How can I waterproof a E1e + PR-T?

Hello guys, I bought a PR-T a few months back and I have been really happy with it, The only thing that bothers me is that is not even slightly splashproof, it leaks from around the mineral glass and the only oring that is in there doesn't seem to hold it tight enough. how can I fix it? I seems that a thicker oring might do it or a very thin oring between the glass and metal could help but I don't wan't to bust this light doing something stupid.

Any ideas?

Alex

there are several things you can do to improve water resistance of any lights, but it doesn't necessarily mean that it will do much good. some lights just have problems in certain areas.

you could try the thicker oring for the lens (particularly if that is the problem), you could use some plumbers sealant tape around the threads. keep it well lubed, etc.

I took mine apart and looked at it. The O-ring belongs between the bezel and the glass- with the bezel on the bench, drop in the O-ring, then the lens. As you tighten the bezel onto the head, you should feel the O-ring start to compress about 1/4 turn before the bezel bottoms-out on the head. Check your O-ring for nicks/cuts! The seal/compression looks adaquate to me. The compression could be increased by shortening the rear of the bezel slightly if it was deemed necessary. Manufacturing tolerances never stack favorably, and maybe you got a "loose" one. On the E1e body you should also have the plastic "wedge" that goes in under the clip.

Larry

Alex,

For starters, the O-ring is between the lens and the lip of the head (the reflector side of the lens), not between the bezel cap and the lens, right?

The reflector should extend past the lip of the head by a bit. The outside edge of the reflector should be smooth with no burrs. When the lens is forced against the O-ring, the O-ring should hit the lip of the reflector and be forced out, into the lip of the of the head and inside bore of the bezel cap. This *should* provide a weather proof seal but not pressure proof seal.

Unfortunately, to design a good and water proof seal around the PR reflector, a larger OD head or a more permenant assembly should be employed. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

With the existing geometry, I have found that putting a smooth chamfer on the outide edge of the reflector aids in directing the O-ring outboard and into a seal position.

Don, I stand corrected! However, if sealant were employed on the bezel threads (the "more permanent assembly?",) I think the O-ring located forward of the lens would be better.

Larry

Larry,
I agree with the permenant fix you propose but for quick access, the only way to protect moisture in from behind the lens is to have the O-ring there. I have assembled a bunch of these, prior to potting in the E-can and they have all passed the BS (blow-suck) test. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

My original design criteria was to work with the PR reflector, 1 1/4" bar stock for the head and non-custom O-rings. This was the best I could come up with. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif The last couple heads I have been in design work on, have a different seal arraingement but then, I am starting from scratch with the intent of a pressure proof head (at least from the front end that I can control! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif )

Thanks guys. I am going to try some of the fixes described and see what happens.

Thanks again!/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Alex /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

This seems to work! apparently the Oring was misplaced, I put the oring then glass and then reflector and it feels better. I will try the BS test and see what happens.

Thanks again for your help

Alex