CMG reactor head problem

Kristofg · Mar 1, 2004

Unfortunately my CMR reactor which I still consider a great light (and the only luxeon available where I live) has started showing the head-turning problems with often coming on at very dim power or failing to come on at all when the head is turned. Could somebody please tell me how to open up the head or remove it so that I can fix this? I can't send it back to the manufacturer with US-EU customs and all other problems, so i'd like to fix it myself. Could anybody help me with comments or observations on this?
Kind regards,
kristof

kitelights · Mar 1, 2004

It can't be opened without breaking it. You might try twisting and twisting and twisting. There's a very small, thin spring-like arm that fits in a groove and makes contact inside. If the problem is oxidation, the twisting might be able to clean it enough for a temporary fix. If the arm is bent or lost its spring, you're just SOL.

The only real fix is to send it back.

Kristofg · Mar 2, 2004

I have no idea what causes the problems, the flashlight has seen not too much use and hasen't been submitted to rain or anything like that.
Sending it back will end up costing more than a new CMG, not to mention the risk of losing it. No change of prying it open or cutting it with a dremel multitool in order to put it back together again?

kitelights · Mar 2, 2004

Not that I'm aware of. I've only read about people who have cut or broken them open.

BlindedByTheLite · Mar 2, 2004

you should e-mail CMG and ask them if it would be @ all feasible for them to pay the shipping, or part of the shipping.

JJHitt · Mar 2, 2004

If this is the "flickering" problem a lot of users have reported, you might try a squirt of silicone spray down the battery tube and into the head.

I've tried this myself and it worked. I've no idea why and I had more than a few doubts when I tried it, but it did fix the flickering / intermittant lighting problem I had with mine.

Charles Bradshaw · Mar 3, 2004

You can always try working the head back and forth (twisting in both direction) to try and clean the contacts. I have done this with mine, and it has worked, so far.

I consider the 2AA Reactor to be more of a survival, emergency, and/or evacuation light, more than a good backpacking mainstay, thanks to the switch mechanism.

Kristofg · Mar 3, 2004

I'm going to try the silicone spray trick first. Or perhaps some contact spray might work even better? i'll let you guys know what happens. Thanks for al the info. I thought I had damaged it by twisting it too far, but I've since found out that that wouldn't pose a problem normally.

Ted T · Mar 3, 2004

I think the only reason the silicone spray works is the solvent in the spray. I would stick with contact cleaner. Make sure the inside is fully dry before closing up the light with battries in it. Other wise a spark could cause an explosion if the cleaner is flamable.
Ted

Stefan · Mar 4, 2004

Not sure if this will help, but have you possibly tried it with fresher batteries? Some flickering could result if one battery is weaker than the other.

UVLaser · Mar 4, 2004

Did't they fix the that problem? because I still have mind and it has the some problem and I was thinking about returning it. Should I return it? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif or is it going to have the same problem?
Thanks for the info
Bye ~Michael~

CMG reactor head problem

Kristofg

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kitelights

Flashlight Enthusiast

Kristofg

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kitelights

Flashlight Enthusiast

BlindedByTheLite

Flashlight Enthusiast

JJHitt

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Charles Bradshaw

Flashlight Enthusiast

Kristofg

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Ted T

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Stefan

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UVLaser

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