Any physical home security / lock system experts here?

Am in the process of getting some physical security upgrades to the Kestrel nest (get it? )

One component of this is upgraded front & rear entry doors.

Being something of a lock hobbyist, I was thinking of deadbolt locks from Abloy / Mul-T-Lock / etc.
https://www.mul-t-lock.com/en-GB/si...latforms/mechanical-key-platforms/classicpro/

However, another option are the three-point locking systems available in the higher-end residential doors.
As these systems are integrated into the doors, I am guessing I won't be able to geek out on the high-end deadbolts I've wanted for years tho ?

-----

Any entry / lock experts out there?

If I had to choose between a consumer-grade -/) lock w/ a three-point system, vs. a high-end commercial-security deadbolt (but w/ only one locking point on the door), which might be the better route ?

Am looking for maximum resistance to forced entry; cost is not a serious concern as I've wanted this for years and would prefer to get it done right.

Yes I know there are other entry points to the house; those aspects will also be addressed.

Thanks & Best regards,

Kestrel said:

Am looking for maximum resistance to forced entry

Click to expand...

The California security door. I remember an episode of the TV series Cops where they were in some non-California location that didn't traditionally have security doors, we followed along with a SWAT team tasked with a straightforward enter-the-residence arrest-the-guy procedure; on arrival, they noted the house had a security door, which they'd never handled before, but they were confident they had the tools and techniques to get the job done - so the heavy with the battering ram moves up and WHAM, starts hammering away, ...and hammering ...and hammering, the line of SWAT guys waiting behind him are getting anxious as this drags on for 20, 30 seconds, still hammering, anyone inside and the entire neighborhood is completely aware of someone trying to enter from the huge racket by now, still hammering, etc. The cops eventually break a window next to the door and climb in that way, they never got the door open.

So if the bottom line is resistance to forced entry, use the door that not even SWAT can get through..

A friend has something very similar to this Trilennium, three point lock. 4:07 mark in this video. It's very impressive and makes a lot of sense to repel kick-ins.



Having an exterior security door also makes sense. However you're going to have to spend a lot to get one that looks nice and also provides genuine security. The cheap ones can be bypassed in very little time, using easily accessible tools.

StarHalo, Your link directs to all the security doors at Home Depot. I didn't see the California Security Door.

Concerning the three point doors, I don't know for sure, but I'd think the metal for the key receiver would be constructed from a very hard metal. Otherwise a criminal type could easily drill the locking cylinder, thereby rendering the rest of the locking system useless.

I'd also recommend a monitored, alarm system, and make sure to post lots of window and door stickers. But, of course, not even that is foolproof. Somebody want in, then they will get in, knowing they have probably ten minutes to check all the usual places people "hide" their valuables.

It's a shame having to spend so much time, money and energy attempting to keep criminal *******s at bay.

~ Chance

An older video, but gives one reason to ask questions of those selling security doors.

~ Chance

I used to know a thing or two about lockpicking.

Back when I was up to date, it used to be that the better American locks came with 5 pins, one or two of those were pick-resistant security pins. Norm in Europe? 7 pins, all of them pick resistant. And that's for the "normal" lock, a lot of homes have a safety lock as a secondary. Popularity of that secondary has dropped, since nobody manages to pick the primary anyway. ;-)

Rule of thumb seemed to be that you could learn to pick an American lock in a few evenings, even the better ones, but most European locks would survive most locksmiths (until the drill comes out that is).

What I'm getting at is that the best door in the world won't really solve anything, if the lock is trivial to pick or bump.

If you're aiming where I think you're aiming, then I'd look for a lock with at least 6 pick resistant pins, and also resistance against both drilling and bump keying. The latter has trickled down, and is now supposedly quite common.

If you can't find a lock like that, which also seems sturdy, then I'd seriously consider ordering from Europe. The better key/access companies make keys based on not just filing to pattern, but have a number system to describe the depth patterns, allowing you to order extra keys without having to send in keys or lock. As a bonus, the side-tracks on the keys are trademarked and protected, it would be much harder to illegitimately duplicates one of these. I could go on and on about stepping it up to keys with custom side-patterns for extra pick resistance, but by now I'm probably boring you.

Common pitfall seems to be people buying good locks, but ending with the travel distance of the deadbolt itself not reaching far enough into the wall-side, and then intruders being able to pry just enough to get the deadbolt to pass.

In no small part due to that, if I had to pick something myself right this instance, I'd probably go with a normal-ish European type deadbolt (with features mentioned above) at normal height, and then a "security lock" type lock at a very different height. Abnormally high or low, possibly both depending on how paranoid I'd want to be. Praying door and frame becomes much harder as you move away from the middle, and having to pry two/three locations also makes the job a lot harder. Combined with a good quality door, security door or not, the door would likely no longer be your weakest link. That effectively gives you a 2/3-point system, except with two different key systems.

