my new lathe ... Precision Matthews 12x36 ...

Maybe you can design the gantry to sit over the car when it is parked in there, so it doesn't take up much 'room'.

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That's how mine works, and the wheels make it easy to move even with 2000# hanging on the hook.

wquiles said:

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I have a silly ? for you.
How do you remove the chuck from the short taper?

I'm guessing: Open chuck smack it with a brass drift and hammer?

StrikerDown said:

I never would have gussed the WHite wire FROM A FACTORY was really GRound, even if they are Chinese!

Now that we have determined your machine has no neutral, I'm going to guess that your worklight is a halogen 24V and the coolant pump is 24V too instead of 110V. I'm guessing they use 24V (low Voltage) for safety around cooling fluids.

As I said yesterday the WH and GR wires should not be connected together outside of the panel on the side of the house.

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As soon as I verify that the lamp/pump run on 24V, I will re-wire the lathe properly with just the 2 hots and the earth ground (green) and no connection to the white wire ;)

Will

StrikerDown said:

I have a silly ? for you.
How do you remove the chuck from the short taper?

I'm guessing: Open chuck smack it with a brass drift and hammer?

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Once you hit zero on the tailstock scale, stop, so that you can keep using it. If you keep rewinding the tailstock past the 0" mark, then the arbor gets pushed out. So basically while in use, you rewind until you feel resistance, but not past the resistance point, otherwise you would need to get out the 5# hammer and refit the arbor in place ;)

Will

wquiles said:

Once you hit zero on the tailstock scale, stop, so that you can keep using it. If you keep rewinding the tailstock past the 0" mark, then the arbor gets pushed out. So basically while in use, you rewind until you feel resistance, but not past the resistance point, otherwise you would need to get out the 5# hammer and refit the arbor in place ;)

Will

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That's how you get the morse taper out of the tail stock and you use a drift key on the drill press but how did you get the chuck off of the short (JT) taper?

StrikerDown said:

That's how you get the morse taper out of the tail stock and you use a drift key on the drill press but how did you get the chuck off of the short (JT) taper?

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Opps - sorry. To remove the chuck I usually hold the arbor in a wood vise (so I don't mar the steel's finish), and then insert and use the chuck key to "wiggle" the body from side to side along the arbor's axis to get it loose.

Will

how did you get the chuck off of the short (JT) taper?

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Jacobs sells a pair of wedges than are used if there's a shoulder (like a drill press quill)



They go on to say "In case the mounting taper of the arbor does not provide a shoulder, a cross hole should be drilled through the neck of the arbor (illus. D.) and a cross pin inserted. Then the wedges can be used between the chuck back and the cross pin. If desired, a hole may be driled through the soft center portion of the chuck body (Illus. D.), and a pin may then be used with an arbor press to force the arbor out of the chuck.

Thanks guys, I have a new chuck that needs a different MT. The wedges look Too easy, wonder why I haven't noticed them before!

Sorry for the hijack...

StrikerDown said:

Thanks guys, I have a new chuck that needs a different MT. The wedges look Too easy, wonder why I haven't noticed them before!

Sorry for the hijack...

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Not a hijack at all - ask away ;)

Will

A related story (only slightly OT/hijack :D)

Bought a Tapmatic 90-X tapping head, which is the largest conventional head they make ... only problem was the #5 MT sticking out the top, and my machine needed R-8. These heads are over a fifteen hundred dollars each (although mine came from an auction), and I didn't want to mess it up. The nice lady at Tapmatic referred me to their instructions which say:

REMOVAL OF TAPERED ARBORS: Removal of the arbor from the
Jacobs taper in a tapping attachment will generally require striking the arbor with a soft metal rod. Hold the tapping attachment, with the arbor pointed away, in one hand and strike the arbor sideways on tang or in relief area, with a brass rod grasped in the other hand. Numerous blows may be required. DO NOT STRIKE THE TAPPING ATTACHMENT. Stuborn arbors and arbors installed with Loctite will require the application of heat. Using a soft flame propane torch, evenly heat the interface area where the arbor enters the attachment. (300° F will be required to break down the Loctite.) After applying heat, resume striking the arbor with the soft metal rod until the arbor loosens. Always use caution when handling heated parts.

No problem. Fired up the propane torch & set it to a soft flame, warmed the arbor to 300°, using a Fluke IR thermometer, and banged away with the brass rod. Nothing. Repeated the process - nothing. Turned off the propane torch & lit the 100,000 btuh rosebud heating tip (running oxygen & acetylene). Heated the tang of the #5 MT above red heat, closer to white, until it started to melt. Kept it heated for a few minutes, until the Fluke read almost 400°, and went back with the brass rod. After a few more minutes, the two separated:eek:

The new R-8 adapter went into the freezer overnight, the Tapmatic body got a gentle warm up with the propane torch, and the two are now joined at the hip. Which is needed, as the head weighs about 15#.

