Programming the SPY007 XM-L

[KuanR]

For the pu2, the video is not accurate for the new 007.

The lock now works by using pu2 to enable it, and then to use it, you turn the knob to Max and back to off very quickly to lock the light.

 

[Data]

That was a typo, it is PU5 for checking the levels.

PU1 now has a report feature that pulses out what ever slot you have selected. But its use has not changed. As an example if you do a PU1 and quickly set the switch to P3, it will pulse the emitter three times and set the light to slot 3.


Cheers
Dave

 

[LuxLuthor]

For the pu2, the video is not accurate for the new 007.

The lock now works by using pu2 to enable it, and then to use it, you turn the knob to Max and back to off very quickly to lock the light.

Whew! I must have tried the triple twist a hundred time that was showing in that video. I figured it must be current since he only posted it 9 months ago. How did you learn that is how the PU2 now operates? Is there somewhere that give a current list or videos that display how things are set now for various programming?

That was a typo, it is PU5 for checking the levels.

PU1 now has a report feature that pulses out what ever slot you have selected. But its use has not changed. As an example if you do a PU1 and quickly set the switch to P3, it will pulse the emitter three times and set the light to slot 3.

First and foremost, let me say that this is a magnificent and elegant piece of work and accomplishment. I will treasure it for a long time.

I hoped that was a typo, but for us using the Spy for the very first time there is a lot of variations that are more confusing than clarifying. I have not yet found an up to date guide.

David, with respect, and to give you humble feedback as a brand new user, how can you say that "its (PU1) use has not changed?" I have spent at least 3 hours reading threads in this section, and looking a various videos. After reading the only manual I have seen in this section, I was expecting to see a whole display of Easter eggs as I explored PU1. I didn't see any Easter Eggs. Personally, I think as a moderator, you should deep six or gray out that entire manual as no longer being valid. It serves to confuse new buyers.

Now eggless, I went and looked at those videos again in my last post, and specifically of PU1. I would have never known--or even guessed logically that programming PU1 went from his video display of rotating the switch to P3 (bank 3) sometime during the initial slow pulsing, to knowing it changed to rotating the switch quickly to P3 as you just said, and before the single pulse happens, or that the single pulse is telling a newbie that it is in bank #1 as opposed to being another default turn on like P0U which gives the same single pulse.

So when you say "its use has not changed," if a person does not know the correct way to use the programming, it is not remotely the same on a practical basis--it is inaccessible for them. Another example of that is although I have the charged AW IMR cells, I do now know how to do this:

Let's say I want to make my XM-L2 Bank 2, P4 set at 1000mA, P5 set to 2000mA, and P6 set to 3300mA. Can someone say the sequence for these?

Are there any current programming videos now, and any Easter Eggs now?

Thanks in advance.

 

[KuanR]

Hey Lux,

The reason I know about the lock feature is because I'm a huge Cool Fall fan and have been following all the threads from new products to sales threads. The lock feature was talked about in the Tri-V2 thread so I just remembered it.

I agree with you that it's hard to understand all the info as the converter board in the light has changed so many times since the introduction of the lights, but once you learn it, it becomes second nature

There is no easter eggs in the current lights, that was only on the really early lights that had no different banks of settings.

Let's see....to set the light to your desired settings, you have to:

-Do a PU4 and select the 4th position on the switch (which is just leaving it there in this case).
-After it stops flashing, turn to switch position 1 (P1). The emitter should be flashing right now.
-Go to P5 and then back to P0
= P4 is now set to 1000mA

-As you are at P0 now and the emitter is flashing, turn to P5 and wait for the flashing to stop
-After it stops flashing, go to P1, the emitter is flashing again
-Key in P5-P4-P5 and then P0
=P5 is now set to 2000mA

-Being at P0 again, emitter is flashing, turn to P6 and wait for the flashing to stop
-After it stops, go to P1, emitter is flashing again
-Key in P5-P4-P5-P4-P5-P3-P4-P3-P4-P3-P4 and then P0
=P6 is now set to 3300mA

Leave the light in P0 now and let it calibrate. It will turn off once it's done.

After that, do a PU5 and check the levels and see if you got it right

I hope I got this right because I had just done it but typing it out is a different story

 

[BenChiew]

I think it is time that a new thread is created to keep track of the various versions and PU positions and what each of them do.
From an old thread, I also see easter eggs in PU1, Power up and down in PU4 and PU5.
What is in PU1 and PU5 in the new version. I know PU4 is to program.
As far as I know PU2 (unlock) and PU6(battery meter) remains unchanged.

 

[archimedes]

.... Please just don't delete any "outdated" material (for earlier versions), as this remains very important for archival purposes ....

 

[BenChiew]

.... Please just don't delete any "outdated" material (for earlier versions), as this remains very important for archival purposes ....

I think the thread should start with the earliest version as they are still being used.

 

[LuxLuthor]

After that, do a PU5 and check the levels and see if you got it right

I hope I got this right because I had just done it but typing it out is a different story

Ryan, thanks for your help. First, after you finish any PU4 and go back to P0 and wait for it to finish its CAL and turn off....mine never turns off. It leaves a very faint glow...maybe like 0.001mA (or less). If I go to P1, then back to P0, then it is 100% off.

