more advanced models=lower run time?

Guys, newb question. Where a certain light is upgraded from Mk1, mk2 over the years, as the max output goes from say 600, 750 to 1000 with each release is run time generally decreasing for max output? Or does improved components/ keep it the same/improve it?
As an example, and only using it as my knowledge of lights is so limited, the armytek viking series. If I had an old stock v2.0 I could get my hands on, do these run longer than the 2.5?

Bottom line here is economics. Translation
More lumens = Sales
simple as that.
Some manufacturers will have say 600 lumens for one hour and few years down the road as led and drivers are more efficient they will make 1200 lumens for one hour. They will not make 600 lumens for 2 hours or 3 hours or what the case may be.
These days that is where most manufactures are. Some don't even include a mid level they only have 2 levels one for 15 lumens other for 600 lumens which I think cut down on the usefulness of the light.

Generally what is happening is, as Cree improves its led,s it releases higher[brighter and efficient] bins. Led flashlights have a current controlled driver, lets say a zebralight sc600 on the highest level it is probably pushing approx 3 amps. So if we compare an older to newer model an old XML U2 might be about 750lms at 3 amps and the latest XML2 puts out well over 1000lmns at the same 3amps.
Brightness sells - more sales.
If they kept the current model viking v3 xpl pegged at 750 lumens it would last a lot longer on high than the old xml model at 750lmns.

It is sorta a mixed bag. Led efficiency does increase in some cases. So you get a increase in lumens and the runtime can stay the same. Also battery tech is getting better, albeit at a snails pace.

okay as I suspected, with new technology they could drop back the lumens and increase the run time but they choose not to in order to keep their place in the space race.

Why yes you can get a 700 lumen torch to run 2 hours. Just put it on low.

Seriously, with a single led 26650 light it is currently possible. Don't forget, you need a quality cell. The battery is gonna be a major player in this game too.

Look up something like the Shadow JM35. That would be one I would love to test run times on with a King Kong battery.

mickb said:

But I will ask, is there a way to combine the increased run time technology with a lower power output, in effect doing just the opposite of what the manfacturers are doing.

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I know I'm very simple in my thinking. Please forgive me.

Can you use a lower available setting? As an example, a light has the potential of 1000lm. Run the light at ~500lm. Wouldn't that do what you suggest? If out in the field, are you able to carry an extra battery or two? What am I missing?

Each of my lights has various settings. I don't use the highest settings but it's nice to have the readily available output when needed. What sort of lights are you using?

My current go to house light is the EC4 and it's run-time is tested using 2600 mAh batteries. I use 3400 mAh batteries which increase the run-time by ~31% This increases the run-time from ~90 minutes to ~117 minutes. If I step down from 1000 lm to a more usable 240 lm, using 3400 mAh batteries, the run-time goes up to almost nine hours. If I want or need more output, I use a more powerful light such as a TM16, which uses four 18650s.

Currently, along with others, I'm waiting for the already announced EC4S to be released. It's suppose to have +2000 lm capability. If using two 18650 batteries, this would expectedly make for a shorter run-time. I'm okay with this point. Can you fill me in on what I'm missing?

Parrot Quack said:

I know I'm very simple in my thinking. Please forgive me.

...
Each of my lights has various settings. I don't use the highest settings but it's nice to have the readily available output when needed....
...

Click to expand...

That is good in theory, but the limited "user interface" makes it difficult. I am new with these high power multi-mode LED flashlights, but I have already learn to hate having to click-click-click and click again to cycle the 5 modes to select the right brightness.

I would love it if the light has a ring switch - 5 position ring so you can turn the ring to a particular spot and the light stay at that setting when power up, or switch quickly. Much like a windshield wiper switch, if you leave it at a particular setting when you turn the car off, but when the car starts, it picks up setting. And, you can switch it to different setting with a single action.

Best is as a ring on the tube with locking. Push the ring forward (toward the light to unlock) a bit and turn: 5 "stop-notched" position SOS - Blink - Low - Mid - High and then without-notch variable brightness depending on how far clockwise you turn. Once you let go, the ring "spring bacK" to the lock position making sure that the setting wont get mess up when the light got juggled around after I put it back into my pocket. That I would pay some hard $ for as long as it doesn't make the tube too fat or too long.

Parrot Quack said:

I know I'm very simple in my thinking. Please forgive me.

Can you use a lower available setting? If I step down from 1000 lm to a more usable 240 lm, using 3400 mAh batteries, the run-time goes up to almost nine hours. If I want or need more output, I use a more powerful light such as a TM16, which uses four 18650s.

Can you fill me in on what I'm missing?

Click to expand...

Well as a newb I would say a step between 1000 and 240lumens? Do these torches have a second power output closer to 66-75% is probably what I mean. However I actually edited my post before anyone posted as I realised I could do more research on this myself and answer my own question. Thanks for your reply though and information on the batteries.