Best flashlight for under $50

[Egsise]

Eagletac dealers offer optional recessed stand-up tailcaps for the P100/P20 and T100/T20 series

Eagletac-USA

I know, but the OP has 50$ limit for the light.

 

[wingnut86]

If your leaning towards an EagleTac, I just received an e-mail from them saying the LED modules for the P20A2 MKII, P20C2 MKII and the T20C2 MKII will be available for less than $25. Mike at PTS also said that they are expecting them to be in sometime in March. This would make the two lights I mentioned, Upgradeable. As of now, I think the first ones to be available will be the XP-G R5 and the XP-E Q4 Neutral white, both smooth and textured reflectors I would imagine.

The two main factors that could cause one to pay the higher price for the T20C2 MKII rather than the P20C2 MKII is the fact that the T20C2 accepts 18650's, and that it has quite a bit more throw.

I personally love the size of the P20C2. It's the exact same length as my Surefire G2, but it's quite a bit narrower, just not too narrow though.

Here is a review for the T20C2 MKII.

And one for the P20C2 MKII as well.

There is a good chance that that site has a review for some of the other lights that you are pondering.


But if AA's are your thing, the P100A2 and the P20A2 MKII would be great choices as well....

 

[jbrett14]

damn hammer, you have given me reason to reconsider a AA model, even after I was leaning toward a 123 model.

Thanks for making this even more difficult. Ha! Seriously, thank you very much for the suggestions. I will look into them.

Note to anyone wanting to help in my quest: Although I did post "best flashlight for UNDER $50", I think I could be pursuaded to spend a bit more (maybe $60 or so) if the right light was at that cost, and considering some discounts.

Another question: How come none of these lights come with a thumb-operated clickie on the side of the light, rather than the end? Seems more logical (& ergonomical) to me to be able to operate the light while holding it as most folks hold a flashlight (in the most comfortable and natural position).

 

[jbrett14]

Here is a review for the T20C2 MKII.

And one for the P20C2 MKII as well.

There is a good chance that that site has a review for some of the other lights that you are pondering.
....

Wingnut, I appreciate all of your posts.

I have spent a good amount of time at that website - GREAT site!

Jonny

 

[Egsise]

Another question: How come none of these lights come with a thumb-operated clickie on the side of the light, rather than the end? Seems more logical (& ergonomical) to me to be able to operate the light while holding it as most folks hold a flashlight (in the most comfortable and natural position).

Hold yes, but you don't need the click click clickety click it all the time so it doesn't bother even if the clicky is at the end.
And I would guess that tailcap switch is the cheapest and easiest way to manufacture a switch.

 

[Toaster]

Some thoughts....

What if you happen to drop your flashlight and it hits the ground with button first....
T100C2: no any kind of protection to button
TK20: yeah of course the button is recessed and well protected against accidents like that

LOL I've seen people grasping at straws to justify their purchase before. But bringing up button drop durability as an issue is a first In a drop, the tailcap is not likely to be damaged. The bezel and lens is far more likely to be damaged, followed by the driver as both are not usually shock insulated by a spring and are usually at the heavy end of the light which strikes first. Just look at Surefire's lights and see how many have a protruding tailcap. If it was an issue, they would have stopped making it that way a long time ago.


To the OP, the benefits of a non protruding tailcap are tailstanding capability + reduced chance of accidental pocket activation. The benefits of a protruding tailcap are easy activation of light under all conditions, easy manipulation with gloved hands, and easy manipulation with fat fingers. It's for that reason that just about any light with a tactical focus does not come with a recessed switch. So pick what appeals most to you based on features, and not based on some unfounded durability concerns. Anyways with the Eagletacs as has been mentioned, you are not stuck either way. The XP-G models include a boot that allows for tailstanding. The 100 series can be ordered with a tailstanding tailcap (1, 2) if you prefer.


Anyhow I'm a bit puzzled by your inclination towards the P20C2 MKII. It is by far the least throwiest of the lights you are considering which I thought was the most important factor for you?

 

[Egsise]

LOL I've seen people grasping at straws to justify their purchase before. But bringing up button drop durability as an issue is a first In a drop, the tailcap is not likely to be damaged. The bezel and lens is far more likely to be damaged, followed by the driver as both are not usually shock insulated by a spring and are usually at the heavy end of the light which strikes first. Just look at Surefire's lights and see how many have a protruding tailcap. If it was an issue, they would have stopped making it that way a long time ago.

One reason why I bought the TK20 and not TK11 was how the switch was protected.
And trust me, I have dropped my TK20 from heights that would brake a protruding switch.
So far there are no bezel, lens or driver problems, perhaps the TK20 is better built than the other lights that you meant?
To me a protruding switch is an accident waiting to happen.

