I have a C3 and a bezel from Oveready with the tool to remove the stock bezel. I searched around and couldn't find any info on how to glue the tubes. I have the correct Norland and tubes BTW I just need to know the correct procedure. Is the best way to tighten the new bezel really with a sandal bottom? TIA
Tritium tube gluing advice needed
- Thread starter nylaw
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Hi nylaw,
I've just finished setting my trits into the same Oveready bezel that you mentioned. You need a way to keep the trit slot level and horizontal. You can use Norland 61 or 81 to set your trits. I use a very small guage needle and syringe (the sort used for insulin injections are perfect). Once you've carefully placed the trit vial into the slot, just syringe in the Norland until the slot is filled. You do not have to worry about the other (inner) opening of the slot. Set it with a 365nm UV curing lamp or flashlight or use the sun and you're good to go.
Some people prefer a two-pass approach - first curing with small amount of Norland to set the vial in place, then a second to fill the slot. Do what suits you.
Have fun!
I've just finished setting my trits into the same Oveready bezel that you mentioned. You need a way to keep the trit slot level and horizontal. You can use Norland 61 or 81 to set your trits. I use a very small guage needle and syringe (the sort used for insulin injections are perfect). Once you've carefully placed the trit vial into the slot, just syringe in the Norland until the slot is filled. You do not have to worry about the other (inner) opening of the slot. Set it with a 365nm UV curing lamp or flashlight or use the sun and you're good to go.
Some people prefer a two-pass approach - first curing with small amount of Norland to set the vial in place, then a second to fill the slot. Do what suits you.
Have fun!
Thanks for the detail. It sounds like I need to do one slot at a time if they need to be level. I have a 110 UV cure light for watch repair work so that should be OK. When you say not to worry about the inner slot can you explain that?
As to the double post. I wasn't getting any answers there so I decided to post it in a more populated area. My bad!
You have to be sure your UV light is between 320nm to 380nm or it will not work. If it does not, simply put it under the sun for a couple of hours, that's a nice, big and free UV light !
This is the one I have but there aren't any specs listed. There isn't even a company name on it. Just MODEL. MD-108A
http://storefront.julesborel.com:80...76890&itm_index=50&orderQty=1&cust_item=LMZ-2
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Thanks for the detail. It sounds like I need to do one slot at a time if they need to be level. I have a 110 UV cure light for watch repair work so that should be OK. When you say not to worry about the inner slot can you explain that?
As to the double post. I wasn't getting any answers there so I decided to post it in a more populated area. My bad!
Don't worry, there's always a whole bunch of us online at any one time... So, your posts will be read. Just be patient.
Yes, installing tritium vials can be very therapeutic.
Do it a slot at a time. Anyway, the slots on the bezel are milled such that the trit vials are visible from both the outside and inside of the bezel. (See photo below). What I meant is that there's no necessity to tape up the smaller inner side window. You do not have to worry about Norland 61 leaking out.
As to whether your curing lamp works, you can always test a tiny drop of Norland. Should set pretty quickly if the wavelength cover is good. Or if you do not want to waste any Norland, you can use a bit to try to fix your trit vial position, whilst testing your lamp. Anyway, Norland 61 is pretty forgiving. So long as it is not fully set, an acetone moistened cloth cleans up most mistakes.
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hawaiianbob
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This is the info I have been looking for. Thanks
