Peak Eiger Rebel AAA?

[RAGE CAGE]

RC, thanks for your kind words. No, 10440s are one li-ion cell I have somehow never gotten around to acquiring. But, I may at some point, and you hit the nail on the head---I figured a #4 would be a good all round light, with the capability of going very bright w/ 10440s.

Sure thing. My #8 with the 10440 is "almost" too bright (can't believe i just typed that). I am thinking about putting my eneloops/duraloops back into rotation. My medium has no hotspot whatsoever. Just a pure cone of light. Did you order your #4 from Bob or Curt?

 

[pockets]

Rage Cage
Maybe you didn't see my earlier post. If you could help me out I'd appreciate it. I got my Peak #8 brass, narrow, cool, pocket style. I got two DLG 10440 batteries from Lighthound. When I put them in the Peak, they don't work. They have what looks like a pos. nipple but it is completetly flush with the battery. What battery are you using and do they just plug & play or did you have to do anything to them so they would work? It seems mine are too short. I've never used 10440's before so I'm lost. Thanks

 

[RAGE CAGE]

RAGE CAGE
I just got my first Peak(more on order)Eiger 10440 #8 narrow cool-brass. I think it is just beautiful. I'm addressing this to you because I've read your posts about using a 10440 battery in your #8, although if anyone would like to address this, please do. I ordered two 10440 batteries from Lighthound, when I put them in the Eiger they were too short to make contact-2.685". The nipples on these are pretty much flush with the top so, I put a small drop of solder on one. When I turned it on the light was like an atomic explosion but I noticed the light was getting very hot after only 4 or 5 seconds so I took the head off and it didn't seem very warm. I tipped the battery out onto my hand and I thought it was going to burn my hand, it was that hot. It seemed that the battery had to be shorted. Do you think that small drop of solder could have done that? The Eiger seems to be ok but the battery doesn't even register on the multimeter. I'm pretty nervous about using the 10440. Did I do a bad thing? What 10440 are you using in your Eiger? I would really like to use 10440 batteries, just can't seem to get them to work. I'd appreciate any advice! Thanks

Pockets- glad to hear you were not hurt. I am certainly no expert of Li-Ion batteries. I do have a healthy respect for the potential for catastrophic failure of this type of particualr cell chemistry. CPF is a great resource for exploring battery mishaps and such and I would encourage you to do so. I would NEVER recomend soldering or heating a Li-Ion- at the very least you would run the risk of coverring the safety release vents- also the 10440's are all "unprotected cells"- so you may defeat the only safety feature the cell has. Worst case- you could have a catastrophic failure- the cell could "vent" with fumes and or flames.
Funny timing of your note- I was in a Battery Supply store about a week ago discussing the safety of Li Ion cells with one of the techs and he told me about his manager building up (soldering) a Li-Ion battery pack for a RC Hobby customer- the whole thing went - vented and heated up so he threw it into the trash can where it proceeded to melt thru the trash can....and this is someone who has had years of experience. Since you mentioned it read 0 on your DMM- I would URGE you STONGLY to SAFELY dispose of the cell.
DO NOT TRY TO RECHARGE IT .
I ordered the 10440 ultrafire from RMSK- charger with the 2 cells. You might want to consider Alkalines or Energizer L92 disposable lithiums or rechargable Ni-MH's cells so you can EDC with less worry while you resarch. Also- the only way I personally feel safe using Li-Ion batts now is in a SINGLE (1)cell application because of the unbalanced/reverse charging issues with multiple Li-Ion cells that are well documented on CPF. Li-PO and "safer" cells are coming- until then- all we can do is be cautious and use what we are comfortable with. Be safe.

 

[pockets]

Rage Cage
I appreciate your concern. It was more like just dropping a small bubble of solder on the tip. But I guess that was enough, I won't be doing it again! What battery brand are you using and did it work without any "alterations"?

 

[RAGE CAGE]

Rage Cage
I appreciate your concern. It was more like just dropping a small bubble of solder on the tip. But I guess that was enough, I won't be doing it again! What battery brand are you using and did it work without any "alterations"?

Pockets- sounds like we are both on the same learning curve. I am using the Ultrafire (blue) LC 10440 500mAh 3.6v that RMSK sells-no alterations were needed. I NEVER charge unattended and I pull the cell off frequently to check with my DMM until it reaches approx. 4.12v. I always check the polarity 2 or 3 times before insering into the Eiger or charger. I am not aware of any magnetic spacers that thin- you may want to consider a new set of batts. Consider yourself smarter AND lucky.
Live and Learn.

 

[pockets]

Rage Cage
I've been using li-ions for years(not the 10440) and I'm always very careful charging them. I keep the multi-meter right by the charger and check them regularly, like you say. I have never put solder on one and never will again Thank You!

 

[defloyd77]

I sure Curt wrote, in a post that I can't fine, that he would still be taking care of the custom work.
Norm

Thanks buddy, I too recall reading that, but I also cannot find the post.

 

[regulator]

I have been using the #4 power level since the Eiger was first introduced. I like this power option the best since it gets great runtime with either an Eneloop or an Energizer lithium. It also get 2.5 - 3 hours on a 14400 cell with greater brightness. I think this power level offers the best runtimes/brightness with the different voltage cells.

