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Sold/Expired SSC P7 Buck Converter

Der Wichtel

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Joined
Mar 12, 2007
Messages
829
Location
Germany
The drivers are available now.

Sry for the waiting but I had to look for a room for my beginning university time
 

MWClint

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Joined
May 27, 2008
Messages
849
Location
Albany, NY
DW,
received mine today! thanks. :naughty:

all 3 leads are blue..so i just want to double check with you before
i solder it in.

looking down at the capacitor side, i believe the wiring is as follows.
p7buck.jpg


yay/nay?



and with the d2dim module?
p7buckd2dim.jpg
 
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Changchung

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 2, 2005
Messages
2,167
Location
Where the night is too short...
Hi,
you are right.
Just connect it like this

http://daoriginal.da.funpic.de/data/Dcon/diagram.jpg

your D2Dimm wiring should also work. However this should be better:


But I'm not 100% sure.
If the D2Dimm has no resistance between positive in and positive out then this should work better than your wiring.

Hi Der Wichtel, I have some drivers yet;

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10421
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1638
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1678

Can I use any of them with your buck for 3x P7 with this wiring or I have to use your driver? I am just waiting for the funds to buy it and the Leds also...:devil:
 

Der Wichtel

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Mar 12, 2007
Messages
829
Location
Germany
Hi Der Wichtel, I have some drivers yet;

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10421
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1638
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1678

Can I use any of them with your buck for 3x P7 with this wiring or I have to use your driver? I am just waiting for the funds to buy it and the Leds also...:devil:

I don't really understand what you mean but those drivers you have are only 1 Ampere drivers.

You can't drive a P7 with them.

If you want modes then you need a dimmer not a driver.
 

Changchung

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 2, 2005
Messages
2,167
Location
Where the night is too short...
I don't really understand what you mean but those drivers you have are only 1 Ampere drivers.

You can't drive a P7 with them.

If you want modes then you need a dimmer not a driver.

You have for sale, or was for sale, the buck and a dimmer, can I use another dimmer with your buck for drive 3 P7 in serie???


CR123 and chargers in sale
 
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Essexman

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 9, 2006
Messages
1,192
Location
U.K.
First version will be the version as before with a voltage range up to 10.5V.
For all those who wants to drive one emitter the second version is better suited which has a voltage range up to 4.2V.
I have a question - would it be possible with one of your drivers to power one P7 using 6AA battries (7.2V) ? :confused:

Many thanks
 

Aircraft800

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 24, 2007
Messages
1,487
Location
DFW Texas.
Der Wichtel,

Will this buck driver work for a parallel wired Cree MC-E? I need a driver with the Maximum Drive Current of 700 mA per LED die, or 2.8 A total. I didn't see what yours is rated. Also, any chances of building some with a diameter of 26.2mm to fit in a "C" M*g?

Thanks!
 

Der Wichtel

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Mar 12, 2007
Messages
829
Location
Germany
Yes the MCE will works in parallel as well.

I can't make this driver. It is already the smallest size I could make.

I don't know it is possible but the driver can be filed down and one capacitor can be removed when using with batteries. the extra capacitor is for power suppliers. Then should fit into the batterytube of the C mag or maybe even between switch and heatsink
 

Aircraft800

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Joined
Apr 24, 2007
Messages
1,487
Location
DFW Texas.
Yes the MCE will works in parallel as well.

I can't make this driver. It is already the smallest size I could make.

I don't know it is possible but the driver can be filed down and one capacitor can be removed when using with batteries. the extra capacitor is for power suppliers. Then should fit into the batterytube of the C mag or maybe even between switch and heatsink

Can you show me a graphic of which capacitor can be removed and where it is possible to file without removing traces? If it can be filed to 26.2mm, it may work. I may be able to open up the tube a bit, but there is not much space between the switch and the LED heatsink, I'll see if I can get some measurements and more room.

Thanks!!
 

Hammer Train

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Joined
Sep 3, 2008
Messages
716
Hi Der Wichtel,

Just thought I'd also say what a fantastic product this is, and how helpful Der Wichtel has been - if you're trying to decide if the driver is worth the extra $, in my opinion IT IS!!!!!

PS - What would I need to get for me to be able to programme the Dimmer, and how difficult is it?
 
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Der Wichtel

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Mar 12, 2007
Messages
829
Location
Germany
hi,

you will need four wires for data and additionally some wires to a powersupply. one lithium ion battery is enough.

the easiest way is to use the serial or parallel port ( yes they are still very useful :thumbsup:) on the computer to flash the programm.
The easiest programcable I could find was this one
http://s-huehn.de/elektronik/avr-prog/avr-prog.htm

The transistors don't have to be very special. Every cheap transistor will do the job.

I'm using a usb programmer because I don't have a native serial port on my laptop. USB-Serial converter are very slow ( about 30min for flashing whereas native serial ports will do it in 3seconds).

For programming "bascom" is good for beginners. You can use simple basic language to program the µC with it. There is a full featured demo on their website with just a code limitation of 4kbyte which is enough for beginners.

I will clean up my code if I have time and post it here. Currently I don't have much time because I just moved to another city and it's a little bit stressy
 
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