Some Mag Questions

[R983]

Allright, everyone here is probably well aware of just how terrible the performance of a stock 3D Maglite really is. Now I'm a Streamlight and Surefire fan just as much as the rest of you on here, the scorpion being one of my favorite lights I've used on a regular basis. However I think its just not practical to use one of the 123A powered lights as a "go to" everything light. Lately I've been using a 3D Mag with a Magnum star 3-cell bulb in it. Even with this setup the light output leaves a lot to be desired. I am aware of the KPR112 and 3X123 mod, but then again its not really practical. I have known about the whole 4xC in a 3D Mag since I was a little kid, and decided to try it again. Well it flashed the Magnum star bulb, also flashed a Dorcy Xenon 3 cell bulb, yet works quite well with a stock 3-cell Mag bulb. My question is, what are the specs on the stock Mag bulbs. The Dorcy xenon was a 3.6V rated @ .82A. I'm guessing the Magnum star was similar. Do these "high performance" bulbs draw more current than the stock Mag bulbs or do they have lower voltage ratings? How long can I expect the stock 3D Mag bulb (being over-driven) by 4XC to last? And are there any other bulbs that wont flash using this setup?

Rich

 

[Nerd]

From what I heard on the forum, and in my own experience, the normal mag bulbs (krypton bulbs) can take overdrive quite well, in this case, running 4 cells on a bulb rated for 3 cells.

My reasoning is that xenon/halogen buls are already running their filaments at a higher temperature afforded by the gas in them (in this case, some xenon or other types of halogen). It is thus when we overdrive them, the filament melts itself.

Some people manage to overdrive 3 cell xenon bulbs on 4 cells though.

I've measured the normal mag buls to draw around 700-800 ma if my memory didn't fail me.

From what I remember, one of the reason is that halogen bulbs re-deposits the evapourated tungsten filament back on itself as part of a cycle. The gas is very stable and thus allows the filament to be run at a higher temp. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm sure more forumers will come in and help with your question. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Pellidon]

Put a 2 cell lamp in a three cell light and it will be bright, very bright, for about twenty seconds. The 2 cell can't handle a 50% increase in voltage well. The other combinations, 3 cell lamp in 4 cell light and so on works well. The increase in voltage is not as great and the lamps handle it better. You can sleeve your 3 cell light with PVC pipe and insert four C cell batteries and drive it with the existing 3 cell lamps. You then get a 4 cell lamp that doesn't double as an oversized akward walking stick.

Pop over to the computer store and buy some WriteRight® PDA screen protectors, the monochrome screen type and place some over the lense. Smooths up the beam tremendously.

 

[R983]

Thanks for the replies guys, I'm not too concerned with it being a regular Mag, I'd never expect a regular alkaline Mag to be "bright" I was just hoping to get a little more out of it than the bone stock pathetic performance we all love to hate. I think a high output rechargeable with both AC and DC chargers will be my next light purchase. Runtime will be just as important as light performance. So far some of the possibilities are Streamlight SL-20X, Stramlight Stinger (or poly stinger) possibly the SL-20XP/LED and maybe even something from the Pelican people, such as a M9 or M11.

I just came across this thread - http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=525231&page=3&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=365&fpart=1 and I am somewhat interested. This model seems to have only the one button as opposed to the older Brinkmanns. Also how hard would it be to get replacement bulbs and so on. I really wish the CTZero line of lights were easier to come by, they seem to have a lot going for them.

 

[Ginseng]

I've been using the SL-20XP LED for a few weeks now and it is a great light. Even after the batteries are too drained to light the bulb, it still gives you quite a bit of LED runtime. Replace the wimpy stock 1.8Ah stick with a 3.3Ah nimh stick, drill out a SL-35X LA to fit over the LEDs and you have a very potent and versatile light.

Wilkey

 

[bwaites]

I'm running a 6 cell MagStar krypton on 4 123's, super bright, I'd guess 250+ lumens. Certainly brigher than my Surefire Z3. About 40 minutes run time on the bulb so far, no flash, but I did flash one when I tried 5 123's.

Bill

 

[fivemega]

Why don't you try Carley 1122 with 3 rechargeable D?
Or 609 with 4 rechargeable C?
Or 612 with 5xSub C in 3D M*g?

 

[Aux]

[ QUOTE ]
Ginseng said:
I've been using the SL-20XP LED for a few weeks now and it is a great light. Even after the batteries are too drained to light the bulb, it still gives you quite a bit of LED runtime. Replace the wimpy stock 1.8Ah stick with a 3.3Ah nimh stick, drill out a SL-35X LA to fit over the LEDs and you have a very potent and versatile light.

[/ QUOTE ]

Where does one get a 3.3Ah battery for the SL-20XP/LED?

 

[Ginseng]

I made it myself out of GP3300 nimh cells.

Wilkey

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Wilkey, do you have a picture of that drilled out 35X LA?

Bill

 

[Ginseng]

I do not as I have not yet made one. I've been using the LA that came with the SL-20XP LED. It looks easy enough to do though.

Wilkey