Really like the focus feature of my LL TAD Ti Mini but it just wasn't bright enough on my last work trip. Had some parts laying around and decided to tear into it.
The LED is mounted to a plug that sits in the top of the can, the can is mostly filled with epoxy and the driver board itself is attached to the LED MCPB, prying the plug out wrecks this connection the way I did it. The plug is held in by the epoxy and the ground from the driver, it is visible in the lower right of can.
once the ground and epoxy are removed the plug slides in and out no problem
Positive from board is soldered to the copper at bottom of can the touches the positive of the battery, and the negative from batt connects through the body to the can and then to the wire sandwiched between the plug and can to driver.
Used a KaiDomain 6x7135 V2 driver 2.2 amp high set to three level Hi-Med-Low, doubled up on Pos and Neg wires (mine seemed thin)
skipped a couple pics, filled the can with what arctic silver epoxy I had, only enough for 1/2, sandwiched both Neg wires from board between can and plug, tapped plug in lightly, epoxied the MCPB down XM-L2 5000K
results, the narrow beam has artifacts due to the different height of the LED and larger size (expected), not noticeable outside
the wide beam isn't a perfect circle anymore but not bad outside
LL Mini XM-L2 widest beam on left Oveready triple on right both on high 2' from wall, at 2.2 and 16340 the LL isn't a killer but it is a lot brighter!
general construction of LL minis, I added more o-rings to the extra grooves:
swapped the switch boot for a GITD green
Much brighter and more usefully to me with the burst high, doesn't look like there is enough metal behind the tail threads to bore it out to 18mm for 18350's, so I already ordered a 1200 mAmp high GDUP driver and plan to switch to an XP-G2, I think it will focus slightly better with the XP-G and should run longer
Thanks for looking!
The LED is mounted to a plug that sits in the top of the can, the can is mostly filled with epoxy and the driver board itself is attached to the LED MCPB, prying the plug out wrecks this connection the way I did it. The plug is held in by the epoxy and the ground from the driver, it is visible in the lower right of can.
once the ground and epoxy are removed the plug slides in and out no problem
Positive from board is soldered to the copper at bottom of can the touches the positive of the battery, and the negative from batt connects through the body to the can and then to the wire sandwiched between the plug and can to driver.
Used a KaiDomain 6x7135 V2 driver 2.2 amp high set to three level Hi-Med-Low, doubled up on Pos and Neg wires (mine seemed thin)
skipped a couple pics, filled the can with what arctic silver epoxy I had, only enough for 1/2, sandwiched both Neg wires from board between can and plug, tapped plug in lightly, epoxied the MCPB down XM-L2 5000K
results, the narrow beam has artifacts due to the different height of the LED and larger size (expected), not noticeable outside
the wide beam isn't a perfect circle anymore but not bad outside
LL Mini XM-L2 widest beam on left Oveready triple on right both on high 2' from wall, at 2.2 and 16340 the LL isn't a killer but it is a lot brighter!
general construction of LL minis, I added more o-rings to the extra grooves:
swapped the switch boot for a GITD green
Much brighter and more usefully to me with the burst high, doesn't look like there is enough metal behind the tail threads to bore it out to 18mm for 18350's, so I already ordered a 1200 mAmp high GDUP driver and plan to switch to an XP-G2, I think it will focus slightly better with the XP-G and should run longer
Thanks for looking!
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