Solarforce versus Seraph??

Hey guys, I need new hosts for drop-ins, but want to try non-surefire brands. Please let me know your feelings pros and cons on each of these brands since I am completely new to them. thanks!

liteboy said:

Hey guys, I need new hosts for drop-ins, but want to try non-surefire brands. Please let me know your feelings pros and cons on each of these brands since I am completely new to them. thanks!

Click to expand...

I own two Solarforce hosts, one L2P and one L2T. I love them both for their simplicity but the finish on them is inferior to Surefire. I even suspect that they might be made of a softer aluminum, although I have no basis for this other than feel. I especially love the modular nature of them outside of just the P60 lamp format. I can definitely recommend a Solarforce host but I have never seen a Seraph in person so I have no way of comparing the two.

One observation of note: The L2T equipped with a twisty cap is roughly 2-3mm shorter than a Surefire C2, which I also own. The stock clickie that comes on the L2T I have also purchased separately and use it on my newer 6P as I frequently find the OEM twisty a bit too stiff to hold on momentary as long as I prefer to, I may just be getting old...but sometimes it is very uncomfortable.

I have a solarforce l2p but have not tried Seraph. I like the solarforce host, very good anodizing and quality parts. I think the switch on my host is a little stiff but other than that it's great.

Have a seraph on the way, in fact it is in the UK now so maybe next couple of days hopefully and will give impressions. Solarforce offers an excellent value host, quite a bit of choice and 18650 compatible(no boring like the surefire for example). I have a few, L2T and 2 stainless L2T's, P1 and P1D(excellent solid host of higher quality IMO). Then an L2M for a compact 18350 fed host.
L2M


P1D and L2T


stainless L2T's





Works



I am a little fond of stainless for beater/heavy use lights, L2T,T10s and TiS

Hmm, not much seraph love here. The stainless solarforce def looks good. Do I need to change switch for high output engines?

I will get pics and impressions up on the seraph this week liteboy as i will be using in work with a p60vnT mule.

My 2 stainless L2T's , one has a 4000k xp-g2 EDCplus triple in so its fine for that, in work it has the 219C mule(left) Both the other triples are sportacs, nichia 219 and xp-g2(optics removed for a mule)


Not sure of the mule output, but it does not hold 100% some times, however most uses are 15% or 30% output, so not an issue. Might be this actual switch as it seems ok in another host on 100%. iirc they are good for about 3a, however i have put probably double through without issue so far with a CQvn (quad xp-g2).

I have replaced a couple of surefire twisty UI's with mcclicky switches for no reason other than a change. Keep 2 SF's twisty like the m2 with triad tail, the C2 also a twisty. I actually like the old school surefire UI, just breaks it up a little and just works!

Both are fine, and good value for the price ....





Their (clicky) switches are not high-current capable, so you may want to upgrade those parts, if you plan to use high Amp dropins.

I have the Seraph SP-6 and SP-9, as well as several Solarforce hosts. Both brands, in my opinion, are good to go and offer great value. The Seraphs feel a tad bit heavier, but I don't have scales to confirm that. Fit and finish is good. As for aesthetics, I have a fondness for the Surefire 6P, so I'm happy with a Solarforce L2 but most would consider the Seraphs to offer classier styling.

For a budget, non-Surefire host, I don't think you can go wrong with either brand. They are comparably priced, so it really comes down to personal preference.

liteboy said:

Hmm, not much seraph love here. The stainless solarforce def looks good. Do I need to change switch for high output engines?

Click to expand...

I don't have the stainless SF host, but I have some aluminium ones.

I would imaging the SS host is friggin heavy... not the sort of thing to put in a pocket. Also worse thermal properties than Alu too.

Solarforce seem to claim their switches are rated at 3amp. In practice they will probably work above this however. Depends what sort of driver/led and battery combo you plan on running.

The switch is held in with a screw in retaining ring, so easy to swap out if it plays up. Although probably not worth doing unless it becomes an issue.

archimedes said:

Both are fine, and good value for the price ....

Their (clicky) switches are not high-current capable, so you may want to upgrade those parts, if you plan to use high Amp dropins.

Click to expand...

My vote goes to the Solarforce I mean I have ordered one.

