AFAustin
Flashlight Enthusiast
IIRC, at one point, Peak planned to also offer an Eiger in Shasta/Baltic size. Don't know if that came to pass.
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Peak Eiger Rebel AAA?
- Thread starter AFAustin
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Cool, thanks guys!
Actually, I decided to try giving Peak a ring, after having asked my question, and I got the answer from the Curt man himself =) He concurred with you guys, that the Eiger head will work on the old Peak AAA brass bodies, Matterhorns, and the Baltic body as well (a AAA Luxeon/P4 light).
He did mention making a Rainier-size light with a P7 B-D That would be AWESOME. I'm keepin' my eyes peeled for that one.
Btw, Robyn and Curt are swell folks and it was great talking to them on the phone!!
Actually, I decided to try giving Peak a ring, after having asked my question, and I got the answer from the Curt man himself =) He concurred with you guys, that the Eiger head will work on the old Peak AAA brass bodies, Matterhorns, and the Baltic body as well (a AAA Luxeon/P4 light).
He did mention making a Rainier-size light with a P7 B-D That would be AWESOME. I'm keepin' my eyes peeled for that one.
Btw, Robyn and Curt are swell folks and it was great talking to them on the phone!!
I have an Eiger and 2 Baltics. No way you can use the Eiger head on the Baltic unless you do some major work. The head diameters are very different - the Baltic is much larger.
The Eiger fits on Matterhorn bodies - I know, since I have a couple of Matterhorns with extra bodies.
As an aside, can the Eiger cope with "rough" use? The Matterhorns sure can. I don't abuse lights and none of mine have failed. I just wondered how sturdy the Eiger will turn out to be.
The Eiger fits on Matterhorn bodies - I know, since I have a couple of Matterhorns with extra bodies.
As an aside, can the Eiger cope with "rough" use? The Matterhorns sure can. I don't abuse lights and none of mine have failed. I just wondered how sturdy the Eiger will turn out to be.
Arty's right- the Baltic and Shatsta bodies/heads are interchangeable, Shasta using the N cell batt. and Baltic using the AAA/10440- because the baltic body flares out at the end to accept the slightly larger diameter Shasta/Baltic head. Eigers and matty's have the same size tube.
no worries.....you might get more run time from the 10180 li-ion body- and it uses the Eiger head that will also fit the matterhorn. I have 2 Baltics- a S stamped "super" power Lux III and a XLR "extra long run" stamped. I ordered a Baltic body because I always wanted to try the N cell on the XLR (shorter form factor). Couple "issues" with the Baltic body- where you unscrew the keychain post- there is now way to access/adjust the negative contact screw- or adjust the travel like there is in my Baltics and Matterhorns with the KC post. As such, the positive contact enganges the n cell with only 3-4 turns of the head-so when you twist it into the "off" position- it is very close to the edge of the threads and I have had the head fall off a couple of times in my pocket. It is now banished to a lanyard for night time bed checks and lego dodging.:candle: ever step on a lego?- man that hurts!
Hm, you're the first person I've heard of who uses the battery contact adjustability. Which I always thought was a cool feature but one I never would need.
However, I'm beginning to wonder if it is really useful with respect to using a 10440, since the lengths might be different compared to alks...i.e. if I wanted to use an Eiger head on my Peak AAA brass lug body. Hmm...
However, I'm beginning to wonder if it is really useful with respect to using a 10440, since the lengths might be different compared to alks...i.e. if I wanted to use an Eiger head on my Peak AAA brass lug body. Hmm...
I never needed it until I ordered my 2 Baltics- I was not happy with the thread travel as the head was somewhat unsecure when in the off position. I got a much better on off thread travel situation when I backed the negative contact off a bit- very small adjustments can be made- a quarter turn here or there- also- you can totally remove the contact for cleaning and if you ever buy a momentary switch, it is an easy swap out.
Dances with Flashlight
Flashlight Enthusiast
Peak's momentary switches are available, in both brass and SS. Useful? Hospitals should issue them along with birth certificates; I can't see how anyone could live without them. One word about overall length of the light, though. A shorter light (single AAA or shorter) may not permit you to wrap your fingers around the light and still operate the momentary with your thumb (unless you are a very, very young CPFer). Index finger operation of the momentary can be somewhat awkward depending upon your hold. Momentary switches really shine, however, on longer lights (AA, 2 x AAA, 18650, etc). They are bulletproof and are easily adjustible for sensitivity/length of travel, and they operate silently, easily and smoothly. IMHO they are superior to every other switch on the market that purports to offer momentary capability.
Dances is on the money as far as the momentary switches- they are SUPREME in the double cell Fujiyama or any other dual cell PEAK offerings AA or AAA or N. Take a look in the sticky at the accessories peak has- like the delrin caps and difusers- magnetic arms/clamps- some cool stuff.
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fyrstormer
Banned
I have no trouble using the momentary switch on my Baltic AAA, which is roughly the same length as the Eiger AAA if you get it with the modular lug body. Maybe you just spread your fingers out too much. 
Truth be told, though, I just mash the button with my thumb knuckle, I don't worry about trying to hit it with the tip of my thumb. It works either way.
Truth be told, though, I just mash the button with my thumb knuckle, I don't worry about trying to hit it with the tip of my thumb. It works either way.
About how long would it take for a custom colored Eiger to be made? I know they'd have to order the LED and then assemble the light, I'd like to have it by the 23rd, but I might not be able to order until this friday, so I'm just curious. Also is it any extra to have a colored LED put in?
Henk_Lu
Flashlight Enthusiast
If it hasn't been used for a few moments, it's very hard to turn the head of my Eiger. That thing is quite tiny and my grip isn't just firm enough. I got the gold plated version, probably the most "slippery" one. Not a real problem, but you have to get used to place your fingers right, if you try to turn the body together with the head, no light will come out... :sigh:
I know that o-ring problem already from my Quark AA-2, VERY hard to turn the first time, fortunately that head is larger and has better grip because of the knurling.
I know that o-ring problem already from my Quark AA-2, VERY hard to turn the first time, fortunately that head is larger and has better grip because of the knurling.
Anyone notice the following with their Eiger on 10180: off the charger, the light (mine is medium power 8) seems to be putting out the listed 100 lumens. However, as soon as I turn it on, within less than a second the output drops down to about half the brightness. This happens consistently.
AFAustin
Flashlight Enthusiast
I like a pretty fast twisty action on my Peaks, and most of the time that means sanding the o-ring a bit. Works like a charm.
AF- what grit paper do you use?
AFAustin
Flashlight Enthusiast
RC,
What I do (which I learned from Lite_me) is put the o ring around a bit on a cordless drill or my Dremel, and then rotate it as I press it lightly against a sanding sponge. Not sure what grit the sponge is, but is fairly coarse, which means that if I'm not careful I can quickly "over-sand" it! It probably would be better to use a finer grit, but I just got into the habit of doing it this way.
Hope that helps.
I have a question for you guys, what effect will an LED with a lower vf (a red one in this case) have as far as performance? I've read in the past various things on lower vf's, some said that lower vf's will draw more power and be brighter (well the red in this case won't be_ and higher vf's will draw less and are dimmer, another makes it sound like the low vf LED will just run longer at the same brightness and so on. Can/should I expect longer runtime using a low vf red LED instead of a white?