The TK20 switch is quite easy to operate even with gloves.
The tailstanding capability sucks, it's wobbly.

 

[Toaster]

One reason why I bought the TK20 and not TK11 was how the switch was protected.
And trust me, I have dropped my TK20 from heights that would brake a protruding switch.

I've tried to figure out what kind of point you're trying to make here, but I'm not seeing it. But I'll humor you for the moment. What height can you drop your light from that will break a protruding tailcap, but would not harm the lens or bezel? I'm curious to hear about this as you seem to be very focused on the non-business end of the light as the major durability concern in a fall.

So far there are no bezel, lens or driver problems, perhaps the TK20 is better built than the other lights that you meant?

Dude you crack me up. So if I understand correctly, you logic is: "My TK20 has not broke, therefore it must be better built than other lights." Am I getting this right? You're either making some stupendous leaps in logic, or else you have a very low standard when it comes to flashlights :laughing: The TK20 is certainly a tough light. Tough enough that it won't be a concern for most users. But you're deluding yourself if you think it's anywhere near as indestructible as the best built lights on the market.

 

[Egsise]

I understand that you are a surefire user so let's just leave it here.

 

[vali]

But you're deluding yourself if you think it's anywhere near as indestructible as the best built lights on the market.

Yeah, but McGuizmos are a bit over $50

 

[jbrett14]

To the OP, the benefits of a non protruding tailcap are tailstanding capability + reduced chance of accidental pocket activation. The benefits of a protruding tailcap are easy activation of light under all conditions, easy manipulation with gloved hands, and easy manipulation with fat fingers. It's for that reason that just about any light with a tactical focus does not come with a recessed switch. So pick what appeals most to you based on features, and not based on some unfounded durability concerns. Anyways with the Eagletacs as has been mentioned, you are not stuck either way. The XP-G models include a boot that allows for tailstanding. The 100 series can be ordered with a tailstanding tailcap (1, 2) if you prefer.


Anyhow I'm a bit puzzled by your inclination towards the P20C2 MKII. It is by far the least throwiest of the lights you are considering which I thought was the most important factor for you?

Excellent points for sure. Makes sense to me. Thanks.

I was unaware that the P20C2 was the "least throwiest of the lights". This is why I have spent so much time researching. Although there is much INFO (charts, graphs, words, etc.) about these lights on the reviews, etc. there are very few, if any, real life beam shots, taken in the real outdoor world.

Yes, throw is very important to me, but not to the point of having a light that can only zoom in on a small target. I personally hate lights that are so focused on throw that they offer very little spill light to light up what is around me (e.g. hiking at night). But from what I am finding, most all of these lights seem to offer plenty of spill.

What would really be most helpful for me is to see a comparison of beamshots to a light that I have already used in the field (Streamlight Argo HD headlight or Streamlight ProPoly 4AA Luxeon). I am very familiar with the light output of these two lights. I would love to see some kind of usefull comparison from ANY of the lights suggested in this thread to one of these two lights that I am familiar with. I wouldn't want a light with any less spill than either of these two lights. If I could find a light with equal spill as these SL's but much more throw, I would be more than satisfied.

Thanks for your post. You made some VERY valid arguments about the clickie switch. I won't worry about it being recessed because I don't really care if a light can stand on it's end. I have never needed this feature in the real world of where I plan to use the light.

Jonny

 

[jbrett14]

To me a protruding switch is an accident waiting to happen.

In theory, I think like you do. But I am curious if you know of any real life examples of these swithes failing due to protuding. Like toaster stated, if this were a real problem the manufacturers probably would not be making them this way.

Any thoughts?

I appreciate your input.

That TK20 does look like a sweet light. I have not ruled it out.

Jonny

 

[Toaster]

I was unaware that the P20C2 was the "least throwiest of the lights". This is why I have spent so much time researching. Although there is much INFO (charts, graphs, words, etc.) about these lights on the reviews, etc. there are very few, if any, real life beam shots, taken in the real outdoor world.

I know it's not as useful as a real life reference. But as an objective measurement, the square root of peak lux measured equates to how much "throw" a light has. Or as a simple rule of thumb, doubling peak lux gives you ~40% increase in throw.

Yes, throw is very important to me, but not to the point of having a light that can only zoom in on a small target. I personally hate lights that are so focused on throw that they offer very little spill light to light up what is around me (e.g. hiking at night). But from what I am finding, most all of these lights seem to offer plenty of spill.

