LED Lights for Video Work

I thought I would post where the LED experts live

1. Looking to change over from HID lights.
2. Looking for a color range around 4500 - 5500K (no blue tint)
3. Looking for lumens of at least 8,000
4. Need a continuous runtime of 3-5 Min
5. Need a blend of Flood/Throw or an ability to add a diffuser.

Have been considering the following:

• Ace Beam X45 with 5000k color, Max: 15,000L - 3 Min, 9,000 - 8 min...Maybe the best option?
• Imalent DX80 with 6500k color, Max: 32,000L - Too Blue. They have no plans on offering in a different color
• Olight X9, 25,000k - I read it will run for a couple of minutes at 25k Lumen and then step down. I don't know the light color, but I would guess it is 6,500k (too blue). I don't think this is available yet.

Any other lights to consider?

I think you're going to want to give some consideration to color rendering index. A lot of high output lights are around 70 CRI, and some colors, especially in the red range, may look washed out or dark. Most household LED bulbs are around 80 CRI, because most people don't notice the reduced color quality if it's not pointed out to them. Above 90 CRI, it can start to get difficult to tell the difference between ideal sources like the sun without doing well-controlled, direct comparisons.

Unfortunately, there are no high-CRI flashlights that I know of that meet your output expectation. The Noctigon Meteor is a high-output light available with high CRI Nichia 219C emitters at nominally 83 CRI that is estimated at 6600 lumens at turn on, but at least one owner indicated it might actually have lower output, so you might need two of them. I also don't know how well it can maintain that output as the light heats up and the battery voltage drains. This post shows a runtime graph, but it's with the light submerged in water to keep it cool:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1164964#comment-1164964

My video work is shooting caves that have earthy colors (browns, yellows). I have found warner color lights make the underground landscape look better. Looking at a CRI index, something around a CRI 55 - 65 would probably be fine. I know I an get an Ace Beam X45 in that range. I noticed the Meteor, but it's output was a bit lower than I wanted. Also, these soda pop can sized lights don't seem to have decent heat sinks to allow for extended run times on high. The Acebeam X80 can only run on high for 1 minute before it drops down. The output is impressive, but I need a longer runtime for my work.

Thanks for clarifying about the filming in caves. That makes sense, including what you said about warmer lights.

I'm curious what you mean when you say you looked at a CRI index an concluded 55-65 is fine. Different spectra can result in that same CRI score. For white LED's, a CRI below 65 is almost inevitable going to come from a very cool color temperature, have almost no red component, and be a bit weak in the oranges and turquoise range, too.

Earthy tones general include significant red undertones.

I think you are right about the heat sinking of a small light like the Meteor, which is why I figure you'd need multiples if going that route. I think the Thrunite TN36 might be able to do a bit better as far as runtime, and is available in a NW version that should be in the color temperature range you are seeking.

Tintwise, I don't think it will be radically better than the X45, though, so if output and runtime is what you want to prioritize, that makes sense. I am still somewhat concerned about the color rendition, though.

There is a really detailed review of the X45 here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-review-with-measurements-(4x-XHP70-4x-18650)

He confirms it should meet your output vs. runtime expectations. He is also picky about color rendering like I am, and noted a greenish tint to it that varies across the width of the beam. I don't want to sound like I'm overemphasizing color rendition since I can't say for certain this will be an issue in your application. I just want to make sure you're aware of it.

I don't think you'd want a flashlight for what you're trying to do. Sounds like you need some kind of studio lighting or specialized LED.

The LED featured in this video just might be what you're looking for.

That same modder actually has a very detailed making-of video for his 100W version, which he can power by battery. He originally built it with a random Ebay emitter, then later swapped in the 100W Yuji BC-400H chip. I assumed the OP isn't looking to custom make something, but it's very interesting nonetheless. With that cooling setup, it should be able to operate continuously at that level:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c--5c3Egv4E&t=15s

The 100W chip is rated for about 6000 lumens at 3 Amps and roughly 30V. The datasheet actually claims it can handle up to 10 Amps if kept sufficiently cool, but that would be challenging to keep cool. At 4.5A, it would consumer about 150W and produce around 8000 lumens, and some of the best computer processor coolers could probably manage that heat.

Thrunite TN36 - I see it comes in a neural white and is rated at 10,000L, but it has a soda pop design so I wonder how long it can run on High before dropping down? I would suspect it would only run for 1 minute before dropping down.

X45, Greenish Tint - I read this article. The light he was testing I believe had the 6500k LED's. I asked AceBeam about the 5000k version, and they said it did not have a greenish tint. I assume that is correct.

Ref: 100 LED Project.
I saw this one on YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c--5c3Egv4E&t=15s

I also build my own 200W LED light and put it in an ammo box.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsYvcV_qqPo&t=31s

The challenge I have is the environment were I shoot video. In caves, there are rocks and other potential physical contacts that could damage the light, not to mention the potential water exposures that would destroy most home-built LED lights that have a powered cooling system. I need a light that is somewhat compact and can fit in a backpack. I think I am better off looking for a water-resistant/proof commercial product with a passive cooling system (cooling fins).

The other monster lights with high output Crees are most likely just as prone to greenish tint to them as the X45. Rock surfaces in general look bad with Cree LEDs, because they're almost always greenish, no matter their CCT, and to a lesser extent, no matter their CRI. (With higher CCTs it comes off as green, with lower CCTs it comes off as yellow). You can always put green minus filters over the lens though, that will do a good job of diminishing their green cast while also raising their R9 (deep red) value.