High/Low Beam Lux III mod ala SureFire

I suppose I could call this a L1-KL4 because that is what it looks like on the outside.




Build Details: Click here

However it's more of a deviate than first impressions might reveal. It is a Lux III driven by a DB917, powered by 2x123 cells and the modified two stage switch provides a low of around 75 mA to the LED and the high is the 917 mA. Unlike an earlier L1 mod I did that houses 2xCR2 and will host any 6 volt E series head, this light is in a configuration all its own and does not have the modularity of others. This *thing* is about 1/8" shorter than the stock L4. The A2 and then the L1 convinced me that two levels were better than one. Lately, with more experimenting, this lesson is really taking hold.

Cool mod Don. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
I love my L4, but I'd love it even more if it had a low and high beam.

Peter

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/popcorn.gif Outstanding!

Your work with hi-lo beam in these Surefires is exciting. Hope this darlin' comes up for sale sometime. Keep up the great work, Don.

Britt

How does it work though? Just a ton more resistance? How bright is it at 75ma? ArcAAA or brigther?

IsaacHayes,

The 75 mA is considerably brighter than the Arc AAA! I just did a relative lux test comparing it to a first generation Arc SLS that I have and the Arc read 210 lux and this light in low registered 200 lux. In high, at the same distance (a little over a meter) the lux was 1290 lux.

Don,
This is great!!!
I'm looking forward to seeing what you'll come up with next.

Wow !!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
The bar has been raised once again ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/party.gif
Don rulez !!
bernhard

I have a question here that I can't figure out the answer to on my own, Don. And just in case it is obvious, and I end up looking like a fool, I figured it was my sworn duty to pose the question publicly. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

What was the reason for the two boards in the head? It seems, to my foggy mind, that the DB could have been used as the annode contact instead of adding the axial length of a second board that ONLY supplies the annode? I'm sure I missed something important.

I LOVE this light! The only part I don't love is that *two* expensive lights have to be used to create it. I just recently got comfortable with destroyi...er... modifying ONE expensive light at a time. Ah! The price of progress. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Darell,

I believe it could be done with the single board, similar to the E-can. However, due to the sequence of the build I wasn't comfortable that I would have the converter board potted well enough to aid in the compression load along with the crazy glue holding the PCB in the can. The LED lead wires needed to be fed through the converter as it went in for a final potted fit. This meant that the PCB needed to be free of epoxy in the area of the two LED vias. I got around this by coating everything on the converter but these two areas and I put a bunch of the potting epoxy around the bases of he lead wires where they came out of the heat sink. There is likely enough epoxy in there along with the crazy glue to provide the strength needed in the compression load.

However, since I did have enough room, I opted for the second anode board and it sits down on a shoulder in the can so all compression load is on it and there is none on the converter board itself. I also knew that I might have to fudge with the location, axially, with the anode contact and I felt that this gave me some room if needed and the anode board could have been sacrificed if needed. I wasn't certain of function until it was all said and done. Even then, I found I needed to grind off half of the raised solder blob which I had suspected might be the case. Now that I have built this, I have a good feel for the critical dimensions and certainly there are some options in the "sandwich"

This is really a cool light and I can't wait until dark to check it out. I am pleased with getting it back on the 123 cell platform. However, I think I may still prefer the beam of the PR-T and at least now, I have both versions to experiment with. I certainly prefer the modularity of the 2xCRT in the L1 since that pak can host any 6 volt E series head including a KL4, PR or McLux.

There is another very significant advantage of the PR-T head for me but it's one that a real flashlight manufacturer like SF would likely and understandably stay away from. I am referring to the ease and great function of removing the bezel cap and reflector for an instant artifact free flood beam which can now be had at two brightness levels. You know how I like the flood beams! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

BTW, the last thing to address on these L1 tail caps is a replacement of the plastic switch boot retaining nut. I bet you can guess what *we* want there. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif That's the next fun lathe project for tonight. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[ QUOTE ]
McGizmo said:
...
BTW, the last thing to address on these L1 tail caps is a replacement of the plastic switch boot retaining nut. I bet you can guess what *we* want there. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif That's the next fun lathe project for tonight. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Ahhhhhh.... now that's something I'd never thought could be done, but you continually impress me with your ingenuity Don.

-Jim

[ QUOTE ]
Darell said:
The only part I don't love is that *two* expensive lights have to be used to create it.

[/ QUOTE ]

No, that's the GOOD part! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif HULK SMASH!!!

Don,

Have you tried a stock KL4 on this body? I've been thinking about getting an L1 to try a 5w dual-level mod, but I wasn't sure how to boost the stock L1 circuit. Moving to an in-head circuit seems to avoid that problem, but I'm wondering how the KL4's boost circuit would react to the resistored "low" setting on the L1 switch. I noticed you said a Badboy would work with the 5w in the KL4 - is there a reason (other than standard CPF modder disease) you suggest the BB instead of just leaving the KL4 stock?

Nice Don!

Two levels is too cool /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif .

Larry

Thanks guys.

Tyler,

A L1 modified to carry 2xCR2 will host the stock KL4 and the low mode is real nice. The resistor seems to work well with just about all the combos I have tried it with.

I said a BB in reference to this mod because I had to gut the head completely and build back. The Stock KL4 PCB would not work here due to physical constraints. The anode contact in this mod is just about in the same plane as the ground ring contact for the battery tube. This is NOT compatible with the typical E series configuration.

I did this mod mainly just to see if it could be done. By and large, I am much happier with the other L1 mod hosting the 2xCR2 as it can take any 6V E type head. In fact, I just turned a delrin switch guard for it for tail standing as well as switch protection:






Larry,

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Regardless of size and scale, two level is cool! I look forward to seeing your group project! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Well great gobbledy googley. Thanks for the info Don. All makes sense now, and it wasn't an idiotic question afterall! Good on both of us. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif As you know, I've always been a fan of sitting that annode contact on the *correctly stressed* lip like that. Just something about it that gives me the warm fuzzies. The phrase "bomb-proof" jumps to mind.

While I agree about the modularity aspect of NOT having to mod the head, I still say this complete L4-headed unit is uber-cool. And of course with the *we-guard* (as it will now be known) I can barely keep from hopping around on one foot and then the other. Nice of PK to included that threaded jamb nut for "us." /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I love it. I don't think I could ever do it myself (ah who am I kidding, I'll probably try it anyway once I get a lathe). I wouldn't mind one of those tailswitch guards if you should produce a few.

As Darell said, it's über-cool! I can't think of anything better to sum it up.

I love it too. If you get tired of it and decide to sell it, please let me know.