Just for "bling"?
OK. No.
Yes, Ti doesn't conduct heat quite as well as Al, and has a slightly higher electrical resistance than Al. True. But irrelevant. It conducts both heat and electricity
more than well enough for the demands being placed upon it by any small, reasonable wattage flashlight. I mean, by these arguments, we should all be using copper because it is more conductive than aluminum! Give me a break! I mean, yes, if you are absolutely pushing the envelope and are forcing a lot of current through a bunch of high powered LED's, then, no, you don't want a Titanium head. But short of that, the lower heat conductivity of Titanium has little effect on the total heat transfer situation, and that's because the bottleneck for heat transfer is at the air/body junction (or hand/body junction), which involves not just conductive heat transfer but also radiative heat transfer (where Ti does quite well!), and where the heat transfer rate is the lowest of the whole system.
It's like saying that we need a five lane highway going up to a one lane bridge because a four lane highway doesn't carry as much traffic as a five lane highway. HELLO! It doesn't frigging matter because all the cars are backed up at the bridge anyway.
This is why heat sinks have all those fins on them to increase the surface area, which is like adding more lanes to the bridge, and it's also why the aluminum on heat sinks is anodized. The anodizing has a really crappy heat conductivity, but that is a trade off in order to gain a
greater radiative heat transfer via a higher emissivity rating.
So yes, there's no question that if heat transfer really were a serious concern (like in a heat sink), you wouldn't use Titanium, but it's also true that heat transfer at the flashlight body is NOT a serious concern. At the LED die/heat sink junction, the story is different, and you want aluminum there, and all the Titanium lights I know of do indeed have aluminum heat sinks in contact with the LED dies, but after that, Titanium is no problem.
As for electrical conductivity, the amount of material involved in the conduction pathway is
enormous--way, way bigger than electrical house wiring rated for 20 amps!--so the total resistance of
both a titanium and aluminum bodied flashlight is so low as to be irrelevant.
But, what IS relevant in terms of electrical conductivity is
contact resistance, and it's the reason why almost all aluminum lights are Chemkoted. They have to be. A bare aluminum to bare aluminum interface is prone to developing very high resistance, especially if it comes in contact with various elements. If I go out right now to a bunch of bar stock and try to measure the resistance of a length of it with a DMM, I would put my money on the titanium bar over the aluminum bar any frickin day of the week! That aluminum will probably have a high resistance surface film--an oxide. No fun.
Titanium, in sharp contrast, has a surface oxide that is nicely conductive.
So, no need to Chemkote. It's conductive through and through.
As for "bling", well, yes, Titanium does look and feel awesome. I (and many others) love it. But practically speaking, there is a much greater advantage to be gained in using titanium than looks: durability. If I drop an HA light onto concrete or any other hard surface chances are good I'll knock off a flake of hard anodize. This simply can't be repaired. Knock off enough of it, and the soft aluminum underneath wears away relatively quickly. Think I'm exaggerating? I used to think this line of argument was hyperbole too, at one point, but then I saw what had become of my brother's Arc AAA-LE. Almost all the HA was missing from it, and the bare aluminum there on the knurling points was worn away, leaving a very shiny, pretty smooth, and fairly ugly looking Arc AAA. And this was only three years of EDC carry on a keychain. Not really what I had expected from the vaunted HARD ANODIZE.
As McGizmo said in another thread--and I totally agree--it's nice to know that you will stop using a light because
you got tired of it, and not because it got tired and worn. Titanium, being one thing through and through, can be completely resurfaced and reworked, even after a horrific marring and deformation of the surface. Here's a great example. Here are a pair of before and after pictures of a light which was being carried when the person got in a motorcycle accident. (The important thing is that he wasn't seriously injured, BTW) Check out what happened to his Ti-PD:
Nasty marks on the light! Not really very appealing. But, after some filing and sanding and metal working and polishing, look what happened:
Try that with an aluminum HA light!
Titanium is just a very, very appealing metal, both visually and tactilely. It looks great, it feels great. If that's "bling", well, OK, sign me up. But it's really not "bling". Bling is just "man jewelry", and a titanium light is far more than just that. You know that your Titanium light is
going to last. Yes, if the circuit board is crap and isn't properly secured and you smack your light onto concrete, titanium won't make a bit of difference, but at least in the case of a McGizmo light you know that that link in the chain is just as well forged as all the other links in the chain.
I have dropped my LunaSol 20 onto a very very hard surface (ceramic) and it was completely unfazed and unaffected. Don's Titanium lights are known for being very drop resistant in general, in fact.
So . . .
Do you
need to use Titanium? No. And you shouldn't use it if cost is a factor.
But if cost is no object do you
want a titanium light over an HA aluminum light?
HELL YES! But that's just me, I guess.
I wonder, though, how many of the anti-titanium posters here on CPF have actually
used and handled a titanium light for more than a few minutes? It seems to me that most people who experience a titanium light aren't really interested in going back and find the extra expense to be well worth it.
Just a thought. YMMV.