Drop in options for polymer host?

Chris in Idaho · Jun 20, 2014

I'm new here.

I've seen reference a few times to polymer lights not being able to take higher powered drop-ins because they can't dissipate heat the way aluminum lights can. I happen to have two Blackhawk X6-P polymer lights with xenon bulbs, I think they claim 65 lumens. I would like to make them brighter for use on my bicycle at night, what are my options? Is there anything to be gained without melting down the light?

Thanks,
Chris

m4a1usr · Jun 20, 2014

A picture of the lamp assy might assist in helping you make a decision since I am not familiar with what it looks like but just because it has a polymer body doesn't mean your limited to what you have in it now. You can safely use an LED in your light driven up to 650mah. That's what the Malkoff M61 is driven at and the Malkoff web page states it can be used safely in a SF G2 light which is a Polymer based light. BTW welcome to CPF.

Chris in Idaho · Jun 21, 2014

Here is the light.

Chris in Idaho · Jun 21, 2014

m4a1usr;4458554 You can safely use an LED in your light driven up to 650mah. That's what the Malkoff M61 is driven at and the Malkoff web page states it can be used safely in a SF G2 light which is a Polymer based light. BTW welcome to CPF.[/QUOTE said:
Thanks for the welcome! Sorry for my newbish ignorance, but I'm not sure I understand your 650mah. If you mean 650ma, at 6volts that would be 3.9 watts. Isn't that a lot?

m4a1usr · Jun 21, 2014

Don't worry your on your way to learning. And it is addictive!. 650mah is not bad when you think about it. I have a G2 with a custom P60 with a 925mah driver on 2 primaries and while it does have a metal bezel, the body is what see's the most heat and its not even close to over heating the material. The problem with polymer lights is they don't conduct enough heat to keep the drop in cool enough to keep output levels from dropping. Heat is the enemy of LED output. Unlike incandescent or filament type bulbs that have constant output regardless of bulb temperature, LED output drops above a certain temperature and if the light body insulates this heat the LED gets dimmer while still eating up your batteries at the higher consumption rate.

Looking at your pictures you posted it certainly appears to have a standard sized drop in. That size is commonly known as a P60 or a D26. P60 is a Surefire Products reference while D26 just means a 26mm reflector. Both are essentially the same. There are many sources for them and they come from mild to wild. A Malkoff M61 would most likely work in your light. And it is a bench mark to which others are measured by.

välineurheilija · Jun 21, 2014

Actually with the m61 it is recommended not to use more than 15 minutes at a time in plastic lights but the m61L can run for how long the batteries last

From Malkoffs website on the m61:
"Note: This drop-in module was intended to operate at maximum brightness for tactical usage similar to the original setup. Operating the unit for more than 15 continuous minutes in plastic lights may cause damage to the drop-in module. This is not an issue in metal lights or in plastic lights with a metal head. "

Stockhouse13 · Jul 5, 2014

Chris in Idaho said:
I'm new here.

I've seen reference a few times to polymer lights not being able to take higher powered drop-ins because they can't dissipate heat the way aluminum lights can. I happen to have two Blackhawk X6-P polymer lights with xenon bulbs, I think they claim 65 lumens. I would like to make them brighter for use on my bicycle at night, what are my options? Is there anything to be gained without melting down the light?

Thanks,
Chris

The Malkoff 61NL are nice along with the special run of 61L Nichia's from Illumination Supply. You will get about 125 lumens from either and about 6 hours of good runtime, and not melt your light. But why not by a cheap solarforce host for $12 and run 18650 rechargeables?

Blitzwing · Jul 6, 2014

Meh, I have a 2.1A XP-G2 in my Solarforce P1 and run it until it drops back to medium, with no heat issues. A hard driven XM-L would be a different kettle of fish however. For a bike light, IMO a conservatively driven XM-L with an OP reflector would be fine. The cheap Solarforce dropins are pretty conservative but still give plenty of light.

välineurheilija · Jul 7, 2014

Blitzwing said:
Meh, I have a 2.1A XP-G2 in my Solarforce P1 and run it until it drops back to medium, with no heat issues. A hard driven XM-L would be a different kettle of fish however. For a bike light, IMO a conservatively driven XM-L with an OP reflector would be fine. The cheap Solarforce dropins are pretty conservative but still give plenty of light.

Doesn't the P1 have an aluminum body inside the plastic if so it doesn't really count as a polymer light

Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums

mddolson · Jul 8, 2014

I have a similar Pelican 3C cell sabre light. It boasts a wopping 30 lumens on it's zenon lamp.
I selected a similar R2 180 lumen drop-in. I've had to remove the large (outer spring) and machining an aluminum outer ring/disk in it's place.
It will center the module & be the outer contact. Brass would be nice, but I don't have any on hand.

Mike D

cland72 · Jul 8, 2014

I recommend the Malkoff M61L. 175 lumens for 5 hours regulated, with no heat issues in a plastic host.

kosPap · Jul 21, 2014

or my cheaper version
(see sig)

jso902 · Jul 26, 2014

M61L is plenty brought... I think the extra L's by Malkoff down plays how bright these LEDs get.

Drop in options for polymer host?

Chris in Idaho

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m4a1usr

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Chris in Idaho

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