JetBeam Jet-III M (Military) Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED PICS and more!

KiwiMark

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Oct 19, 2008
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Waikato, New Zealand
It looks to me like it should be able to clear the olight plastic cap opening with the cap's lanyard attachment removed, but you would have to test this.

I might order a couple more of these battery holders and try modifying them.

I might as well throw in a quick review now that I have my light and have had a wee play:

The Tint:
It is interesting how you can shine two lights on the ceiling and see that one looks sorta blue and the other sorta yellow, then you take the one that looked sorta yellow and your new Jet-IIIM and shine them on the ceiling and you think that the one that looked sorta yellow now looks sorta blue - it's all relative!
thinking.gif


The Interface:
Only 2 settings - tighten head for full, loosen for custom. Press switch for light on, click switch for light to stay on - click again to turn off. How much simpler could you want?
And yet if I compare it to my Fenix which has: tighten for full-strobe or loosen for lo-med-hi-SOS (6 modes), the Jet-IIIM has 2 modes vs 6 for my Fenix - but the Jet-III is more versatile thanks to the IBS on the custom mode.
I tested the minimum output when I got up for a drink of water at 3am - low enough so that it didn't hurt my dark adjusted eyes, bright enough so that I could see just fine.
I really like the simple but versatile UI - full power + custom setting can give you whatever you need in normal real world use.
You could set the custom output to:
Minimum - great for camping to use with night adapted vision.
Low - great for enough light, but a really good run time.
Medium - strong light, but more run time and less heat than full.
Strobe (fast) - for security work where you want full or strobe as needed.
Strobe (slower) - for use as a bike light?
SOS - change to this in an emergency to attract attention?
Whatever you need it to be the custom setting CAN be!
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The build:
No comments on this really - I would notice anything I don't like, but there is nothing to notice here - everything is as it should be on a quality light so I am very happy with no negatives to notice!
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The ability to tailstand is no biggie, but it is nice that this light can do it.

The batteries:
I have 18650 cells for normal use - lotsa power, lotsa runtime.
I have 16340 cells for max output.
I have CR123A cells for a backup power source.
Being able to use any of these is pretty nice!
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My advice:
If you don't have this light then you should order one - this is a truly useful, functional light that will work simply and reliably in just about any situation you are likely to need a light in.
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Mii

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Jul 24, 2008
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Finland
I was wondering about output and brightnes sense it has Q3 (neutral white) instead of Q5, so i send an email to Jetbeam:

i heard about warm tint JET-III M. If its got a Q3 5A led doesn't that meen it got lesser lumens output than Q5 version?
My calculations might be wrong sense im no expert, but im calculating Q3 to have max lumens of 188-200 at current of 700mA?
does that change lights brightness/output? or is it driven more then 700mA?

Thank you for your email here.

Here,I would like to give you the message from our engineers for your question.Hope it helps! : )

"We are also wondering about the problem you mettioned . Q3 version, in theory, got lesser lumens output than Q5 version .However,our test result about warm tint JET-III M showed that the Q3 and Q5 version got the same brightness ,same output ,and also the same runtime. It should be due to the lower VF value of the LED that makes the brightness higher. "

Anyfurther issues ,please feel free to let us know! thanks! :)

Best regards,
Ame
JETBeam Group
R.Z.

that was good to hear:twothumbs.
It would be nice to see some beamshot for comparison or opinions about the output/brightnes compared.

Ps. i really dont understand much about flaslight electronics so could someone explain what Jetbeam means about lower vF value, and how does it keep the same output levels with different led?
 

ingokl

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Jul 30, 2007
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Cologne/Bonn, Germany
Vf is the forward voltage of the LED, that is the voltage needed for a certain current through the LED. So the lower Vf of the Q3 means, for example, that ist needs let's say 3.5V for a current of 700mA whereas the Q5 needs e.g. 3.7V for that. Don't take these numbers for granted, it's just meant as an example.
Now...as far as I know Jetbeam lights are voltage regulated, so the power circuit is build to deliver a constant voltage to the LED, in this case (again...just for example ;)) 3.7V. That would mean 700mA current through the Q5 LED. Opposed to that the use of the Q3 which only needs 3.5V for 700mA would result in a higher current and that way to an higher output compensating the smaller output of the Q3 at a given current.
So in fact, if Iam not wrong, the Q3 is driven slightly harder than the Q5. And considering the runtimes und output numbers of selfbuilt I am quite sure both LED are driven much higher than 700mA, I guess it is more like 1A or even slightly more.
 
