HDS Systems EDC # 15

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nutcracker

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Turn on the light, then double-click but hold the 2nd click of the double-click till the light goes to max mode. Then you can release the button.

EDIT: The light has programmed emergency strobe to preset D (triple click)(that must the mode you called beacon). To have a much faster strobe (tactical strobe) you have to program it first. That means enabling customization and programming it to ones of the 4 slots.
 

nanotech17

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Turn on the light, then double-click but hold the 2nd click of the double-click till the light goes to max mode. Then you can release the button.

EDIT: The light has programmed emergency strobe to preset D (triple click)(that must the mode you called beacon). To have a much faster strobe (tactical strobe) you have to program it first. That means enabling customization and programming it to ones of the 4 slots.

thanks man but on burst mode i don't think i'm getting 200 lumens more like 140lumens.
 
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nutcracker

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I still work on a lanyard/attachment style for my rotary.
Do you guys think it is safe to just loop the constrictor knot lanyard over the light and weave the knots to the other end and insert a split ring in the other end?

I made a picture of how I think about it:



The loop around the light can only loosen if the knots slide away from the light. So I would tie them snuggly and use a split ring on the opposite end.
 

nanotech17

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thanks man but on burst mode i don't think i'm getting 200 lumens more like 140lumens.

this is what i'm talking about.HDS RB200 on the left vs ZL SC31c (hi cri rebel)
DSC02256Custom.jpg


under exposed -2.0
DSC02257Custom.jpg
 

Biginboca

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I tried a few things and ended up using zip ties to secure lanyards to my lights. On the black bezel rotary I used a large zip tie around the light to attach the lanyard to. On the silver bezel rotary I tied the lanyard, melted the knot a bit to keep it tight, and then a small zip tie as insurance at the base of the knot to keep it from working loose.

IMAG0696.jpg



IMAG0700.jpg



IMAG0701.jpg
 

nutcracker

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Thx I like the solution on the silver bezel rotary.

@nanotech

If you just turn on the light and then hold the button momentarily, do you then get the 200 lumens?
 

davyro

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When you turn your rotary on keep the pressure on your switch & the burst function should come on
if your light is still in the factory default mode,mine does & its more like 240 lumen than 200.So by
looks of your beamshots your not getting the proper burst function.
 

pjandyho

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Thx I like the solution on the silver bezel rotary.

@nanotech

If you just turn on the light and then hold the button momentarily, do you then get the 200 lumens?
With the light on, a push and hold will lead you to max output. And that's what I like about the rotary. I could adjust the output to any level on the rotary dial before switching it on, and if I needed max output I just push down on the tail cap to get max burst. It will go back to the last setting used when I release my thumb.
 

pjandyho

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When you turn your rotary on keep the pressure on your switch & the burst function should come on
if your light is still in the factory default mode,mine does & its more like 240 lumen than 200.So by
looks of your beamshots your not getting the proper burst function.
Ehhhh... The beam shot don't belong to nutcracker.
 

nanotech17

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Thx I like the solution on the silver bezel rotary.

@nanotech

If you just turn on the light and then hold the button momentarily, do you then get the 200 lumens?

nope.here is another beamshots (hds on the left) vs maglite 2AA with Luxeon K2 TFFC TWOD with 2 eneloops @ 1A using GD 1000 buck/boost driver.
once in a bluemoon (ever since i got it) it can go to burst out of a sudden.
this maglite K2 is rated 187lumens OTF using friend's homemade test equipment.
DSC02259Custom.jpg


under exposed -2.0
DSC02260Custom.jpg
 
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pjandyho

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Nanotech, either your setting is wrong or the light is faulty. The max burst on the rotary is definitely a lot brighter than my SC51c. Even if you are using an SC31c, it shouldn't be brighter than the HDS rotary.
 

nanotech17

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With the light on, a push and hold will lead you to max output. And that's what I like about the rotary. I could adjust the output to any level on the rotary dial before switching it on, and if I needed max output I just push down on the tail cap to get max burst. It will go back to the last setting used when I release my thumb.

yes i can get that last setting used and dial rotary before switching on but not that burst mode.
 

Blades

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I tried a few things and ended up using zip ties to secure lanyards to my lights. On the black bezel rotary I used a large zip tie around the light to attach the lanyard to. On the silver bezel rotary I tied the lanyard, melted the knot a bit to keep it tight, and then a small zip tie as insurance at the base of the knot to keep it from working loose.

IMAG0696.jpg

Nice work. I like the tritium on your lanyard. I have one of those small ones on my Camelbak TriZip, I might need another one to attach to my Rotary.

Here is what I have set up on my Rotary(netbook webcam pictures):
105125.jpg

105217.jpg

This way I can strap it to my wrist and keep from dropping it; because in every movie I've seen, they always drop the flashlight.
 

pjandyho

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Have you tried programming Preset A to max output? When you do a push and hold from the rotary preset, it goes to preset A on momentary.
 

nutcracker

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Are you sure that you don't just switch to mode B or C with ~20-30 lumen?
That would happen if you only double-click.
To access the Mode A 200 lumen you have to hold the 2nd click about half a second.
 

nanotech17

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ok, from factory setting,can i go to burst mode by just double click it?
if not than i will have to set it up but like i said - i can get burst mode out of a sudden and it is less than 40 seconds,maybe about 5 seconds.
 

nutcracker

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Factory setting:
Turn on the light, double click and hold the 2nd of these two clicks till the light goes to 200lumen, release the button. [clicky-cklicky(hold)-release]
 
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