So if I use a red lux 3 on a circuit board from q3 will it burn out?

I am interested in purchasing some of photonfanatics "colored lux 3" stars, but am overwhelmed with all the coding on color bins. I have looked at the 3 page bin coding on color lux's, but need an engineer degree to decipher all the Vf and lumens and so forth.

photonfanatic has green lux3's and also red and blue lux's for sale on about 2 different threads.

I would like to install a green lux, also a red or red orange, as well as a blue lux in QIII's using either the default circuit board or even a dorcy aaa board. Thats about as exotic as I get. I am not into the direct drive with rechargeables, as it is easier for me to get sf123's

So... Will the lux 3 red, red orange, green, or blue be destroyed if I install inside a Q3 using either default ckt or dorcyaaa board?

Any help would be appreciated.

Jim

Green and Blue will do just fine. It's the Amber/Red/Red-Orange I'm not too sure about with the stock boost board.. Anyone have any ideas what would happen?

Boost implies that the voltage going into the LED will alway be "at least" as high as V bat. The Lux III R/O has a Vf lower than V bat.

If you want to run a Lux III R/O, you would be safer to bypass the board entirely and run it direct drive directly off of a primary CR123. With the 123 under load, and the rising Vf of the R/O with current, it should balance out around 800 - 1000ma, well within the specs of both cell and LED.

Aren´t the red and r/o Lux3 rated for 1400mA ??? I doubt that the stock boost circuit can deliver such a high current. But I´ve no clue what will be a better solution ... direct drive or stock circuit.

I'd do as Harry suggests and simply remove the regulator all together. The regulator very likely won't be able to provide the 1400mA the LED is rated for, and if left in, will likely just sit there and consume power without giving any added benefit at all.

I usually don't like direct drive, but in this case, a single CR123 direct driving a R-O Lux III is a safe configuration as the terminal voltage of the CR123 will drop significantly at the high currents that the R-O is capable of dealing with.

You don't have to worry about driving that R/O at 1400ma to get a bright light. I have a R/O in a 2D Mag direct driven with two alkalines and it draws only about 1000ma with fresh cells and it's incredibly bright. In fact, I haven't changed the batteries in months and it's only drawing about 800ma now and still crazy bright.

If the Vf of the red/RO Lux is H or higher, and a Q3 is a 1X123 light it should be fine! I have a G Vf R/O (2.79-3.03V) running direct drive on a 123 and only pulling ~1A. At 1A draw, the 123 cell's voltage sags considerably! Still a bright sucker!

Larry

Thanks for all who posted here. I kinda had the feeling once it was discussed the way you all have done so... it would make sense.

I feel more comfortable now after reading the posts here, and will DD at least 1 red lux 3 on my Q3, and boost a green/ blue in other Q3's.

Thanks again ALL

Jim

Jim,

Unless you can (good luck!) find a red or R/O with a Vf lower than G, IMO the boost board should be just fine. You don't need to go DD.

Larry

tvodrd said:

Jim,

Unless you can (good luck!) find a red or R/O with a Vf lower than G, IMO the boost board should be just fine. You don't need to go DD.

Larry

Click to expand...

Anyone know where a Vf lower than G can be had?