Programming the SPY007 XM-L

[LuxLuthor]

Lux, I too had major trouble when I got my SWGG Spy XPG. I just wasn't quite as vocal about it as you are.

Once you get the hang of it, you or anyone who owns a spy will be programming all six levels in about 2 minutes on the fly. Changing banks depending on the situation, and checking voltage, etc. I feel your pain.

So yes, when programming the levels, I count it out loud rotating the knob from P1> 1mA, 10ma, 100ma (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 200ma (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 300ma (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 400ma (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 500ma, then back to P0, that level is set to 500mA.

I tried to be as respectfully constructive in my comments as I can be, and as is often the case, if I failed to say it the way I meant it, added an apology to Dave in advance. :wave:

I figured he has spent an unbelievable amount of time getting these Spy lights so perfected and improved, that making the guide so people know how to use and fully appreciate them is an essential part of his product. Even videos would work if they were correlated to the actual model.

PSM, so your technique sounds like another variation from what Frank described, rather than his "rocking back" all the way to P1, you just rock back a single position, like in your example of adding up to 500mA you went from P4 to P3 to P4 to P3 until you hit P4 for the 5th time, then back to P0.

If you don't mind, could you please describe how you would set P3 to 224mA, as I'm not sure how you go all the way down to single digits.

I'm especially not sure how you set more than one switch position during a single PU4 episode.

Another question I had is if you completely screw up one position, but you don't want to trash all your other work with a PU3 reset, does repeating a single position programming add mA to the previous setting, or completely replace it? For example, if I somehow ended up with P6 set to 3000mA, would going from P6 to P1 to P4-rock back-P4-rock back-P4 then P0 add 300mA to my P6 3000mA, or replace it with P6 only being 300mA now?

Thanks again!

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

Lux, you did not come across rash at all, well worded posts.

224mA, OK, lets say you wanted that for slot three. Here we go.

PU4>Rock back once to P3, keep it there until solid, rock back all the way to P1 (rapid flash).

I count it out loud rotating the knob from P1> 1mA, 10ma, 100ma (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 200ma Then rock back to P1 rapid flash. Now you have 200mA so far.

I count it out loud rotating the knob from P1> 1mA, 10ma (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 20mA. Then rock back to P1 rapid flash Now you have 220mA

I count it out loud rotating the knob from P1> 1mA (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 2mA. (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 3mA. (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 4mA.

Now you have 224mA, rock back to P0 to set this amperage as level 3. While blinking, move to another knob position to set another level. You can set all six levels as many times as you want, when you want to quit, let the blinking expire while knob is on P0.


Hope this helps.

 

[Data]

There is a lot of history in the changes over the years and it is difficult even for me to keep it all straight. The complete lack of a proper manual for the XM-L2 is a problem. The various lights and software revisions do need their own user manuals, no doubt about it.

We had a pretty good CPF member created User Manual at one point but it is outdated now. A lot of people put in lots of time to get that thing right. But maybe even it should have been split into a couple separate lights.

Now here, this thread is titled Programming the SPY 007 XM-L. Yet most of the chatter lately is about the 007 XM-L2. That is pretty confusing. I recommend the creation a new thread.

I plan to remedy this problem as soon as I can with new manuals for each light and put them in separate threads. YouTube videos are a really good way to convey these programming concepts too.


Cheers
Dave

 

[Data]

. . . after you finish any PU4 and go back to P0 and wait for it to finish its CAL and turn off....mine never turns off. It leaves a very faint glow...maybe like 0.001mA (or less). If I go to P1, then back to P0, then it is 100% off . . .

This is proper function. The light has to be cycled here to get it to shut off. This is also true when simply performing any PU0 to PU6. They all need to be cycled one time to get the light to go into deep sleep.


Cheers
Dave

 

[Data]

Lux, you did not come across rash at all, well worded posts. . . .

+1

The squeaky wheel . . . :tinfoil:

 

[LuxLuthor]

Lux, you did not come across rash at all, well worded posts.

224mA, OK, lets say you wanted that for slot three. Here we go.

PU4>Rock back once to P3, keep it there until solid, rock back all the way to P1 (rapid flash).

I count it out loud rotating the knob from P1> 1mA, 10ma, 100ma (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 200ma Then rock back to P1 rapid flash. Now you have 200mA so far.

I count it out loud rotating the knob from P1> 1mA, 10ma (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 20mA. Then rock back to P1 rapid flash Now you have 220mA

I count it out loud rotating the knob from P1> 1mA (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 2mA. (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 3mA. (Then rock back one position, then forth a position), 4mA.

Now you have 224mA, rock back to P0 to set this amperage as level 3. While blinking, move to another knob position to set another level. You can set all six levels as many times as you want, when you want to quit, let the blinking expire while knob is on P0.


Hope this helps.

PSM, that is perfect! I have adopted that method of saying the mA out loud. Your help is REALLY appreciated, and that is EXACTLY what I needed. My wife walked by asked:"What are you saying?" Of course, I lost track of where I was and had to start over. LOL! I know once I see how the various functions work, it is then simple going forward.

Frank, and all the people in this thread have been exquisite, kind, and generous. It represents the best of what this forum can be for each other.

Dave, thanks for being magnanimous with all my confusion and frustration. I'll look forward to helping with any guides. So far, this thread has the most information about the XM-L2.

Now the best news is that tonight I was able to see the incredible performance of this light outside as I took it on a dog walk before making this post. That 3300mA setting is stunning with these IMR's. Can't get over all the functions this has. Really fabulous work.

 

[easilyled]

Snip "I plan to remedy this problem as soon as I can with new manuals for each light and put them in separate threads. YouTube videos are a really good way to convey these programming concepts too."

