What the Nitecore has on the MkIII HI is that there are 3 MH20 variants. 1.Standard XML2 CW 2. Standard NW 3. MH20GT XP-L HI. I have all 3 MH20's as well as the MkIII HI. The throw out of the MkIII HI is roughly the same as the non GT MH20's. The MH20GT is an amazing pocket thrower with 36k+ CD. Unless you get into custom lights there is not another light the MH20GT's size that throws that far. The MH20's have an excellent 2 stage switch like you would find on a camera. Going through the modes on the MH20's is much easier than it is on the MkIII HI's single stage switch.
As for flooder vs thrower vs general purpose beam profiles the majority of light beam profiles for over half a century have been meant for general purpose use which means its a touch of everything. General purpose beam profiles is also what you get out of the standard CW and NW MH20's they are very well done. A decent amount of throw, a defined hot spot with a corona around it be it thin or thick transitioning into the spill portion of the beam which while not as bright as the hot spot is still bright enough to be useful.
Around 2000 this all started to change as custom light makers started marketing lights custom built to have different beam characteristics. Then 15 years ago Fenix came along Nitecore a touch later then the rest of the Chinese brands sprouted up. LED tech then was still pretty basic but still a huge change from the incandescent dominated light market. Ever since then LED tech has just done nothing but improve roughly yearly. The designs and electronics of LED lights advanced along with these newer and better LED's. Over the past 5 years LED tech has just taken off at an emphatic rate. Light companies are now struggling to have their designs and electronics technology keep up with Cree's regular roll out of more and more advanced LED's.
Now in 2016 you can get a light that puts out almost any kind of beam profile you like. Flooders also started hitting the market 5 years ago from the Chinese companies. At the same time dedicated super throwers came about. With flooders the buyers are mostly interested in lighting up a large wide area such as a large yard as well as possible these buyers dont feel the need to be able to light up an object 1000 meters away. Flooders sell very well usually to people with large plots of property. There are ultra high output flooders now like the 7000+ lumen Thrunites. Despite such amazing output they only throw say 15k CD but you bet that these super flooders will light up every detail of over the acre or more of property right in front of them. In my experience super flooders are just to much for me visually. These super flooders are now so high output that seeing past where their searing beam ends becomes impossible. A wall of light I cannot see past.
Super throwers are now so far throwing and high powered that 1000 meter ranges are becoming the standard which is incredible. The beam out of a super thrower also has a much wider than average beam profile. Not as wide as a super flooder but still larger than average. Super throwers have most of their lumens focused into a searingly bright and well defined hot spot. The corona in the beam profile of a super thrower is usually very thin or almost non existant the beam just goes from hotspot to spill. Now...the issue with super thrower beams is that the hot spot is so bright that ones eyes kind of lock onto it. Super throwers have massive spill portions to their profiles usually more than bright enough to be useful but to most people get "drowned out" by the searing highly concentrated and defined hot spot.
Now some makers have become sophisticated enough to tailor their beam profiles to have specific characteristics. Zebralight in my opinion has the best design and engineering team in the entire industry. Zebralights are all small or smaller lights. They all pack a punch for their size. They all also have extremely sophisticated electronics to have their lights come with so many features and options in such small lights. The electronics are potted which is awesome. The MkIII HI runs off an unprotected cell only. No need to worry though all the overheat and overdischarge protections are built into the light. The MkIII HI beam is an excellent example of an advanced light maker tailoring a beam profile to feature the best the emitter is capable of. In the case of the MkIII HI you get near 18k CD throw, a large bright hot spot that is purposely diffuse around the edge, an even corona that transitions into brighter than average spill. The width of the beam out of the MkIII HI is amazing coming out of such a small reflector.
MH20's. These are some of the best Nitecores the company has ever made. The standards average $75-$80 the GT is $99. They all come with a micro USB cord as they all are micro USB rechargeable, they all come with belt holsters and pocket clips. They all have thermal regulation which is great. The highest output MH20 is the CW standard at almost exactly 1000 lumens OTF. MH20 has well spaced modes as well as SOS, strobe and signal beacon all easily and quickly accessible through the MH20's 2 stage switch. There is a blue LED beneath the switch that also will give you a voltage read out when you loosen and tighten the body so you can know how much voltage the battery has left. The size of the MH20 considering all they are capable of is very impressive. The CW and NW versions put out very well done general purpose beams you get easily visible hot spot, corona and lots of useful spill. The standard MH20's have roughly the same throw as the MkIII HI. The GT is a touch longer than the standards as Nitecore designed a deeper reflector for the XP-L HI emitter in the light. The tint out the GT is very white. Independent testing has shown the GT to actually be the lowest output version of the MH20 series at 900 out the front lumens but the emitters white tint and highly concentrated and defined hot spot easily makes it look as high output as the CW standard.
MH20GT beam profile is totally different than the standards. The hot spot is smaller very bright and well defined there is almost no corona. The GT's beam profile is still wider than average and usefully bright but the human eyes tendency to focus on the highly focused and bright hot spot makes the spill seem dimmer than it actually is.
Which light would you get more utility out of? Remember, the MkIII HI has extremely high output at maximum its over 1100 lumens out the front. Using the light at max it gets warm after about a minute then in less than another minute it gets hot. Remember that the ZL is a pretty small light. ZL has still done an outstanding job on heat management. The ZL also has thermal regulation. After a couple minutes at max the light will automatically lower output to lower the lights temperature. Usually most people dont notice the output drop when the regulation kicks in. You dont have to use the ZL at max all the time you have over 11 standard modes to start with then you have the ability to program all your settings to your preference. The light also has adjustable strobe and low voltage warning.
If you get the ZL you are going to need to set aside some time to study the manual the light is capable of so much.
The only thing I can mark as a negative for the MkIII HI is that it does not come with a belt holster and especially that the manuals are just a single sheet of paper and all the information is in very small print. The MH20's are easy. The hardest part about learning the MH20's is getting used to the two stage switch..