Best flashlight for under $50

[Egsise]

jbrett14 those lumens and runtimes were with cool white leds, for outdoors I would use neutral white led, the difference is huge.

 

[csa]

Another question: How come none of these lights come with a thumb-operated clickie on the side of the light, rather than the end? Seems more logical (& ergonomical) to me to be able to operate the light while holding it as most folks hold a flashlight (in the most comfortable and natural position).

Nobody answered this with the most important point: you can never FIND the switch on the body without fiddling around. Most of us like our light to come on right away when we need it, and the only place on the whole light that is obvious and always the same is the end. If we're shining them at walls, sure, we know where the switch is before we use it, but pull any light out of a pocket or bag, the way you actually use it, and tell me which one comes on more quickly and conveniently. Rolling the light around looking for the switch is just silly.

 

[jbrett14]

jbrett14 those lumens and runtimes were with cool white leds, for outdoors I would use neutral white led, the difference is huge.

When you say "the difference is huge", do you mean the difference in the quality of light, or do you mean the difference of lumens and runtimes being huge?

I do like the neutral better for outdoors but I did not think the lumens and runtime would be that big of a difference. Less, perhaps, but not huge.

Jonny

 

[hyperloop]

When you say "the difference is huge", do you mean the difference in the quality of light, or do you mean the difference of lumens and runtimes being huge?

I do like the neutral better for outdoors but I did not think the lumens and runtime would be that big of a difference. Less, perhaps, but not huge.

Jonny

the difference if i am correct, would be in the rendition of color, difference in lumens is definitely there as well, but the largest difference is IMHO in the color rendition, take a look here to see a simple comparison between 2 similar lights (Romisen RC N3) one with a Q5 and the other with a warm white.

 

[waddup]

imo, the best flashlight for $50 is buying a used $100 light.... for $50

 

[Anak]

As a newbie looking into the Solarforce lights, where is the best place to purchase online?

TIA

 

[Egsise]

Both I guess.

The neutral white leds are less efficient than cool white, the average difference is something like -25%?
I think the Eagletac rating of 200 lumens from neutral led vs 220 lumens from cool white may be a little optimistic, it would be great to see some lightbox comparisons of those two models to confirm the actual difference.
Runtimes are the same cause the driver is the same, so the difference is only in brightness.

For the difference in the color of the light, well you just need to see it yourself.
Led flashlight users who have cool white leds are ok with the color.
Many of those who have seen a real life side by side comparison of the cool vs neutral, prefer the neutral white for outdoors.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2654418&postcount=269
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3242715&postcount=5
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3094372&postcount=47

For the protruding tailcap switch failures, it happens, but not that much that it would be a problem, I guess thats cause they are very cheap to replace.
I just don't like the idea of my flashlight switch failing in the middle of nowhere.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Murphy's_law

 

[orbital]

+

The T100C2 MkII SMO/neutral is the only light I have two of.

It's a Top 5 light under $100,... and easily the Best light under $50!!

 

[Padre]

Would love to hear your opinions on what would be the best overall flashlight for under $50.

My preferences would be:

1) AA or 123 batteries
2) Throw \ runtime \ light output (in order of importance)
3) Clickie

Main uses would be for camping & hiking.

I was researching the Fenix L2D-CE. Is this an old model? How does it compare to the Streamlight Stylus Pro? or the Streamlight ProPoly Lux 4AA?

Added note regarding #. 2 above: Although these are listed in order of importance, all three are important to me. Hence the reason I listed them at all. Things that are not important to me were not listed at all, e.g. housing material, color, knurling, whether the light can stand up on it's end, etc.

Thanks!

For the money and quality and output you can't beat the MTE C3-907. I have one and love it. Just be sure to buy it from an authorized US distributer so you don't get a phony one. Max 170 Lumens. Great Light my EDC.

 

[jbrett14]

+

The T100C2 MkII SMO/neutral is the only light I have two of.

It's a Top 5 light under $100,... and easily the Best light under $50!!

Your vote is consistent with the majority opinion in this thread. The T100C2 has now received the most votes, hands down, getting almost half the votes, with the TK20, P20C2, & P100C2 getting the majority of the other half.

One thing is clear - the EagleTac lights are by far the ones most recommended by those who have posted in here.

I wish I had seen this earlier:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/235171

Although the reviews are fantastic for the runtime graphs, etc. there is nothing like having real world photos of beamshots.

Jonny

 

[wingnut86]

I wish I had seen this earlier:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/235171

Although the reviews are fantastic for the runtime graphs, etc. there is nothing like having real world photos of beamshots.

Jonny

Just remember that the P20A2, P20C2 and T20C2 MKII's will have a different beam than the ones pictured. The P100C2 looks to have a beautiful beam though. I think of the recommended EagleTac's, the T100C2 MKII will most likely be the most "Bullet Proof" of the bunch, probably along the lines of the Fenix TK series lights. Although my P20C2 seems pretty durable.

 

[jbrett14]

Thanks wingnut.

The more I think this thing through, the more I realize that I should have defined my personal perceptions of a good "runtime".

When reading flashlight specs, runtime numbers are provided, based on from the moment the light is turned on, to the point of diminishing to 50% output. Personally, I think there is a more important factor than just looking at these runtime numbers, which can be deceptive. This is why I love the graphs in the reviews.

I personally hate lights that start off really bright and then immediately start to diminish (the problem with incans). To me, any LED light that is like this, may as well be an incan light.

I would much rather have a light with a 2 hour runtime that maintained a nice flat constant output - the closer to 100% the better - for 1.5-2 hours, before starting to diminish, than a light that had a runtime of 4 hours which started to diminish after 30 minutes. This was the reason that I really loved my old Streamlight Propoly 4AA Luxeon. The thing maintained full brightness for like 4 hours or more - amazing regulation.