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KiwiMark

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Location
Waikato, New Zealand
Has no one got ANYTHING bad to say about this light!?

It is a little bulky in a pocket for an EDC - I'll stick with my Jet-I Pro for the better EDC size.

And

Um

Err

No, that's about all I can think of.



It would be easier if you asked about bad points of a cheap 'no brand' sort of light with a clumsy UI and poor finish. Dearer lights generally and Jetbeam specifically are hard to find faults with. A well made, high quality light will always get good reviews and much praise.
 

EngrPaul

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Sep 28, 2006
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PA
I have a few lights that change brightness by bumping the tailcap switch.

Unfortunately, this makes them poor tactical signalers.

The user interface of the JB is very useful, you can always signal full power. :twothumbs
 

StandardBattery

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Sep 2, 2007
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MA
It seems like lately I get excited about a JetBeam and then see the RunTime or something and have to pass.

NOT THIS TIME!
 

selfbuilt

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May 27, 2006
Messages
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Location
Canada
It doesn't have voice recognition, or a digital battery remaining capacity readout. :(
That's a good one :crackup:

"JetBeam, set power to max - full light speed ahead."
"Ya batteries cannot handle da strain, c'tain! She's breakin' up ..."

Ps. i really dont understand much about flaslight electronics so could someone explain what Jetbeam means about lower vF value, and how does it keep the same output levels with different led?
I suspect what JetBeam meant to say is that the Q3 (neutral white) specimen they tested had a lower Vf than the Q5 (cool white). That doesn't mean you should assume all Q3s will have lower Vf.

My understanding is that the output bin is lower on the neutral (i.e. "warm") tints because of the extra phosphor needed to lower the colour temperature. This effectively lowers their output compared to the standard cool white tints. I doubt there is a general Vf trend (unless there are guaranteed low Vf bin batches that people are using).

To help put that into context, Vf varies a lot (most manufacturers do not select guaranteed Vf bins - as much as I would like them to). For a comparison, see my Jet-II PRO review - there you'll see two lights with the same circuit and Q5 emitter, but rather different output/runtimes, likely due to Vf differences.
 
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Mii

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Jul 24, 2008
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Finland
I suspect what JetBeam meant to say is that the Q3 (neutral white) specimen they tested had a lower Vf than the Q5 (cool white). That doesn't mean you should assume all Q3s will have lower Vf.

My understanding is that the output bin is lower on the neutral (i.e. "warm") tints because of the extra phosphor needed to lower the colour temperature. This effectively lowers their output compared to the standard cool white tints. I doubt there is a general Vf trend.

To help put that into context, Vf varies a lot (most manufacturers do not select guaranteed Vf bins - as much as I would like them to). For a comparison, see my Jet-II PRO review - there you'll see two lights with the same circuit and Q5 emitter, but rather different output/runtimes, likely due to Vf differences.

does that mean that Q3 version is more likely to have lesser throw and overall output? if i wanted to have maximum throw should i go with the standard version?:thinking:
 

selfbuilt

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does that mean that Q3 version is more likely to have lesser throw and overall output? if i wanted to have maximum throw should i go with the standard version?:thinking:
Q3 output bins are rated at 94-100 lumens at 350mA. Q5 output bins are rated at 107-114 lumens at 350mA.

So that's a 14% improvement of Q5 output over Q3, on average. But a "bad" Q5 is only 7% better than a "good" Q3 (or, a "good" Q5 could be 21% better than a "bad" Q3).

But note that the exact relationship between bins may not hold up at higher drive currents. Also, Vf differences can slightly affect output (and certainly greatly affect runtime, especially at lower outputs).