 

[Gatsby]

I am interested in the 10180 lights but it appears there is no viable charger for these cells on the market (aw sells them but recommends a coin cell charger which apparently the only one is out of production) ... so what are folks doing to charge their cells?

 

[No really]

... so what are folks doing to charge their cells?

I am using the 3.6V NANO, with several magnetic spacers. As usual, be attentive and measure often.

 

[post tenebras]

Maybe too thick...but Lighthound has 1.6mm magnetic spacers.

http://www.lighthound.com/Magnetic-Spacer--16mm_p_1046.html

 

[shriek]

I'm in the same boat with you Gatsby, I don't like the Nano Charger Solution with the small Cells.
I'm probably getting the USB Charger Sabrewolf is selling here on CPF with the 100mA Option or build me a similar one with this one Sparkfun is selling. The MAX1555 IC seems good to me for 10180 Cells.

 

[MWClint]

I'm in the same boat with you Gatsby, I don't like the Nano Charger Solution with the small Cells.
I'm probably getting the USB Charger Sabrewolf is selling here on CPF with the 100mA Option or build me a similar one with this one Sparkfun is selling. The MAX1555 IC seems good to me for 10180 Cells.

i recently built a charger using Sabrewolf's Barebones charger circuit.
It can charge from either 4xAA, USB or 5v ac->dc.
4xAA project box from radio shack.
selectable 100<->300ma switch
Batt OFF/USB <-> On switch.

sabrewolf's circuit is so small, you cant see it in this mess. still there was
barely enough space for the switches, wiring and circuit.

usb connector to charge via laptop

Dual output 5v/500ma usb ac->dc adapter. i can charge my phone and my
light at the same time with this nifty device. :naughty:

charging li-ion via AA batt source.

this setup is so small, i just keep it in my laptop case.

 

[RAGE CAGE]

nice...did it come with the magnets soldered on or did you do that? What do you figure total cost was?

 

[MWClint]

nice...did it come with the magnets soldered on or did you do that? What do you figure total cost was?

bare circuit(no wiring) was $20 from sabrewolf, Radio Shack battery box $2.99, 6 pack neodymuim magnets $2 @ Harbor Freight B&M..wire, glue, switches, solder, usb plug, was all random stuff i had lying around.. $0

total about $25 +/-

soldering onto magnets isnt tough,you just have to rough up the surface with a file/sandpaper, dab a bit of flux on it and use a hot iron for about a second-no more...once it cooled
i coated it the solder/wire/top of magnet with silicone glue as a stress relief to prevent the wire from being pulled off the magnet. i can probably slide a
peice of shrink wrap over it to make it look nice and to create a bigger finger hold..those magnets are strong. i use a plastic spacer with cutouts between the magnets when not in use..otherwise they are hard to pull apart. i use these magnets on my Triton+balancing charger as well.

 

[Dances with Flashlight]

I was "lucky" enough to pick up about the very last coin cell charger made. Sadly, it isn't quite the solution I had hoped, being very touchy to set up properly because of the design that was intended for coin cells and not 10180's.

Well I can't claim to know anything about chargers, but looking at the features of MWClint's charger I have no doubt that his is far better than any other. Everyone ought to have one.

 

[fyrstormer]

I just use the magnetic spacers and stuff my 10180s into my Ultrafire charger. (I used to use a Nano charger, but the concept is the same.) Then I pull them out a few hours later when the charge lights have turned green.

I know that LiCO batteries can rapidly oxidize when provoked, but I think people who manually check their batteries repeatedly during a single charge cycle are being...overly cautious. The charger already has a voltage monitor built-in, and on the Ultrafire charger you can see it doing its job because the charge cycle pauses every couple of seconds so the charger can measure the battery's output voltage.

 

[Curt R]

Just found the time to do a run time test with a #8 Eiger using a 10440 Lithium-Ion battery and the 0080 Rebel LED with the medium optic. Production lights have the 0100 Rebel LED.

At the start of the test the output was 502 foot-candles at 3.95 volts.
At 10 minutes it was 384 fc at 3.72 volts.
at 20 minutes it was 360 fc at 3.57 volts.
at 30 minutes it was 310 fc at 3.19 volts.
at 32 minutes it was 275 fc at 2.75 volts.
Turned off the light and let it rest for 2 minutes to recover to 3.63 volts.
Turned on at 316 fc at 3.35 volts.
Ran for two minutes to 295 fc at 3.00 volts.

Most users rarely exceed two to five minutes at a time and not a constant half-hour run. That would allow the battery to recover voltage and the next start-up output would then be close to the 500 to 450 fc range for a majority of the battery output time factor. I would recommend that the battery be recharged after about 15 minutes usage to maintain maximum battery life.

Curt

 

[mcmc]

Hey guys - just found out about the Eiger, looks very intriguing =D

Was wondering if the Eiger head would fit on my old brass Peak AAA lug body (Arc twin)?

Also, will these fit on a Shasta body - but then, are there N-sized li-ions in existence? Guess could use N alks...

 

[arty]

I just got an Eiger #6 medium cool tint in the mail. It is a nice small light.
The Eiger head will fit the Matterhorn body, not the Baltic.