HDS Systems #23

[Hogokansatsukan]

Elf magic… or the capacitor. I personally go with elf magic as I don't believe in capacitors.

 

[mckeand13]

Hogo,

What is the longest 16340 that should be used in a rotary with CR123 tube? They seem to vary in length and I wouldn't want to have the springs continually bottomed out or squish the cell.

Thanks.

 

[LRJ88]

Hogo,

What is the longest 16340 that should be used in a rotary with CR123 tube? They seem to vary in length and I wouldn't want to have the springs continually bottomed out or squish the cell.

Thanks.

HDS Systems #23

Just because i’m lazy (and because there’s just way too many to navigate properly), does anyone know the locator beacon runtimes on the newer (2018 -) models? I’ve found the older ones quoting numbers of 3+ years but as i’ve understood it at least one person was doing it on the newer models but...

www.candlepowerforums.com

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

16 (340). Don't use the "protected cells". You don't need to use them and it adds to the length and the manufacturers don't seem to be able to publish actual facts... much like our mainstream media here in the U.S.

 

[gottawearshades]

What is the voltage cut off on the battery protection?

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

2.8 volts.

 

[gottawearshades]

2.8 volts.

Thanks.

 

[tech25]

Now that it's coat weather, I switched from carrying

the 18500 in a Thors Hammer holster to an angled kydex holster- easier to grab under layers.
Love the length of the 18500 and the added runtime means I don't carry a spare cell unless I have my bag with me.
Still using the NLT- amazingly useful beam.

Of course I will have other lights on or around me, especially at night but the HDS is the one that doesn't get swapped out.

 

[jon_slider]

What is the voltage cut off on the battery protection?

Be aware of a couple Potential Pitfalls of the HDS LiIon LVP system

1. The HDS can override LVP

per the manual:
Caution: your flashlight will eventually turn itself off to preserve what little battery power remains if you continue to use your flashlight after your flashlight begins blinking once a second on the lowest brightness level. You may turn on your flashlight again when needed for a short period. This behavior maintains your options in an emergency.

2. If you remove a LiIon to do a Voltage check (not recommended), and the Voltage is below 3.2V, when you reinstall the depleted LiIon (not recommended), the HDS might think it is a CR123, and will disable LVP.. allowing you to overdischarge the LiIon

per the manual:
Notice: only install fully charged rechargeable batteries. Using a partially charged battery may result in the battery not being properly recognized as a rechargeable lithium-ion battery. This can lead to the rechargeable battery being damaged due to over-discharge

I highly recommend you Read the Manual for more complete info. Section 3 goes into detail regarding the battery management system.

 

[ilikeguns40]

2. If you remove a LiIon to do a Voltage check (not recommended), and the Voltage is below 3.2V, when you reinstall the depleted LiIon (not recommended), the HDS might think it is a CR123, and will disable LVP.. allowing you to overdischarge the LiIon

Never even thought of that. Thanks for this information

 

[gottawearshades]

Be aware of a couple Potential Pitfalls of the HDS LiIon LVP system

1. The HDS can override LVP

per the manual:
Caution: your flashlight will eventually turn itself off to preserve what little battery power remains if you continue to use your flashlight after your flashlight begins blinking once a second on the lowest brightness level. You may turn on your flashlight again when needed for a short period. This behavior maintains your options in an emergency.

2. If you remove a LiIon to do a Voltage check (not recommended), and the Voltage is below 3.2V, when you reinstall the depleted LiIon (not recommended), the HDS might think it is a CR123, and will disable LVP.. allowing you to overdischarge the LiIon

per the manual:
Notice: only install fully charged rechargeable batteries. Using a partially charged battery may result in the battery not being properly recognized as a rechargeable lithium-ion battery. This can lead to the rechargeable battery being damaged due to over-discharge

I highly recommend you Read the Manual for more complete info. Section 3 goes into detail regarding the battery management system.

Thanks for the info. My understanding is that if you're running a single battery, the only that would happen is I won't be able to recharge the battery, which is expensive. Do I have that right?

I kind of like the ability to get around low voltage protection. I have some other lights that either don't have LVP or allow me to turn it off. My own use case: I tend to top off my batteries and almost never let a rechargeable get close 3 volts. But I like the the idea of being able to kill a battery in exchange for more light, if I should I dunno get lost or get myself in some other jam.

 

[jon_slider]

Never even thought of that.

not really a problem.. it is not necessary to open an HDS to measure battery voltage, we can just rely on the double blinks described in the manual:

"Your flashlight will double-blink once every two minutes to remind you that the battery needs to be changed when the battery is no longer capable of maintaining a 50 lumen output level."

I kind of like the ability to get around low voltage protection.

for that scenario
what follows is unverified speculation:
(Trust but Verify)

I think the double blinking and 50 lumen limit, starts when the LiIon battery drops below 3.3V..(entering CR123 Voltage range)...

this means that if we intentionally Want to sacrifice the LiIon battery in an emergency, we can disable the LiIon LVP, and the 50 lumen limit, when the double blinks start.