At the end of the day, I think it's far more important to pick the tint you want. For your ref, here's a comparison pic of a typical cool tint Fenix L2D to the 5A tint of the TK20:

TK20.gif


And here's a control shot in daylight (all pics taken with camera white balance set to daylight):

D10Daylight.jpg
 
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naked2

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Jul 13, 2007
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Upland, CA
Great picture comparison! :thumbsup: To me, the Q5 WC looks MUCH closer to sunlight (as far as color rendition) than the Q3 5A.
 

selfbuilt

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Great picture comparison! :thumbsup: To me, the Q5 WC looks MUCH closer to sunlight (as far as color rendition) than the Q3 5A.
I agree, although the 5A does help differentiate the darker colored bush on the left from the lighter green ones - and the reds look a lot nicer.

But personally, I still prefer slightly warm-tint versions of cool-white emitter (i.e. WD) even those that tend to a bit of green (i.e. WG, WH). Can't quite get use to overall orange-yellow tint of the 5A.

To each his/her own ... :whistle:
 

naked2

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Me too, reminds me too much of incandescent; once you go white, you never go back! :naughty: Oh wait, that doesn't rhyme! :duh2:
 

EngrPaul

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Sep 28, 2006
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Lens upgrade option

Original measurements: 28.07mm x 2.44mm
Replacement/Upgrade: 28.6mm x 2.84mm

From flashlightlens.com $6.25 + $1.55 first class shipping.

Makes the reflector glow blue&violet from the violet A/R coating. My light is the "warm" option, the beam is peachy white. Violet an peach are fantastic together.

Lens is a little thicker than the stock glass, but the bezel still fits fine. The bezel gap is slightly bigger, I added an unused black o-ring to fill the gap and provide an additional guard against dirt and moisture. There's a gap with my light regardless.

The diameter of the lens fills up the opening better with some gap still left over around the edges.

Here's some pictures, they barely begin to show how awesome the front end looks with the upgraded lens.

IMG_2365.jpg


IMG_2366.jpg


IMG_2374.jpg


IMG_2367.jpg


IMG_2372.jpg
 
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rantanplan

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Jun 14, 2004
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Hannover, Germany
<--- happy owner of a Jet-III M too (since today ;)) Nice light :D ... and Thanks for the excellent review too

Me too, reminds me too much of incandescent; once you go white, you never go back! :naughty: Oh wait, that doesn't rhyme! :duh2:

I modded one of my Fenix LxD-heads with a Q2 5C (range 4000-3800K) (5A wasn´t available that time) to avoid buying a TK20 and .... yes, it´s like a underpowered incan: very yellow-orange. Hadn´t had the time to do a full scale evalution in an outdoor condition so far, but I guess I´ll stick with regular "warm looking" cool-whites. Maybe I´ll try with something around 4500K in the future again.

I hope for a LED that combines "cool-neutral" white with a good CRI ... :wave:
 

qwopzxnm

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May 30, 2008
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Has no one got ANYTHING bad to say about this light!?

The weak pocket clip!!! But my opinion is really biased. Actually there's probably nothing wrong with it but I need to vent.

My wife bought me this light with an AW 18650 and the Pila charger from BugOutGear (GREAT customer service BTW). I was SO excited to get the light and when it arrived I spent the evening trying out all the different settings. By then it was dark outside and time to take the dog for a walk. I can't wait because now I get to try out my first real flashlight. Clip it to my waistband walk out the door and I bend down to tie my shoe, stand up and I hear it hit the concrete!!!!!! :hairpull::hairpull::hairpull::hairpull::hairpull:

Not even in my hands for 6 hours and now it has a nick in the tailcap that I can feel whenever I carry it and a tiny scratch in the finish towards the head. I know it's a very well built light and the performance wasn't affected at all but it still kills me.

/end vent
 
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jzelek

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Mar 1, 2008
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I feel your pain!

I discovered early on after dropping 2 flashlights on the sidewalk that I needed to start using a landyard when walking my dog. It allows me to hook up his leash, open/close doors and take gloves/hats on/off without worrying about my $100.00+ lights getting damaged. All my lights now have them installed.

I also have the JETbeam military (great light) and that comes with a good landyard too, try it out.
 
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