I think what's confusing you is that while some of these lights are being described as throwy, none of them can be classified as dedicated throwers. Those are much bigger lights with large reflectors, pencil thin beams, and very little sidespill like the Dereelight DBS, Tiablo A10, Jetbeam Raptor RRT-1, etc. That's a completely different class of light as opposed to what's been recommended here so far.

What would really be most helpful for me is to see a comparison of beamshots to a light that I have already used in the field (Streamlight Argo HD headlight or Streamlight ProPoly 4AA Luxeon). I am very familiar with the light output of these two lights. I would love to see some kind of usefull comparison from ANY of the lights suggested in this thread to one of these two lights that I am familiar with. I wouldn't want a light with any less spill than either of these two lights. If I could find a light with equal spill as these SL's but much more throw, I would be more than satisfied.

The Propoly 4AA luxeon has a dimmer spill than any of the lights that have been recommended. If that is your cutoff point, you have nothing to worry about.

Anyhow from what I've seen so far in this thread, of the Eagletacs I think you'd probably be happiest just springing for the 380 lumen T20C2 MKII XP-G R5 even though it's a little more than you wanted to spend. It has everything that you want. Crazy high output, good throw, bright wide spill, and long runtime. The P20C2 MKII doesn't have the throw or runtime you're looking for. The T100C2 lacks the bright wide spill you seem to want. And the P100C2 lacks the long runtime you asked for.

 

[jbrett14]

Toaster, I really appreciate that last post. I do want to comment on your last paragraph but I need to get home first. I'll comment tonight.

Thanks a bunch.

Jonny

 

[jugornot]

The TK20 is a great light. I have 2. I can't speak for the eagletac as I don't have one. For a little more you can move up to the dereelight javelin. It is a pretty amazing light. for xpg r5 it is $63. Further with minimal investment it is very customizable. 3xAA, Smo reflector. buy a c2h body (I think $12 was mentioned) and you can move into many different battery combination's. Not to mention it is a p60 host, so as new emitters become available you can upgrade. Just thought I would mention it. It has a very good throw with good spill. 300 lumens out the front with 3xAA. It makes a lot of sense for deciding what you like. Everything looks out of stock right now which says much about its popularity. There are promises of a new shipment next week.

 

[jbrett14]

Anyhow from what I've seen so far in this thread, of the Eagletacs I think you'd probably be happiest just springing for the 380 lumen T20C2 MKII XP-G R5 even though it's a little more than you wanted to spend. It has everything that you want. Crazy high output, good throw, bright wide spill, and long runtime. The P20C2 MKII doesn't have the throw or runtime you're looking for. The T100C2 lacks the bright wide spill you seem to want. And the P100C2 lacks the long runtime you asked for.

I suspect the T20 is indeed the one I might like the best of this bunch (hard to tell until I see some better photos of beams in the outdoor world). However, according to the reviews, it actually has the worst runtime of the bunch. The P20 actually has a longer runtime on CR123's. The P100 actually has the best runtime.

Approx. ratings, according to the reviews:
Lumens \ Runtime (2 x CR123) \ High Spot Lux

P100C2 : 220 \ 2.5 Hr. \ 7470
T100 C2 MK II : 220 \ 2.5 Hr. \ 11760

P20C2 MK II : 305 \ 1.75 Hr. \ 5140
T20C2 MK II : 294 \ 1.5 Hr. \ 8180

I am assuming that High Spot Lux is the indicator for throw ability.

Since I have been using my Streamlight Argo, which is a great light, yet only about 55 lumens of light, I am now wondering if any one of these lights, even the P100, which is the least expensive, would be plenty sufficient for what I want.

Is it safe to assume that a 220 lumen light is 4 times brighter than my 55 lumen Argo or is it not that obvious?

Jonny

 

[jbrett14]

Out of curiousity, and desiring to learn more about how lights are reviewed, why is it that the P20 & T20 get lower scores (light-reviews) for light output than the P100 & T100?

This surprises me, given that the 20's are using an "improved" Cree.

Jonny

 

[jhc37013]

For those that have both the T20C2 MKII and P20 MKII could you compare the spill size and the size of the hotspot, this might help the OP a little bit more.

I suspect the the hotspot is going to be much smaller for better throw and the spill is going to be narrower with the T20C2. If this is indeed true then the P20 would light up a wider area at closer range both in the spill and on target with the hot spot. This is just something you may want to consider, that and the size difference.

 

[jbrett14]

Anyone have experience with this light:

http://www.light-reviews.com/itp_c6_tactical/

One place has it listed for only $35

Jonny

 

[jhc37013]

I always wanted to pick a iTP c6 I always thought they looked really cool and the specs seems pretty good. I guess because its around 6" long and over 1.5" at bezel I never pulled the trigger. I still might one day though.