JAX Z1 modified burning through switches

Hello all,

Thanks for your time and consideration.

I have JAX Z1 that worked great for about a year of heavy use. It was modified by me dropping in a MTG2 led, and a MTN FET driver. I beefed up the wires going to the diode, and added some braided copper to the tailcap spring.

However, once that switch bit the dust, I haven't been able to get it to work again. I swapped the switch for a Omten, when that didn't work I tried a Kan. Still nothing.

Is bit possible I killed the diode or driver?

Are there any switches that can handle that kind of current that are drop in?

And finally, is there anyone here or anywhere that could trouble shoot this light? Or is it more financially viable to buy a new one and modify it?

Thank you all

Have you tried just bypassing the tailcap? Often called the "paper clip" method it simply involves removing your tailcap and with the battery/batteries installed and connecting the light body to the end of the last cell, thereby making a direct connection. If your light works chances are the issue is related to the tailcap. If you get nothing than it's more probable its something in the front end, LED/Driver/Pill/etc. Sounds like you know about lights and their construction so that's a big plus in troubleshooting.

Thank you for that tip. I will try that this weekend to try to narrow the problem down.

There are switches that can handle high drain, but it depends upon how much you are driving using your fet1. I think mine is a 10A switch which is pretty good.

I don't know how much it draws, but it is the brightest flashlight I've ever used. Is there some way to measure that? I'm using the unprotected King Kong cells MTN offers.

I have not investigated, there may be better cells to use in this light.

Does your light work with a paperclip.

Do you have a Fluke DMM

I would estimate your light is driven around 8A. I cannot confirm this without taking lumens/Lux or tailcap measurements. You may find that your switch is being pushed hard or the excess heat build up is effecting your unit.

I would use a single IMR 26650 with your setup or a Keep Power 26650 cell.

If I remember, this Z1 is set up for two cells. I think the diode is a 6V. Can I run a single cell with no issues?

I have a Fluke 8000 (old table top). It should still be calibrated.

I will try the paper clip test this evening and update the thread.

Thanks for all your help

The MTG2 is a 6v emitter so a single cell won't work..

I just attempted to bypass the tail cap. No light, just sparks. Poo

Any suggestions on what to do next?

If the paper clip method doesn't work, then perhaps something else is failing.. Driver or emitter

DellSuperman said:

If the paper clip method doesn't work, then perhaps something else is failing.. Driver or emitter

Click to expand...

Yeah..... Seems like it is rebuild time.Am I correct in understanding you make or designed a switch capable of these kinds of amperage?

DellSuperman said:

If the paper clip method doesn't work, then perhaps something else is failing.. Driver or emitter

Click to expand...

Thank you all for your help! IT LIVES!

The loose connection became obvious once taken apart.

However, I think the diode and dome are delaminating.... It is a much warmer color temp and not quite as bright as it was. I may be replacing it soon.


I need a couple of larger o rings for the lens end....is there a good place to acquire these cheaply?