Based on this desire, it seems the AA models that have been suggested are becoming less appealing to me, compared to the longer constant high runtimes of the CR123 lights.

As far as the EagleTacs go, they all look pretty nice. If I had to base it strictly on the few beamshot photos that I have seen, I would probably go with one of the 20 Series over the 100 Series. But I am guessing that the smaller, lower priced P100C2 would probably be just fine since, like I said, I have been using a light with far fewer lumens and throw. I am just not sure about it lacking the ability to use the 18650 battery. I have never used these batteries so I don't know much about them or whether this is important.

Jonny

 

[Toaster]

I suspect the T20 is indeed the one I might like the best of this bunch (hard to tell until I see some better photos of beams in the outdoor world). However, according to the reviews, it actually has the worst runtime of the bunch. The P20 actually has a longer runtime on CR123's. The P100 actually has the best runtime.

If you're primarily using CR123s, then that is correct. However if you're using rechargeables, then the situation changes as the 18650 has significantly more capacity than 2xCR123s or 1x17670.

Is it safe to assume that a 220 lumen light is 4 times brighter than my 55 lumen Argo or is it not that obvious?

Our eyes don't work that way. It takes about 4x the output for a light to appear twice as bright.

Out of curiousity, and desiring to learn more about how lights are reviewed, why is it that the P20 & T20 get lower scores (light-reviews) for light output than the P100 & T100?

I suspect it's weighted against price and what else is currently available at the time the review was written.

As far as neutral LEDS are concerned. Imho it helps with color rendition. But so does more lumens. If you have a choice and the difference in output is not so huge, I would go with neutral white every time. But if there's a substantial gap, I'd go for the cool white. With the 100 series, the gap is small and I prefer the neutral white models. For the 20 series, the gap is massive and I would definitely go with the cool white models.

 

[damn_hammer]

I don't have the P20C2, or T20C2, but was surprised by the apparent difference in size between the two. Have a look see: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/263213

It's quite possible you've already seen that link, but just in case you haven't.

 

[nme]

I sent you a PM with the discount page.

can you PM me this page also? thanks.

 

[Benson]

Nobody answered this with the most important point: you can never FIND the switch on the body without fiddling around. Most of us like our light to come on right away when we need it, and the only place on the whole light that is obvious and always the same is the end. If we're shining them at walls, sure, we know where the switch is before we use it, but pull any light out of a pocket or bag, the way you actually use it, and tell me which one comes on more quickly and conveniently. Rolling the light around looking for the switch is just silly.

Doesn't have to be a problem, especially with plastic-bodied lights, where the switch side can be ribbed etc. to make it easy to feel at once. Definitely a good argument against Mag and similar -- smooth round body + more-or-less flush side-switch + gloves = rolling the thing around for 10 or 15 seconds looking for the switch.

Worst I ever had in this regard is a S&W Galaxy, with 9 5mm LEDs and 1 xenon bulb -- in a move of astonishing idiocy, they placed the two almost identical rubber-domed switches (one was smooth, one was slightly textured) exactly across from each other. If they'd put them 90 degrees apart, you could get to them both easily, and could orient it in your hand by feel to get them both accessible and know which was which. But 180 degrees? You never knew which was which till you turn it on. Fortunately, they were about the same brightness, so it didn't matter...

imo, the best flashlight for $50 is buying a used $100 light.... for $50

+1

 

[wingnut86]

smooth round body + more-or-less flush side-switch + gloves = rolling the thing around for 10 or 15 seconds looking for the switch.

Personally, I'd be embarrassed if it took me 10-15 seconds to find the switch on a Maglite, even with gloves on...Hell, I can change the batteries in 15 seconds.

 

[jbrett14]

A few more questions regarding the EagleTac T100C2 MKII:

I am unfamiliar with 18650 batteries, but understand that some have button ends and some are flat. Does it matter which kind are used in this light?

Once charged, how many days (approx.) will these batteries hold their charge without being used?

Is there any advantage to using CR123 batteries in this light instead of the 18650's?

 

[wingnut86]

A few more questions regarding the EagleTac T100C2 MKII:

I am unfamiliar with 18650 batteries, but understand that some have button ends and some are flat. Does it matter which kind are used in this light?

Once charged, how many days (approx.) will these batteries hold their charge without being used?

Is there any advantage to using CR123 batteries in this light instead of the 18650's?

For these lights you would need button ends. Li-ion will hold there charge for quite a long time, they are unlike nimh where they will discharge themselves.
I don't use my 18650's much any more, and just measured the voltage and it was 4.18 in both cells, 4.20 is fully charged, they probably haven't been used or charged for nearly 6 months or more.

In this particular light, the runtimes and regulation should be very close with both battery setups. There are a few advantages to using cr123a batteries, one being the storage life 10+ years, not having to recharge them ever...I hate recharging batteries, and not having to worry about them after they are dead. Usually another advantage of using CR123a's is that you get full regulation with regulated led lights, but the T100C2 MKII does that on 18650's too. If lithium AA's and CR123a cells cost the same as rayovac alkalines, I would never deal with rechargeables again...

If it is a light that you are going to use often, I would recommend Li-ions, but if it will be used not very often, I probably wouldn't even bother with the initial cost of Li-ions. A dozen Surefire CR123a's are only 30 bucks bought locally or shipped to your door. And two AW brand 18650's and his charger the WF-139, all from 4Sevens will come to $50.50. Granted you could get 2 trustfire 18650's and a cheap DSD charger from DX for a total of 15 bucks (the setup I have), and if your lucky, the cells will be quality ones with true capacity...

 

[Advil]

I'm in love with the Quark Mini 123. Pocket/keychain sized but fullsize powered.