Cheers
Dave

I was thinking that it would be useful to have just one thread with instructions for each version inside it - even the version itself is confusing and it would be nice if it could be clarified according to the emitter used and the STFU.

Also, although the youtube videos are useful, please also have full written instructions. Any web-link can become obsolete, the written instructions can be printed out as a hardcopy.

Please make this a single Sticky Thread at the top of the Cool Fall Forum.

 

[LuxLuthor]

From the XM-L2 Sales Thread (temporarily closed)

The only hard thing left for me is trying to get the cap back on before I lose the blinking timed period. It's easy to misalign the battery cap and get twisted it on the side pegs.

Lux, I found if you hold the cap tilted with one spring hitting battery then engage pegs and then level out making contact with other battery and engage lock.

I have tried that several times now, touching the spring opposite the release switch, and that does make it a LOT easier. Thanks

 

[PoliceScannerMan]

PSM, that is perfect! I have adopted that method of saying the mA out loud. Your help is REALLY appreciated, and that is EXACTLY what I needed. My wife walked by asked:"What are you saying?" Of course, I lost track of where I was and had to start over. LOL! I know once I see how the various functions work, it is then simple going forward.

No problem Lux, you've helped me over the years as well.

 

[Frank1967]

From the XM-L2 Sales Thread (temporarily closed)



I have tried that several times now, touching the spring opposite the release switch, and that does make it a LOT easier. Thanks

Funny I have not experienced this problem ever with mine. It goes on perfect for me. It could be your aging eyes....or too much BACON! :>)

 

[CMAG]

Lux, as they say no pain no gain:devil:. My first spy xml I spent hours just to figure out that PU stood for power up
Anyway thanks for all your well worded questions and to all that have answered them, learned some new tricks

 

[Zandar]

Just thought I'd mention another little trick, what Dave calls an idiot proof way to get to 3300 mA. All the 007 Spy's have a maxium current limit built into the computer board (Stu Fu) to protect the light. What this means is that you can't key in more power than this maxium limit in any programming level. So to program in 3300 mA into position 6, you can just do a PU4 (led flashing) quickly move the knob to P6, Wait till the pulsing stops, turn the knob to P1 then just key in the sequence "P5 P4" a total of 4 times or more and then turn to P0. Then wait for the light to calibrate and go into it's new "glow mode", which is a new feature of the XML-2 computer board. Finally turn it on and off to extinguish the led. Even if you loose track of how many times you put in the "P5 P4" sequence and go beyond 3300 mA limit ( more than four, P5 P4 combos) the light automatically defaults to it's maximum of 3300 mA. Off course this method kind of defeats counting knob position clicks.

 

[LuxLuthor]

Lux. The locking needs to be done very rapidly. I usually use the palm of my hands as a runway where I will roll the rotary dial from P0 down my palm and when it would not roll anymore, I immediately roll back from P6 back to P0. If you try to use your fingers to turn the dial, most time you will get stuck somewhere.

Once this is completed, you can try to turn the light on. If the lockout is activated, you should just see the emitter blink once and then you get nothing.

If you can still get light, then do the roll thing again and if it still lights up, you need to do a PU2.

I love that lockout feature. I have a very geeky friend who always looks forward to visiting and seeing what is the latest tech thing. I handed him the locked LM2, and he fiddled with it for 10 mins like it was a Rubik's Cube. Exasperated, he said OK I give up. I turned away from him, did the quick palm unlock and handed it back before he saw what I did. When I started showing him the various features, he was truly astounded. It is now on his list of things to buy.

 

[BenChiew]

Lux. Glad to hear that little trick made you the champion of the day. I am sure there will be many more to come.

 

[Obijuan Kenobe]

So does the XML (not XML2) Spy have a lock out feature? I guess it is not the cool spin to 6 and back again lock?

After this thread was diluted with all sorts of XML2 information (by a moderator no less), it is difficult to follow when you guys are talking about your most recent purchase, or the OP's XML Spy.

Where should I go to get the basic info of how an XML Spy works? I know this is also discussed in this thread, but most posts only agree there should be a basic list. There must be a few things that fall into a category titled: 'Universal and Unchanged since the XXX model are the following basics to using a SPY".

That being said, I might have my first Spy (XML) next week sometime. Wow. I hope I like it!?

Found something sorta handy as an intro here: http://www.youtube.com/user/badtziscool?feature=watch

obi

 

[jojobos]

Hey Obi XM-L has a lockout feature.

Check here
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...SPY-007-Instruction-Manual-a-joint-CPF-effort

007 XM-L is Rel 3.X and the difference(U.I) from Rel 2.X are power-up-1,4, and 5.

So scroll down to
"This is a quick guide to the various modes (Rel 3.X): only sections that are different from rel 2.X of the firmware will be covered."
for those features.

The rest of it are same as 2.X.

 

[Obijuan Kenobe]

Here's a question.

PU2. Activate lock. Now I can turn it on and off with the three quick on-off's in succession.

As far as I understand, now I can use the lock regardless of what I do (PU4, PU1, PU0, PU5, PU6)...until I do a PU2 again, at which point I will NOT be able to use the three quick on-off's to activate the lock until I do yet another PU2.

Does this sound right?

obi

 

[chipwillis]

sounds right to me.

 

[BenChiew]

It will also go off if you do a factory reset.

 

[Obijuan Kenobe]

And position 5 is 1000mA during PU4 programming?

Was it always there or added for TriV and thus also then on the XML?

Just getting a little over curious perhaps...but I think I get the logic of Dave's UI.

obi