With your help, I have now been able to get my P6 to 3300mA, P5 to 2000mA, P4 to 1000mA, and P3 to 500mA, and P2 to 100mA, but I have to do them as separate PU4 operations. If I try to do them together like you showed, 1 or more come out with a very very low setting like 1 mA.

What would be the sequence if I wanted to program P2 to 150mA and P1 to 50mA ?

 

[LuxLuthor]

.... Please just don't delete any "outdated" material (for earlier versions), as this remains very important for archival purposes ....

I can appreciate that, but maybe they should be labeled as NOT FOR XXXX Spy Models and later.

As far as I have seen there is not ANY current programming guideline or video anywhere. The frustration as a new user seriously detracts from the Spy experience--at least from my experience. I have felt like throwing this brand new Spy into the wall in front of me at least a dozen times--mainly because I'm supposedly following what I think is current programming instructions, only to find later that almost NOTHING is the same--but no indication anywhere about that.

 

[LuxLuthor]

For the pu2, the video is not accurate for the new 007.

The lock now works by using pu2 to enable it, and then to use it, you turn the knob to Max and back to off very quickly to lock the light.

Kuan, back to this PU2 if you don't mind. How do you know if the PU2 is enabled or disabled? In other words, if I PU2 it alternates between blinks one time or single pulse up/down flash. I don't know which is enabling or disabling it.

After either of the PU2 blinks/pulse happens, I then tried zipping the switch to P6 and P0, but could not tell that anything happened. After trying this locking, what should be the indication that it is locked? All the settings appear to work after what I think is the locking procedure. Do you have to go back to a PU0 and then do the rapid locking? If so, how do you distinguish between the locking procedure and intentional cycling through the switch settings in a more rapid application where you need to get to the P6 light quickly?

Thanks Ryan.

 

[BenChiew]

Lux. The locking needs to be done very rapidly. I usually use the palm of my hands as a runway where I will roll the rotary dial from P0 down my palm and when it would not roll anymore, I immediately roll back from P6 back to P0. If you try to use your fingers to turn the dial, most time you will get stuck somewhere.

Once this is completed, you can try to turn the light on. If the lockout is activated, you should just see the emitter blink once and then you get nothing.

If you can still get light, then do the roll thing again and if it still lights up, you need to do a PU2.

 

[easilyled]

I can appreciate that, but maybe they should be labeled as NOT FOR XXXX Spy Models and later.

As far as I have seen there is not ANY current programming guideline or video anywhere. The frustration as a new user seriously detracts from the Spy experience--at least from my experience. I have felt like throwing this brand new Spy into the wall in front of me at least a dozen times--mainly because I'm supposedly following what I think is current programming instructions, only to find later that almost NOTHING is the same--but no indication anywhere about that.

I agree. I initiated this thread in an attempt to have everything that I needed (for my 007-XML) immediately accessible rather than trying to hunt through mounds of info, often quite a bit outdated, in many different threads.

I don't mean to sound critical but these lights are high-end lights, beautifully made and the cost reflects that. I really think that Dave aka data should provide some simple user-guides for each version.

 

[samuraishot]

Lux. The locking needs to be done very rapidly. I usually use the palm of my hands as a runway where I will roll the rotary dial from P0 down my palm and when it would not roll anymore, I immediately roll back from P6 back to P0. If you try to use your fingers to turn the dial, most time you will get stuck somewhere.

Once this is completed, you can try to turn the light on. If the lockout is activated, you should just see the emitter blink once and then you get nothing.

If you can still get light, then do the roll thing again and if it still lights up, you need to do a PU2.

+1 it really can't be done by twisting the knob with a finger or thumb. It has to be rolled quickly. It's a really useful feature that"s absolutely necessary.

 

[Imon]

Hey Lux,

Got my 007 in today. I feel your pain about programming the light.
After a few tries at it I think I got the hang of it. Keep pushing forward and you'll get it eventually.

 

[LuxLuthor]

To add to my confusion in trying to understand how the PU4 programming for Spy XM-L2 works, there was this earlier post from Data in this thread:

To set to 3000mA in P6:

PU4 quickly go to P6

wait till pulsing stops
P1 (observe quick strobe)

P5
P4

P5
P4

P5
P0

wait till pulsing stops, light cals level 6 to 3000 and then light shuts off

*****
After programming the light, make sure you got the setting you are trying for by checking it with a PU5

Cheers
Dave

Then I got a PM from Frank who also just got his Spy, and he gave me his perfect guide which he was certain worked with his XM-L2:

To program Remove cover then move to position 4 replace cover. WHILE IT IS STILL FLASHING (9 seconds) move the knob to the position you wish to set with a new level of mA. Now move it to position 1 (rapidly blinking) Then to the following depending on your desired increments of mA:

• knob position 0 = off
• knob position 1 = home (emitter is fast flashing)
• knob position 2 = +1mA
• knob position 3 = +10mA
• knob position 4 = +100mA
• knob position 5 = +1000mA
• knob position 6 = -0.1mA

​

so for increments of 1000mA after you turned it to 1 (flashing rapidly) move it to position 5 then back to 1 continue till level is reached. For example once you have done it twice and reached 3000mA from the stock 1000mA next time move it to position 4 three times and back to position one to attain 300mA for a total of 3300mA! once you are at your desired level move it all the way to position 0 THEN WAIT UNTIL (ALL) yes ALL yes ALL ...lol I made this mistake so I wanted you to make sure... the flashing has stopped (10 seconds maybe a little more) Then you are done. Confirm with a position 5 restart. Worked perfect for me!!