Disclaimer: I used to know what I was was talking about, but I haven't spent that much time staying current. It's possible that the market could have changed more than I realize, or even that my memory could be failing me here, so please don't take anything here as anything but points to consider.

And sorry for the wall of text.

A door is only as secure as the frame around it. Same with windows.

bykfixer said:

A door is only as secure as the frame around it. Same with windows.

Click to expand...

This is what I was waiting to read. Not being an expert and having no knowledge of high security doors, was wondering how the door frame is designed and integrated into the wall on both sides. When I built my place, I put a lot of wood around my door frame and used good quality, as long as I could get, screws to install the door hinges, deadbolt, and door latch hasp(?).

Also wondering if the decision to have the door open outward or inward has been made. Good Luck.

KITROBASKIN said:

Also wondering if the decision to have the door open outward or inward has been made.

Click to expand...

Opening outward is usually a good idea, for two important reasons. One is that it's less likely the door will be blocked in case of evacuation due to fire etc, and the other is that if anyone tries to ram it, the door can/should/will put that energy on the frame, not the deadbolt/hatch alone.

Just like with lights, you get what you pay for.

The lock business has had a lot of mergers/buy-outs in the past 5 or so years. The big guys in high security locks are Abus and Assa Abloy. Assa Abloy owns a bunch other brands that they purchased but operate using the older recognized brand name. They would be my first choice, as they offer a complete security solution.

All of the high security locks come with key access cards identifying you as the owner and this card is required to get keys made. This means, order as many keys you think you'll need when you purchase the locks and order 4-6 more.

I used Medeco locks with the restricted key-way because I had 6 padlocks from Medeco. Only the most accomplished picker will get through the lock given enough time.

Above, someone mentioned Euro-profile cylinders. Most Euro-profile cylinders are keyed on both sides. Good for a door with lites /windows, bad in that you end up leaving a key in the lock most of the time. Depending on house construction, you might be in for an expensive retrofit of door jam and door. Think $3,000 or more per door for a standard 36" door.

IMO, you should look up Assa Abloy, and contact them. They will be able to either help directly, or head you to one of their full service re-sellers.

I've dealt with Taylor Security and Lock (Abus) in northern Virginia as well as the Locking Systems International (Medeco, Sargent, and others) in the Orlando Florida area.

Take a look on YouTube, and search for The Lockpicking Lawyer and Bosnian Bill. They both offer up tips on locking systems as well as showing how to attempt defeating them.

NoNotAgain said:

Above, someone mentioned Euro-profile cylinders. Most Euro-profile cylinders are keyed on both sides. Good for a door with lites /windows, bad in that you end up leaving a key in the lock most of the time.[...]

IMO, you should look up Assa Abloy, and contact them. They will be able to either help directly, or head you to one of their full service re-sellers.

Click to expand...

I mentioned European locks, but didn't have "Euro-profile" in mind.

Assa Abloy was one of the companies I had in mind when I wrote it, so I'll easily second the recommendation.

Not an expert by any means, haven't stayed at a Holiday Inn Express, etc... There is a business near me that advertises a company called Gibralt Door that look to be fairly sturdy. There are videos on their website, may be worth a look.

terjee said:

Opening outward is usually a good idea, for two important reasons. One is that it's less likely the door will be blocked in case of evacuation due to fire etc, and the other is that if anyone tries to ram it, the door can/should/will put that energy on the frame, not the deadbolt/hatch alone.

Click to expand...

For sure! I accidentally locked myself out of my first home (days after purchasing). I needed back in asap, so I went to the side door that opens inward to the garage. I turned the handle and gave it a pretty good ram with my body. Wood framing and trim went flying from the deadbolt pushing. I couldn't believe how easy it was; I probably could have used half the force.

markr6 said:

For sure! I accidentally locked myself out of my first home (days after purchasing). I needed back in asap, so I went to the side door that opens inward to the garage. I turned the handle and gave it a pretty good ram with my body. Wood framing and trim went flying from the deadbolt pushing. I couldn't believe how easy it was; I probably could have used half the force.

Click to expand...

Builder spec home with 1x by stock for the frame. Thats 80% of the pre hung doors.
Did the garage door opener still have the default security code?

I machined an aluminum plate 5/16" thick that the door striker and dead bolt goes into. It's attached with #8 screws 3 1/2" long. Also helps the home is brick and the door is steel.

Most spec built homes you can place a automobile jack sideways and spread the opening without leaving a mark.

Thank you for the replies; although I have not commented, I have read them all.

I must say, it has been a headache to establish configurable options between the door manufacturers, the company who installs the 3-point locking systems, the local dealer, my locksmith / MulTLock dealer, and my contractor / installer.

Being your own GC is ways a treat... :laughing: