NiteCore Defender Infinity - First Impressions thread

[Khaytsus]

A very noobish question, but I was thinking about taking apart the tailcap to put in GID-button. But have no clue how to proceed. Any help would be appreciated.

Well, you open the tailcap and put in the new 'button'. Not sure what your question is?

Green GITD from DX fit fine. You just unscrew the brassy ring inside the tailcap and the rest is obvious. I use a C-ring tool to unscrew mine, but I've heard of various tools, including hacking on a fork taking out a few of the teeth.

 

[coldlocus]

Well, you open the tailcap and put in the new 'button'. Not sure what your question is?

Green GITD from DX fit fine. You just unscrew the brassy ring inside the tailcap and the rest is obvious. I use a C-ring tool to unscrew mine, but I've heard of various tools, including hacking on a fork taking out a few of the teeth.

Yes, I'm simply wondering how you open the tailcap. I noticed two small holes, but don't have any suitable tools. I tried two small screwdrivers, but the brassy ring doesnt seem to budge(a bit difficult though since it's two separate instruments, gonna try to use a fork as you mentioned) and I dont want to use too much force. But which direction am I supposed to unscrew the brassy ring? I assumed it was counter clockwise, but maybe I'm supposed to unscrew so it drops out of the bottom?

 

[srvctec]

Yes, I'm simply wondering how you open the tailcap. I noticed two small holes, but don't have any suitable tools. I tried two small screwdrivers, but the brassy ring doesnt seem to budge(a bit difficult though since it's two separate instruments, gonna try to use a fork as you mentioned) and I dont want to use too much force. But which direction am I supposed to unscrew the brassy ring? I assumed it was counter clockwise, but maybe I'm supposed to unscrew so it drops out of the bottom?

Counter clockwise is correct.

 

[Fallingwater]

hacking on a fork taking out a few of the teeth.

I can't believe I didn't think of this while trying to figure out how to crack open my old Fenix L1S. Thanks for the suggestion

 

[Tubor]

Slightly off topic but as it's a discussion:

Turn the light on in high mode and wait for high if you have to. Turn it off. Now you can momentary in high, turn the light off, twist the head and then momentary in User Defined Mode (UDM).

You can now: Momentary UDM -> turn the head & momentary High -> turn the head & momentary UDM etc, etc.

BUT, if you leave it on for longer than 0.5 seconds in UDM and then try to momentary in high, it won't work. You have to wait 0.5 seconds in high mode for high to be activated, and then you can momentary High and UDM as above. I know this has got something to do with the switching mechanism, but why does it work one way and not the other (ie: you can leave it on for 0.5 seconds in high, turn the light off, turn the head and immediately momentary on in UDM, no 0.5 wait)?

Slightly annoying as I've got to "prep" the torch first if I want to guarantee momentary on in high. Either that or set UDM to High so that the 0.5 second wait isn't noticeable. Does anyone know what I'm talking about?


Also if people are having contact issues (anything from low-voltage warnings to sudden brightness ramping or sudden strobe), try unscrewing the head and wiping the contact area with a tissue - I always end up with a grey/black oil on it for some reason (don't know where it's all coming from). Maybe a thorough thread/contact clean with ethanol/soap might be in order. :thumbsup:

 

[V8TOYTRUCK]

Mines starting to act up on a consistent basis...

Hit tailswitch No light
Tighten head: Full Bright
Loosen head: No light with multiple clicks
Loose head then tighten head: No Light
Fully tightened head + hit tailswitch: 50% power strobe?


WTH!

I'll try cleaning the contacts tomorrow. I've never done that on any flashlight! I just wanted to program my low and have a high/super low AA light. This light is hands down the most troublesome I've ever had out of my many. Nitecore needs to go back to the drawing board with this one. I don't plan on doing weekly thread and contact cleanings.

But its so bright and good looking! Definitely wouldn't count on it if I only had 1 light.

 

[Fallingwater]

There is more twisting in the NDI than in most other lights. My experience with twist-lights that use head twisting to change mode is that all the scraping sooner or later gives faulty contact and the light needs to be cleaned and deoxidised.
My Fenix L1S started flickering and not getting modes right after a bit less than a year of use, and required thorough cleansing before working fine again.
I think it's a small price to pay for having modes without having to bother with a standard multimode driver.

 

[mapper66]

My first impression? Works great...... without the O-Ring. O-Ring in, all kinds of issues, O-Ring out, works like a charm. Switching between user defined mode and strobe no problem.

Had tried cleaning the threads till they shined, tried lube and no lube, with no luck. Finally found this thread and thought I would try without an o-ring before sanding or trying to find another size. Worked great, so I did the sanding trick and all works well.

Anyone know what size O-ring would work in these, cause the rings that came with mine sure don't.

Other impressions? I love this light. Love the size, the brightness, AA-compatibility, and the ability to define my own secondary level. Well-machined, and the switch is pretty good. We'll see how it fares in the durability department.

 

[Fallingwater]

Just tried it without the o-ring, and it's indeed much easier to operate. However, it also seems like it could easily change mode when bumped. I think I prefer a stiffer head.
I might try another o-ring if I get my hands on one.

 

[mapper66]

Just tried it without the o-ring, and it's indeed much easier to operate. However, it also seems like it could easily change mode when bumped. I think I prefer a stiffer head.
I might try another o-ring if I get my hands on one.

FW, check out post #202 in this thread. That is what I did and it works great. You can tailor the fit of the O-ring how you like it.

 

[Fallingwater]

Thanks, but it seems I've nicked the o-ring while I was taking it out. It now has a small cut. I'm afraid further handling would cause it to break, so I'll leave it as it is right now.

Which ones of these would fit the NDI?

 

[rolling]

Hmm, anybody thought about that it might be not intendet for onehand use?

 

[Kilovolt]

Thanks, but it seems I've nicked the o-ring while I was taking it out. It now has a small cut. I'm afraid further handling would cause it to break, so I'll leave it as it is right now.

Which ones of these would fit the NDI?

It appears that the size is less important than the compound they are made of. It's better to use an o-ring made of black rubber. In any case these are the measurements:


http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2326550#post2326550


:wave:

 

[Fallingwater]

Hmm, anybody thought about that it might be not intendet for onehand use?

I never meant to use it one-handed. It's clearly meant to be twisted using two hands.

I'll get the appropriate o-ring, thanks Kilovolt

 

[Khaytsus]

I never meant to use it one-handed. It's clearly meant to be twisted using two hands.

I'll get the appropriate o-ring, thanks Kilovolt

Even with two hands, my original configuration was very hard to turn, not just stiff, it felt like the oring was binding. A binding oring is useless. If it binds with water on it, the water could easily go beyond it where it's warped.

The Fenix oring fits well. I'm pondering buying a oring set from Harbor Freight but don't really need the other 250 orings in there.. But otherwise, I've never been able to find the same size as the Fenix. 47's was nice enough to send me a replacement oring for my Fenix when I put the wrong lube on it a while back, but it'd be nice to know where to get them otherwise.

 

[Vikas Sontakke]

Guess who are no longer snickering at "Strong Light" ?

- Vikas

 

[Khaytsus]

Guess who are no longer snickering at "Strong Light" ?

- Vikas

Not quite as strong as my P2D CE P4, sadly, but it's bright enough and the flexability and build are great. I *was* hoping for more output but it has enough.

 

[waTom]

Hi everyone,

I just recieved my Defender and was surprised and happy that there is no "Strong Light" sign or brand symbol on my unit

I hope it will last long as I will give away all my other AA lights ... they just can not compete with the Nitecore.

 

[Khaytsus]

Hi everyone,

I just recieved my Defender and was surprised and happy that there is no "Strong Light" sign or brand symbol on my unit

I hope it will last long as I will give away all my other AA lights ... they just can not compete with the Nitecore.

No logos anywhere? No text, or what? Did you get it from Tad? I wonder if this is a second batch, or one of the very first ones that didn't have the logos.

Interesting!

 

[srvctec]

No logos anywhere? No text, or what? Did you get it from Tad? I wonder if this is a second batch, or one of the very first ones that didn't have the logos.

Interesting!

Probably the second batch. The second batch units only have the NiteCore and Defender Infinity logos on the flats if I remember that correctly (saw it in a post somewhere either on CPF or CPFMP).