Now the strange part for me as a new user is that both methods work. To help future new users, Frank's guide is much clearer, because it includes the mA for all the buttons, and the types of flashing & time estimate (9 sec) for choosing switch location.

One thing I would add with my model is that the completion step at P0 where the programmed values are calibrated does not turn off the LED when done. Rather it leaves the LED with a very faint white glow (maybe about 0.0005mA) that goes away once you advance to P1 and back to P0. I did not see this mentioned anywhere, but since the light did not turn completely off, I assumed I messed up the programming somehow.

I bet Dave is just thrilled that I got one of these now! LOL!

 

[LuxLuthor]

Hey Lux,

Got my 007 in today. I feel your pain about programming the light.
After a few tries at it I think I got the hang of it. Keep pushing forward and you'll get it eventually.

Thank you Imon. I did finally get it using that technique of extremely rapid rolling from P0 to P6 and back to P0 using the side of my palm, without ANY pausing in middle of cycle at P6.

For other users, here is another key piece of information which has not been disclosed.

To enable the locking function, you must know which PU2 light display enables the capability of locking, and which display disables the capability. These two outputs toggle back and forth every time you make battery contact in PU2 mode.

PU2 - Enable - wax/wane single pulse light (like PU-0)
PU2 - Disable - short rapid blinking
​

I'm not even sure we should be posting all this info in this thread which is titled for the XM-L rather than the XM-L2 that Frank and I received.

 

[BenChiew]

Lux. Both the described methods are the same. Only difference is Dave is setting for 3000mA while Frank has the additional steps to do the balance of the 300mA to make 3300mA.

On the faint light at P0 completion, maybe Dave can chime in. I think that is present in the Tri-V2 as well.

 

[LuxLuthor]

I agree. I initiated this thread in an attempt to have everything that I needed (for my 007-XML) immediately accessible rather than trying to hunt through mounds of info, often quite a bit outdated, in many different threads.

I don't mean to sound critical but these lights are high-end lights, beautifully made and the cost reflects that. I really think that Dave aka data should provide some simple user-guides for each version.

Well I would go so far given the frustration I have gone through, despite doing a lot of reading and video watching--that I could not recommend this $1325 light to a new user until a proper guide is provided--because without knowing how to use all of the exquisite programming features, you are not getting your money's worth. You cannot even have it display the latest 3300mA output until you go through a lot of outdated nonsense.

I don't mean to sound as negative as I know that sounds, and I apologize in advance, but I think Dave needs to hear this straight on coming from someone who has used hundreds of custom lights over the last 8 years, and in the constructive manner I am intending. You don't want someone's first experience with your creation to be filled with such angst and frustration. A clear manual of all the features, and some current videos should be available with a programmable light like this.

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

Lux, I too had major trouble when I got my SWGG Spy XPG. I just wasn't quite as vocal about it as you are.

Once you get the hang of it, you or anyone who owns a spy will be programming all six levels in about 2 minutes on the fly. Changing banks depending on the situation, and checking voltage, etc. I feel your pain.

So yes, when programming the levels, I count it out loud rotating the knob from P1> 1mA, 10ma, 100ma (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 200ma (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 300ma (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 400ma (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 500ma, then back to P0, that level is set to 500mA.

 

[Frank1967]

To add to my confusion in trying to understand how the PU4 programming for Spy XM-L2 works, there was this earlier post from Data in this thread:



Then I got a PM from Frank who also just got his Spy, and he gave me his perfect guide which he was certain worked with his XM-L2:



Now the strange part for me as a new user is that both methods work. To help future new users, Frank's guide is much clearer, because it includes the mA for all the buttons, and the types of flashing & time estimate (9 sec) for choosing switch location.

One thing I would add with my model is that the completion step at P0 where the programmed values are calibrated does not turn off the LED when done. Rather it leaves the LED with a very faint white glow (maybe about 0.0005mA) that goes away once you advance to P1 and back to P0. I did not see this mentioned anywhere, but since the light did not turn completely off, I assumed I messed up the programming somehow.

I bet Dave is just thrilled that I got one of these now! LOL!

Yep I too remember the faint glow. I just want to enjoy the light before experimenting again. I really think the way I described is really easy to remember. I explained it all to you Lux from memory after doing it the day before. I am also surprised a clear Manual/Thread is not included/posted for each and every variant. That video I watched with the Tri-V2 would have driven me to insanity if I didn't stop it!