Bought twisty from JS Burly

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ZuluWhiskeyFox

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Bought a twisty for an LS from J.S. Burly. One of those non-turnkey ones. I removed the anodising on the threads and battery post no problem. Followed the advise on another thread on the use of Sodium Hydroxide. Worked like a charm. My problem now is one of battery length. It seems the battery is a bit short. I understand this is one of the reasons why arc dropped the twisty. I am contemplating putting a dome of solder onto the positive post on the bottom of the circuit board. Is this a good idea? Or is there an alternate solution? Preferably one that doesn't have any loose parts to lose during a battery change.

cheers,
zwf
 

jtice

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Heh, funny you should mention that...

I just got a couple "defective" heads from DougS.
So I grabbed one of my old twistie packs, and after placing it on one of the heads, remembered, that it was one of those ones that needs a longer battery.

I just placed a small washer under the battery as a temp solution.

What would be nice, is to place the solder blob in the twistie pack, but I dont think you will get the solder to stick to the AL pack.

Placing it on the head, as you mentioned, will work just fine, but remember, it will cuz your other packs to not screw on as far, so watch where your orings engage.

It ussually doesnt take much, maybe 1/16th of an inch.

[EDIT] Just wanted to clearify. Those "defective" heads from Doug, were supposed to be defective, they are like seconds. Just didnt want ppl thinking Doug sent me bad parts.
 

jrunner192

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It may be too loose for what you are wanting, but instead of needing to solder on the nice cobalt/gold contact, you might want to try a folded up piece of aluminum foil down in there. You can get it just the right size and it will be easily removeable if you ever decide that you want to take it out.
 

cosco

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I think you can also make a type of two stage switch like that one that will go to Fire~Fly. There is a loooong thread about the switch for ARC LS. Just make it as thick as you need it. The space might become an advantage for you.
 

simbad

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My twisty works perfectly only with Panasonic batteries, when I turn it on is exactly where the thread finishes, if I use Duracells makes the same but the battery rattles and the light goes on and off.
I wouldnt add any extra part between the battery and the negative contact, some people have had the battery crushed and could happens the same with the circuit board if the light is overtighten by accident.
 

MR Bulk

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I used a spring in mine, happened to have one the exact right size to pop down over the negative nubbin at the bottom (need to sand off the ano from around the nub first so the spring makes good electrical contact). At first I had loose battery rattle and the light would indeed flicker on and off unless the twisty was turned back more, but I simply cut down the spring to just one coil protruding above the nubbin and it's fine now. Even allows the twisty to be turned almost all the way down before it activates, for an ultra short light.

Thanks Jon!
 

simbad

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Well, you have a very good training to do that, anyway, it doesn't look very difficult to do, thanks for the idea ,I will try it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

McShawn

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I did the same as mr bulk. I went to Lowes hardware store and searched through springs until I found one and had to cut it and bend some but works great every time with any battery that I have tried to date.
 

Gandalf

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My Arc LSH-P, which just went in for warranty repair today, works fine with a twisty and most commercial battery types.

The only batteries that are really too short are the ones I take out of a 223 battery pack, which yeilds 2 123 cells. I insulate them with paper tape. To make them the right length for my Arc LSH-P, I put a small blob of solder on the + contact.

I can do a dozen batteries in minutes. I often get a bit too much solder on the battery + contact, and I either use a file, if I have a few, or a bench grinder to remove solder and flatten the contact. About 1-2 mm of solder seems optimal.

Quick, easy, and no loose parts to lose when switching batteries in the dark, which I have done more than once, (aided by my Arc-AAA, of course /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif).

But dropping a little spring in the woods at night might ruin the outing......

And the batteries work just fine in SureFire lights, too
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink2.gif
 
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