EagleTac Clicky Ti

shelm

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Dec 8, 2011
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I keep all my o rings well lubed and threads cleaned with light lube.
i hardly use it because i never go swimming with my lights but for such cases, water-proofing, the best of the best "lube" is silicone grease. Both on the threads and the o-rings. Silicone grease is thick (very thick!) and sticky. professional divers use it too to water-proof their equipment.

i have it, works well to seal your flashlight threads and o-rings.
 

RonnieBarlow

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Aug 30, 2004
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I got mine.

It's my new EDC.

a6f9855b-11ec-0c07.jpg
 
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shelm

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OK, OK, I know I don't have the black clickies but maybe I'll stop here ... :ironic:
Very interesting compilation, i like it! We see 4 different form factors or diameter:length relations or proportions. We could now run a poll which diameter:length ratio appears to be the most harmonic and beautiful. Not too fatty (Sunawayman C10R) and not too slim (penlights, kate, moss) but about perfect. Of course the perception of perfect beauty depends on one's individual taste but it would be interesting to learn if one ratio is regarded as the most perfect by a majority of votes. Numbering from left to right: 1, 2, 3, 4, imho #1 looks too short (not fatty .. but too short!), #4 looks too long or slim, while both #3 and #2 look quite optimal and pleasing. If i had to choose between these two, i would choose the slimmer one (candidate #2) because to me the slimmer ones (after a Dr. Atkins diet) always look more attractive, more elegant, or sexier.

Too bad ;) that my #4 is still in transit and that it doesnt have the sexy proportions of #2!! Thanks for sharing the photo. Only ESC could do it better..
 
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EspionageStudio.Com

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Jun 10, 2012
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Finally, the pic I have been looking for! Thank you Kilovolt for sharing that beautiful family photo ;-) Shelm, I think #2 looks the most proportionate but in regular use I think I would take #4 just for the clicky. #3 is close, but a bit too short and fat imo. When I grab my light, I like to have the light in a closed fist, with my thumb on the button. The d25C I just felt was too short for me and the way I edc a light. I love the light though, I have made it my bedside nightstand light and don't plan on getting rid of it anytime soon. Lets hope yours arrives to you soon Shelm!
 

EspionageStudio.Com

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Mailman just dropped off D25A Clicky. Couldn't resist a few shots for the betterment of mankind.

D25A and D25C Clicky lights with D25M Ti Twisty AA for size comparison:
IMG_1010.jpg


Here is the AA Clicky and Twisty:
IMG_1011.jpg


Random Pics:
IMG_1012.jpg


Tailcap GITD:
IMG_1014.jpg


Tailcap uncharged:
IMG_1013.jpg


Both of my Ti clickies have an odd gap between the tail and the body tube?:
IMG_1015.jpg

IMG_1018.jpg

IMG_1017.jpg


Turned the lights off and the Lights on:
IMG_1024.jpg
 
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Adobo

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Jun 6, 2012
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I already have the cool AA version and I just ordered a neutral AA. Am I crazy? :naughty:
 

shelm

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Dec 8, 2011
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So many crazy people here :thumbsup:
Yet again nothing in my mail but i am very confident that this week's gonna be it.
Fantastic photos, ESC, thanks man!! ( How much time does it take for such a shooting session? )

Anyone tried 14500's in the AA version and compared its output with Xeno E03 or any other 14500 light (Balder, ..)?
 

Ualnosaj

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Feb 9, 2012
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807
The Eagletac gets really warm on 14500 really fast and isn't really suitable. It direct drives and medium essentially becomes like high.



________________
Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse the brevity of this email.
 

shelm

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Dec 8, 2011
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L91 is the way to go, plenty of light
Thanks for the info, i never had Energizer Ultimate Lithium L91 before, a 4-pack is at least ~7$ (6€) shipped on ebay/amazon, ouch. Question, is the D25A noticeably brighter on 1x L91 (nominal voltage is 1.5V) in comparison to 1x Eneloop (nominal voltage is 1.2V but freshly charged has 1.50V and is regarded empty at 1.20V resting voltage)?

Let's be honest, there is hardly any 1x 14500 light on the market which does not get hot on Max-mode (Turbo-mode). The Xeno E03 gets hot fast on 14500 too, the thick-walled Klarus P1A too, and the Quark X AA-body loaded with 14500 too. And I bet the Balder SE-1 too. And Sunawayman 1xAA probably too.

The Xeno E03 officially supports 14500 (runtime is ~20mins) but it does not mean that the user can leave it unattended in tailstand for more than 2 mins without burning her hands after this short time on High.
 

Kilovolt

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Mar 1, 2007
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I would say that yes, there is a noticeable difference in output between a NiMH (1.2V) and a lithium primary (1.7V). The max output is difficult to judge with the naked eye but what I can surely notice is that the low is much higher with the L91. :confused:

L91's are expensive here at my shopping center but surely not as much as you say probably because of the shipping costs. In any case I don't think this is a light to be used to stun friends at the local pub and a few lumens more or less don't make a great difference when walking the dog ... :D
 

Ualnosaj

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Feb 9, 2012
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807
The Xeno E03 officially supports 14500 (runtime is ~20mins) but it does not mean that the user can leave it unattended in tailstand for more than 2 mins without burning her hands after this short time on High.

The problem with the Eagletac is that it gets super hot a couple minutes -- attributed to the super slim (and thin walled!) size. I'd sooner trust my LD01 SS to run 10440 longer than the Eagletac on med->turbo with 14500.
 

shelm

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Dec 8, 2011
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I'd sooner trust my LD01 SS to run 10440 longer than the Eagletac
I have always been wondering why my LD01 R4 does not get any hot (warm yes but not hot!) on 10440. I run 10440 in my Fenix all the time. On Med (bright!) and on High (a little brighter!), and after some 20 mins i would have to recharge the cell anyway, so it's impossible to run the Fenix on Med or High for longer than 20-30mins anyway. No harm done so far. I love the Fenix!! Surely doesnt get as hot as for example the iTP A3 EOS with 10440!

So the D25A Ti gets really hot, huh? Maybe it has something to do with the good heat conduction:

snap3q.png


...which means that *one* has to control the dissipating heat with one's own cold hands. If the cooling succeeds e.g. on a cold winter evening, then one could run the 14500 for its full battery life because the circuit itself is designed to tolerate the high current (2.0A? 1.5A?) of the direct drive.
 

kaabob

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May 18, 2012
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Re: Eagtac Titanium Clicky

I've followed the advice of other to replace batteries by removing the head instead of the tailcap.
The threads seem very squeaky/in need of lube on my lights also. What have you all be using to lube it up?

Nyogel?
Krytox mix (pricey, but it's suppose to be the best for Ti lights?)

Feedback would be great!
First Ti flashlight I've bought. Ti virgin no more.
 
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