Will, that is a great solution to an overhead crane. I saw one kind of like it a few years back that disassembled and was made out of aluminum. Unfortunately they would sell that but they gave me a modified cherry picker that would hold close to 2000#. It was widened at the base so it could go around some special equipment that was a one time job...can't remember, it's been a long time.

I will put pencil to paper and get my measuring tape out. I REALLY like that crane of yours. I could use something like that, and if I was smart I could make high legs for outdoors and low legs for inside the garage.....

Oh, I wanted to ask a question too. I can't remember if you borrowed a level or you bought one. How did you level the machine and where did you get your feet?

Bob E.

SafetyBob said:

Will, that is a great solution to an overhead crane. I saw one kind of like it a few years back that disassembled and was made out of aluminum. Unfortunately they would sell that but they gave me a modified cherry picker that would hold close to 2000#. It was widened at the base so it could go around some special equipment that was a one time job...can't remember, it's been a long time.

I will put pencil to paper and get my measuring tape out. I REALLY like that crane of yours. I could use something like that, and if I was smart I could make high legs for outdoors and low legs for inside the garage.....

Oh, I wanted to ask a question too. I can't remember if you borrowed a level or you bought one. How did you level the machine and where did you get your feet?

Bob E.

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Bob,

The krane solution is not mine - that is precisionworks' solution ;)

Now assuming the level/feet question are for me: I did buy an used Starrett level on Ebay, shown in recent photos on the prior page. The feet I ordered from MSC direct - those are rated to 1000 pounds each. Yes, a little overkill for a lathe in the 1200 pound range :devil:

Will

Question for you guys: Today I got my Phase II Wedge-type, "B" series Quick Change Tool Post. The "T" at the bottom of the tool post is a little bit too wide for the slot in my compound. Which side/part of the "T" is the one I have to mill, the flat part that faces the bottom, right? Or am I totally confused (as always!)?

EDIT: Never mind. I got home and checked it: I have to mill it on all sides before it will fit:





I guess it will be a "little" bit longer before I can cut some chips on my new lathe :(


By the way, the tool holders, even though they are all for the BXA system, are a lot more different than I expected. I have tool holders that came with the piston-type kit that came with my lathe



I also have the ones that came with my Phase II kit:



and I also got a few ones from CDCO. Here in this picture:
left = longer tool holders that came with my piston kit
center = holders from CDCO
right = holders that came with the Phase II kit



Here is another view:
top = longer tool holders that came with my piston kit
center = holders from CDCO
bottom = holders that came with the Phase II kit







Now, all else being equal, is there any advantage to the longer tool holders that came with the piston kit?


Will

Edit: my comments no longer make sense. Good oil by the way... get it :)



R

I also finalized the simple wiring change to correct my initial mistake with the white/return wire (boy do I feel pretty stupid about now!). I verified that there are no 120V devices:
- the pump is a 220V pump
- the lamp is a 24V lamp
- the DRO runs on 220V

I removed the white/return blade, and soldered both wires in the plug to the earth ground (green) blade. They are already shorted together at the electrical box as well:



I guess it is good to feel stupid but being safe, right? Thanks again for all of your help in making sure my lathe was wired properly and safely :D


By the way, I finally got the recommended Vactra Way Oil today:



David (Anglepoise) would be proud of me for at least making an effort to keep my new lathe clean :devil: , although, I don't think I could ever compete with him in the keeping-the-lathe-in-pristine-condition category :nana:

Just kidding - of course!. Thanks David for all of your help :twothumbs

Will

Quick tip on the tool post . Once you have milled the 'T' to fit , don't get caught out with the surface "B" being higher than "A".
Mine was level but the tool post would never fully 100% tighten and it slipped on occasion. Took me a couple of months to find out what was wrong.
During one of my 'cleaning sessions' ( no snickering please ), I noticed radial marks on the top of the 'T', showing it was rubbing on the post. Once I milled a few thou off ( "B" ) so it was below the surface 'A', all was well. Sometimes these little things get forgotten.

White paint. ( sorry slightly off topic )

My part time job has me maintaining a beautiful pair of Cat 3406E marine intercooled and turbocharged engines. The engine room and motors and gearboxes all come from the factory with white paint.
Its amazing how it helps.
Brown oil ,black soot, red coolant, and blue/green corrosion stand out very easily and aren’t missed. It sure helps to spot problems before they get too big.
Will…..just going to have to keep that white lathe clean.<g>

Will, you can use the factory 'T', and make a new bolt for the tool post, it's much easier.

Anglepoise said:

Will…..just going to have to keep that white lathe clean.<g>

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I will "try" ;)

TranquillityBase said:

Will, you can use the factory 'T', and make a new bolt for the tool post, it's much easier.

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The lathe came with nothing on the compound. What "factory T"? :confused:

Will

wquiles said:

I will "try" ;)




The lathe came with nothing on the compound. What "factory T"? :confused:

Will

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Bummer :(