....

Rob Babcock · Jun 3, 2013

WilsonCQB1911 said:
EB1T? You are describing it exactly.

Hahaha! Yeah, sort of. I should have mentioned I was hoping to find something more compact. The EB1 is enormous for a light that takes a single CR123A.

Stainz · Jun 6, 2013

I bought my older E1b (80L) years ago, followed by an early E2D LED (120L). The first day I carried the E2D LED, the loose clip allowed it to fall out of my pocket and land on it's tailcap, dinging it. A call to Surefire to buy a replacement tailcap resulted in a free one. I filed the edges even and put the dinged tailcap on the E1b - perfection - it stands on it's tailcap for those middle of the night bathroom calls. My EDC for years. Enter the EB1C - 200L - wow! Noting the silver wear showing on my E1b, I opted for the silver version, specifically, EB1C-A-SL. My only fault - and I knew this before I bought it - with the EB1C is that the tailcap shroud does not fully extend below the rubber switch, making the flashlight unstable when tail standing. I am not sure about the silver color, but thus far it is good. It is 3/8" longer in OAL than my E1b with the E2D LED cap. The E1b, in turn, is ~5/8" longer than the extra Olight T10 (200L on high) I had after Christmas - a great bargain at $30. I leave it on hi - 200L - all of the time. It's no Surefire - but it is bright, small, and light.

JRT

Up All Night · Jun 6, 2013

Simple solution would be to grab another BC10 and lock out the switch when in pocket. Then you can pop in an IMR 16340 for uber-output!
Hesitated to post this, seeing this seems to be headed toward "I want a new light", I can feel the excitement from here!! :devil:

BillSWPA · Jun 6, 2013

This suggestion may or may not meet your needs but I will throw it out just in case . . .

Try to track down a tailcap switch for an older E-series light. These switches are momentary on when slightly (ideally 3/8 turn) loosened and constant on when fully tightened. You would continue to get high mode on the first activation, whether by twisting or using the button. You could still get low mode by turning the light on, off, and on again within 2 seconds. The only difference is that you would avoid the possibility of getting constant on when you want momentary, which would be advantageous if you find yourself in low at the wrong time. You could get back to high more quickly without the clicky switch.

Tactical style momentary switch for E1B?

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