cdrake261
Enlightened
Sure, simple math
cheers,
george.
Phew! Didn't have any blue LEDs in 3mm at radio shack except square shaped ones at 20mA.
Thanks again George!
Caleb
H6Flex 6.6Amp Adjustable Buck
- Thread starter georges80
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Phew! Didn't have any blue LEDs in 3mm at radio shack except square shaped ones at 20mA.
Thanks again George!
Caleb
cdrake261
Enlightened
Hope you don't mind another question but came across an issue with my build, this won't mount to my heatsink unless I cut a lot of mass off of my heatsink(which I don't want to do). I was going to mount my driver sideways on a separate heatsink but was wondering if there's a way to modify the driver to monitor heat on the main LEDs/heatsink and not on-board the driver?
georges80
Flashlight Enthusiast
No, the h6flex temp sensing is done INSIDE the microcontroller versus an external thermistor etc.
cheers,
george.
cheers,
george.
cdrake261
Enlightened
I finally got my flashlight together and working... However, when light is on low, the light blinks every so often and when on high, it cuts off at random times.
Each of my cells are in the 4.02-4.03v range with four in series powering the h6flex and three xml's.
Any ideas what could be going on here? Thanks George!
Caleb
Each of my cells are in the 4.02-4.03v range with four in series powering the h6flex and three xml's.
Any ideas what could be going on here? Thanks George!
Caleb
I've seen people wire both the SWA and SWB (each side of the momentary switch, totally isolated from the battery of course).
And I've seen people just wire one side of the momentary to SWA and run the other side to the Battery (-) down by the mag switch and have nothing connected to SWB.
Which is the right way? Wire both SWA and SWB or just need one side of the momentary and the other side can be wired to the battery negative?
And I've seen people just wire one side of the momentary to SWA and run the other side to the Battery (-) down by the mag switch and have nothing connected to SWB.
Which is the right way? Wire both SWA and SWB or just need one side of the momentary and the other side can be wired to the battery negative?
georges80
Flashlight Enthusiast
SWB is electrically the same as the IN- on the driver, so wiring to the battery negative is electrically ok.
THE issue, is that with longer leads they can act as an antenna and spikes in the battery- wiring (due to transient load changes in the driver) can cause a misread at the SWA connection point. I provide SWB as a dedicated an electrically quiet point to wire a dedicated ground path to a remote switch.
So, in summary, using SWB is up to the end user and may be necessary for reliable operation depending on lead lengths from battery to driver, for momentary switch to driver. Since how folk wire things is out of my control, I've provided options for the end user.
My blanket recommendation is to wire the momentary switch to SWA and SWB - not everyone finds that to be necessary. Some folk using long lead lengths to the switch and running the switch leads close to power or LED output leads fine it necessary to add a capacitor (0.01uF would be sufficient) in parallel with the SWA/SWB connection points to perform as a filter for spikes that could cause the firmware to think the button has been clicked.
This is also applicable to all by flex drivers.
cheers,
george.
THE issue, is that with longer leads they can act as an antenna and spikes in the battery- wiring (due to transient load changes in the driver) can cause a misread at the SWA connection point. I provide SWB as a dedicated an electrically quiet point to wire a dedicated ground path to a remote switch.
So, in summary, using SWB is up to the end user and may be necessary for reliable operation depending on lead lengths from battery to driver, for momentary switch to driver. Since how folk wire things is out of my control, I've provided options for the end user.
My blanket recommendation is to wire the momentary switch to SWA and SWB - not everyone finds that to be necessary. Some folk using long lead lengths to the switch and running the switch leads close to power or LED output leads fine it necessary to add a capacitor (0.01uF would be sufficient) in parallel with the SWA/SWB connection points to perform as a filter for spikes that could cause the firmware to think the button has been clicked.
This is also applicable to all by flex drivers.
cheers,
george.