The stainless L2T is heavy compared to the alloy mr drumstick as you say. Also if it has a custom chunk of p60 inside , also helps tip the scales more :laughing: I do slip it in my work pants , now maybe I am used to it but it does not feel heavy or intrusive(pants dependent!). Heat wise, it does get warm a little quicker than a standard solarforce host, but not dramatically and it cools pretty quick too.
I will add my work uses tend to be 200lm or less and it does not overheat ,even when left alone for 30+ mins .

Seraph! thanks to vinh





Initial impressions regarding quality is on the high side. Decent threads for ti, has a switch upgrade so can't comment on
a standard version. Love the heat treating , looks amazing in hand. Chucked a CQvn since pic above for now, more than likely will get swapped out for the p60vnT mule and tested in work.

Few more pics

I own a regular Seraph 6 (not Ti), and it makes a great host. It will take an 18650 without boring, and with the 1½ adapter, can be built to take almost any combination of 18650, 18500, and 18340 cells. The same with the Seraph 9. Right now Lumens Factory has host versions (no lamp assembly) on sale for very good prices. Each Seraph includes both a twisty and clicky tail cap, plus extra O-rings. For 3amp and over loads they recommend using the clicky tail cap only. LF also has a C to M adapter so that one can use M series heads with the C Seraph bodies. And they are a great company to work with. Mark, the owner, has a presence here, and will pop in from time to time. Every time I have asked a question (by email) I have received an answer within a day or two, many times from Mark himself.

Timothybil said:

Each Seraph includes both a twisty and clicky tail cap, plus extra O-rings. For 3amp and over loads they recommend using the clicky tail cap only.

Click to expand...

I thought the twisty would be able to handle higher amps than the clicky. I prematurely wore out a Solarforce clicky using a direct-drive dropin. Skylumens fixed me up for a great price.

Hey Ven,
Thanks again for the photos; as always, a great resource. Would you say the Seraph is more slippery than the SolarForce? Are you going to use it for work?

I have multiples of both types, the Seraph in Ha and Ti. The Seraph is considerably stronger than a standard L2(not stainless). I put McClickies in my Seraphs. I also echo Timothybil's comments about Lumensfactory's owner, Mark. He is an awesome guy who stands behind his products. I really like Solarforce, but I have managed to break a couple of their lights, especially easy on 2x 18650 bodies. The stainless steel Ven uses will probably never break, but it is a heavy light. If I had extra funds for a rainy day, I would love to buy a dozen Seraph's as future hosts. They fit well in the hand, come with black & GITD & orange body accents, stainless bezels, two switches and a lanyard...

KITROBASKIN said:

I thought the twisty would be able to handle higher amps than the clicky. I prematurely wore out a Solarforce clicky using a direct-drive dropin. Skylumens fixed me up for a great price.

Hey Ven,
Thanks again for the photos; as always, a great resource. Would you say the Seraph is more slippery than the SolarForce? Are you going to use it for work?

Click to expand...

Thanks for kind words KITRO, tbh the seraph i find to have more grip, the rubber bands around the body no doubt help as well. The stainless SF host is on the slippery side, i balance it out a bit with the fugly clip! . Anti roll is the main reason, but it is easier to grip with the clip!

Few pics side by side(the stainless head is stored as i like the cu cryos on my home L2T)








My plan is to take in work yes, now if i use the nichia 219B triple or the nichia 219C triple mule in work..............thats another question :laughing:

Little Lego

Seraph is an excellent, affordable host that every P60 fan should check out, IMO. It looks great, and feels great in the hand too. The tailcap can readily accept a mcclicky, and you also get one plain and one crenulated stainless bezel ring included. These rings are surefire compatible too (unlike the solarforce bezel rings), which is a plus for me. Be sure to grab an incan LA from Lumens Factory while you're there.:thumbsup:

Wow, finally got the seraph owners to chime in!! I have a sp6 incoming. Also have the stainless steel solarforce.

Wow Ven, I should've known that you had a special seraph incoming. That handsome! Thanks for the nice photos as always.

What's th difference between 219b and 219c?

KITROBASKIN said:

I thought the twisty would be able to handle higher amps than the clicky.

Click to expand...

I'm thinking the same. The clicky switches on my SP-6 and SP-9 are both marked "Max. 2A". I only purchased the hosts (not the kits with accessories), so I don't have a twisty to compare.