By doing a battery detect reset: (unscrew the body while the light is on, then screw it back together with the depleted LiIon still inside)

per the manual:
"The simplest way to perform a reset is to turn on your flashlight (with the button released) and open the battery compartment until your flashlight turns off and then replace the battery compartment. "

The light would then think the depleted LiIon is a fresh CR123.

That means the output limit would go back up to maximum, and the double blinks, and 50 lumen limit, and the LiIon LVP would all be disabled.

end unverified speculation ;-)

 

[gottawearshades]

not really a problem.. it is not necessary to open an HDS to measure battery voltage, we can just rely on the double blinks described in the manual:

"Your flashlight will double-blink once every two minutes to remind you that the battery needs to be changed when the battery is no longer capable of maintaining a 50 lumen output level."



for that scenario
what follows is unverified speculation:
(Trust but Verify)

I think the double blinking and 50 lumen limit, starts when the LiIon battery drops below 3.3V..(entering CR123 Voltage range)...

this means that if we intentionally Want to sacrifice the LiIon battery in an emergency, we can disable the LiIon LVP, and the 50 lumen limit, when the double blinks start.

By doing a battery detect reset: (unscrew the body while the light is on, then screw it back together with the depleted LiIon still inside)

per the manual:
"The simplest way to perform a reset is to turn on your flashlight (with the button released) and open the battery compartment until your flashlight turns off and then replace the battery compartment. "

The light would then think the depleted LiIon is a fresh CR123.

That means the output limit would go back up to maximum, and the double blinks, and 50 lumen limit, and the LiIon LVP would all be disabled.

end unverified speculation ;-)

This was exactly my speculation.

I don't expect to ever do this, but I'm glad it's there.

 

[WarriorOfLight]

Since it is almost christmas, my HDS christmas wish for this year:

All HDS owners (and all CPF users) happy and peaceful christmas and a happy new year!

(the image is supported by a red, green, amber and blue HDS with diffuser on the tree in the background. Pure AL, Brass, Bronze, BeCu, SS and Titanium Rotary and a Titanium Clicky are in front of the picture)

 

[Dicaeopolis]

I have a rotary tactical. When it is turned all the way on high to tactical mode it will blink with a cr123 in it. I am not ready to change that battery yet, it is still pretty bright. Is there a way to stop that from happening though? I think it is lowering the lumens to preserve the battery, but I would rather it just run down and then I can change it.

 

[jon_slider]

Is there a way to stop that from happening

maybe,
if you turn the output down...

the manual says:

"Your flashlight will double-blink once every two minutes to remind you that the battery needs to be changed when the battery is no longer capable of maintaining a 50 lumen output level and you are asking for an output level higher than the battery can maintain."

> I think it is lowering the lumens to preserve the battery

agree

 

[Dicaeopolis]

maybe,
if you turn the output down...

the manual says:

"Your flashlight will double-blink once every two minutes to remind you that the battery needs to be changed when the battery is no longer capable of maintaining a 50 lumen output level and you are asking for an output level higher than the battery can maintain."

> I think it is lowering the lumens to preserve the battery

agree

Thanks. I think it is trying to preserve the battery, but being a "tactical" light I would prefer it to not step down every time I turn it on in high. It is momentary mode high on that light when turned all the way. I guess I will just have to keep a fresh battery in it at all times and stick partially used ones in something else.

 

[jon_slider]

I guess I will just have to keep a fresh battery in it at all times and stick partially used ones in something else.

sounds like you are using depleted CR123...

the light cant get maximum output out of a depleted battery.

so even though you have the dial set to maximum, youre only getting about 20% of the potential output.. and the light is telling you it needs a fresh battery..

is there some reason you choose not to use rechargeable batteries?

per the manual:
"Lithium-ion rechargeable batteries are fully supported and recommended for lower operating cost. "

"No special actions are needed to use rechargeable Lithium-ion
batteries. Your flashlight detects them automatically."

"In general, primary (non-rechargeable) batteries provide longer
runtimes." [but only at a small fraction of maximum output]

"However, rechargeable batteries provide a lower cost of
operation and allow you to always leave home with a full battery." [so you can have maximum output]

fwiw, HDS considers 50 Lumens the minimum output to qualify as a "Tactical" output. So essentially it is blinking to tell you that your battery will soon no longer be able to produce a "Tactical" brightness.

A fully charged battery can give you 200-250 Lumens.. (depending on what LED your light has).

 

[Dicaeopolis]

It seems like a lot more than 50 lumens. I forget what LED it has, but it is one of the upgraded ones, probably 300 lumens or more full output. I really like the light. It has a big hotspot, good throw, and tint. I should start enjoying it more. I seem to use my clicky more, and have put rechargeables in there. I will probably switch to rechargeables. Is there a consensus on which brand works best yet? I know I was reading a thread recently with some opinions. I'm thinking that Vapcell INR 850mAh is recommended.

 

[jon_slider]

Vapcell INR 850mAh

yes, they work very well for me
Merry Xmas ;-)