HDS EDC Tail Standing Fix (56k Beware)

eightbitpotion

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Jul 24, 2010
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So I've been getting my clicky back in EDC shape, and was trying to figure out a fix so I could tail-stand. While looking online for new parts, I decided to see what I could do with the stock part, and figured out a simple solution that is way better for tail-standing and instant tactical feedback than how they're sent out new. While I originally did this for tail-standing, I am more impressed with the FEEL of the switch with this, because it removes all travel/play from it. This only takes a minute to try, and is reversible to anyone that simply doesn't like it. Sorry for the terrible picture in advance....

So you start off with the normal light....

IMG_20130608_231746.jpg



Then you unscrew the tail cap, and flip it over. Surely everyone has done up to this part before. I used small pliers, but you can also use pointed tweezers. Spread them apart, and unscrew the retaining ring.... also, if your clip spins around, this is the part that causes all of the problems (it isn't fully tightened if your clip spins around)...

IMG_20130608_231832.jpg



When the retaining ring is all the way out, just pull the rubber boot out with it. There's three pieces in all....

IMG_20130608_231944.jpg



Ignore the other pieces, because we are focusing on the rubber boot only. Here's a side view of it; the convex is normally the external part...

IMG_20130608_232029.jpg



Now before you look at the next picture, you need to finish the surface of the rubber however you want. By default, it's very smooth and slick. I didn't like this finish, and wanted something a lot more like the other side of it (soft and porous). I took some 320 grit wet/dry paper to it, but if you just want to remove the gloss, I would go with 400 grit. Be careful, because it works really fast. You'll also want to decide if you want to keep the "nipple" in the middle. I chose to keep this for mid-button reference, but you can easily remove this if it's to your preference. After this is all done, just put the boot back in upside down....

IMG_20130608_232112.jpg


So the new inside should actually contain the old outside. I think that's easy enough to follow. Here's some remaining pictures that show the finished product.

(excuse the nick, I got into a knife fight and it was all I had :whistle:)

IMG_20130608_232200.jpg


IMG_20130608_232336.jpg


IMG_20130608_232446.jpg
 
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Imon

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Jul 8, 2010
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I've owned 4 executive-style HDS lights (2 pre-Acme and 2 post-Acme) and none of them have ever had any issues with tail standing in the stock configuration...

Am I alone here? I think if you have issues with tail-standing OP maybe it's just your light.
 

KuanR

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Jan 20, 2012
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Macau S.A.R.
I had one and it also wobbles when I tail stand it. You CAN tail stand it but it definitely wasn't 100% stable. That's a neat solution to fix it
 

eightbitpotion

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Imon said:
Am I alone here? I think if you have issues with tail-standing OP maybe it's just your light.

Well mine tail stood at first, but the more I used it the less it'd stand. When I first got the clicky, I thought I was one of the lucky ones, but it didn't last too long. :/

I am definitely positive that it's a rare thing to own a 100% tail standing clicky in any generation. It's bad enough that Henry has a disclaimer on his site about it.
 
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Mgizler

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Mar 10, 2011
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Great idea. But I'm also one of the ones that has a new 200 clicky with acme threads and it tail stands with no issues or wobble at all. Maybe I got lucky.
and
just to clarify mines not new it's used and abused.
 

Theatre Booth Guy

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Jan 29, 2006
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Michigan, USA
I have 3 HDS lights. The Twisty is great at tailstanding. My old Basic 60 is a great tailstander with the replacement HDS battery tube/switch. My newer pre-acme Clicky has been wobbly from the start. I have flipped the rubber switch cover and even added a bit of coffee filter around the edge of the switch cover so the trapped air could vent. It still wobbles. Maybe some consider the wobble to be a feature? While it is great that the light is really sealed well, I much prefer a light that stands without fear of toppling over with the slightest bump. The official word that I received is that my light was not advertised as being a tailstander... Someday, I hope to get a Rotary and that it will be a tailstander :)
 

broonzbane

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Mar 26, 2011
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Apison, TN
I've owned 4 executive-style HDS lights (2 pre-Acme and 2 post-Acme) and none of them have ever had any issues with tail standing in the stock configuration...

Am I alone here? I think if you have issues with tail-standing OP maybe it's just your light.

You got very lucky! :)

I have a 1st generation rotary and a new cerakote clicky high cri. The rotary wobbles only slightly. The clicky wobbles a LOT.

Does not bother me, as it was not advertised as having that capability.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

Jonnor

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Apr 20, 2010
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Norway
Thank you for the tip, just reversed the rubber boot on my legacy light which was really wobbly.

My immediate response is somewhat mixed. I love the ability to tail stand but the feeling of the clicking is somewhat awkward. I wil try it out for some days before I decide to keep it this way or not. Did not dare to sandpaper the rubber boot just yet, want to be sure I really like the new clicking with no travel.

Once again, thank you for the tip
 

riccardo

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Apr 27, 2010
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208
On my legacy I just used a small syringe (like those for insulin) to suck some air from under the rubber boot. You must be careful not to remove too much air otherwise the rubber boot will be pressing on the switch that will get too sensible.

The hole left from the syringe is extremely thin and seems to keep the vacuum under the boot if too much air is aspirated, so I guess is also watertight in case of mist or rain. To minimize the risk of problems I also put a thick layer of silicone grease under the boot.

Now my HDS is tailstanding without any problems.

But the next one I'll buy will be with raised button, they are marvelous little flashlights but the wobbliness in a design originally thought for tailstanding (clearly) is disturbing me. At HDS they should think about a different rubber boot or, better, a new cap with slightly raised edge (1 mm is enough).
 

Jonnor

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Apr 20, 2010
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After some more testing my suggestion is to loosen about one quarter of a round on the retaining ring in the tail cap. This makes my light tail stand perfectly.

I would think this makes the light a little less water resistant, but for me this is no problem since I never submerge it. I have tested it in the sink at home and that went well. If I were to drop it in water at some point I am hoping the potted electronic would survive even if some water where to get inside.
 
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