Surefire C2 Upgrades?

[antikythera]

Well, the McClicky kit appears to be out of stock.... everywhere. What should I do now?

 

[CheepSteal]

I think a critical upgrade should be a SS bezel ring as it will protect your Z44 head from impacts and denting. My G2X has a plastic lens/ring module and has a few dents in the head from dropping it onto tiles from about 1.5 feet. I'm pretty sure the Z44 is tougher than the G2X bezel but you never know when you'll drop it hard..
As for the boring, I find if you run a ~200 lumens dropin, the 17670 should be quite sufficient for runtime. If you decide to get it bored but don't want half a light lying around, buy a Solarforce body as a temporary substitute. That way, you'll have a 18650 "6P" alternative if you ever get bored (no pun intended) of the C2 body.

I actually have a question for you other guys too:
What is the impact resistance benefit of an acrylic lens as opposed to UCL? I purchased an acrylic lens with supposedly ~95% transmission rating from flashlightlens.com for my Z2. I get kind of paranoid running a glass lens with my Malkoff because if I ever shatter it, I don't want the shards to ruin the reflector of my M61 (meaning I'd need to get a new one).
I'm trying to make my Z2 my absolute nuclear-bomb-proof light.

 

[precisionworks]

I get kind of paranoid running a glass lens with my Malkoff because if I ever shatter it, I don't want the shards to ruin the reflector of my M61

Every Malkoff I've seen, including the M61 just purchased, has its own Lexan front cover. I've heard of some people who run the Malkoff with no lens of any type in the light, and that does increase OTF lumens by 6%-7%. Mine has the standard C2 lens in front of it.

if you run a ~200 lumens dropin, the 17670 should be quite sufficient for runtime

+1

The M61 does not draw a great deal of current, only 650 mA @ 6 volts, according to the info on Gene's site. Either a 17670 or 2xCR123 primaries do a nice job. If you plan to run the light for long periods of time, or go to a more powerful drop in, the 18650 gives nearly double the runtime of the 17670.

 

[CheepSteal]

Every Malkoff I've seen, including the M61 just purchased, has its own Lexan front cover. I've heard of some people who run the Malkoff with no lens of any type in the light, and that does increase OTF lumens by 6%-7%. Mine has the standard C2 lens in front of it.

Woahhhhh, whatttt, where the heck's my M61's lexan cover?!
Just to make sure I wasn't seeing things, I just stuck my pinky ever so slightly into the reflector area of my M61W and ..nothin'!

 

[antikythera]

I think a critical upgrade should be a SS bezel ring as it will protect your Z44 head from impacts and denting. My G2X has a plastic lens/ring module and has a few dents in the head from dropping it onto tiles from about 1.5 feet. I'm pretty sure the Z44 is tougher than the G2X bezel but you never know when you'll drop it hard..
As for the boring, I find if you run a ~200 lumens dropin, the 17670 should be quite sufficient for runtime. If you decide to get it bored but don't want half a light lying around, buy a Solarforce body as a temporary substitute. That way, you'll have a 18650 "6P" alternative if you ever get bored (no pun intended) of the C2 body.

How would I install the bezel ring (other than by using that Oveready wrench attachment)?

Funny you should mention Solarforce. I was about to buy an L2P setup before I saw the C2 sale on LAPG (still in stock, btw)!

What do you all think the runtime would be off of an XM-L based P60? Should I go for the lower powered (~15/160/330 Lm) R5 Nailbender or an M61 instead?

 

[CheepSteal]

How would I install the bezel ring (other than by using that Oveready wrench attachment)?

Funny you should mention Solarforce. I was about to buy an L2P setup before I saw the C2 sale on LAPG (still in stock, btw)!

What do you all think the runtime would be off of an XM-L based P60? Should I go for the lower powered (~15/160/330 Lm) R5 Nailbender or an M61 instead?

Well, if it's a flat bezel, it's a bit difficult to get really tight without a tool (dedicated bezel tool or a metal plate of correct length). With the crenelated ones, you could hand tighten it and use a sandal or shoe to help tighten it pretty good. It's a bit tricky to get bezels to sit 100% and have everything real secure, you might have to tinker with lens sizes, o ring sizes, gaskets. For example, if I want my Z2 to have a lens sandwiched between two thick O rings (for shock isolation) and a Xeno bezel, I'll have to buy a thinner lens because there isn't enough space to fit everything and have the bezel tightened fully.
With my current set up, I'm running the original Surefire rubber gasket, 28.6mm x 2.83mm lens, very thin plastic gasket, Xeno SS crenelated bezel. It's able to tighten down fully and is very secure. However, I bought a much thinner lens (1.83mm or so) just so I can use an O ring instead of a thin plastic gasket.
Not too sure if anyone else has troubles with bezel ring fitment, I'm just very very fussy with gaps and fitment.
Regarding your drop in question, I can't personally comment on XML runtime. My personal opinion is that the XP-E and XP-G are the best LED's for balance of throw and spill. The M61 has a beautifully smooth beam but won't throw that far. My SF G2X uses a XP-E and has a great beam; large spill and throwy/punchy hotspot.

 

[antikythera]

Okay. I may or may not add the bezel. It actually depends on what gadgetry I purchase (budget and all that).

Thanks for the fitment info; I never thought of that!

The G2X uses an XP-E? Which one? I really like that beam pattern!

I think what I would really like is an XM-L P60, but with "underclocked" modes so to speak. Something like 5/30/100/300/600 Lm (bulb), with memory. That way, the lower levels would have crazy runtimes, but there are still high modes for showing off (or other situations which need tons of light). That would be absolutely amazing!

 

[CheepSteal]

I'm not too sure about the G2X LED, I'm pretty sure it's an XP-E judging from the size of the die and beam. No idea what it is specifically though.
Good luck with your XM-L setup, you'd get plenty of runtime with low modes. If you are planning on getting it done by Nailbender, this is what is availble:

Cree XM-L $40 2.8-6 volts only THERE ARE NO 8.4 VOLT DRIVERS NONE, NADA

T6 bin 1C / 1D Cool White

T50 flux bin E4 5000k daylight white

T50 flux Bin E3 4500K neutral white

T30 flux bin E7 3000K Warm White

Available levels with memory
1 level
2 level HI / Low
3 level Low / Med / High
3 level Hi / Low / Strobe (rotation of levels may change between driver batches)
5 level Low / Med / High / SOS / Strobe

The 2.8v - 6v drivers would be perfect for a 17670 or 18650 cell, but don't run two RCR123's or you'll fry it.

 

[antikythera]

I'm not too sure about the G2X LED, I'm pretty sure it's an XP-E judging from the size of the die and beam. No idea what it is specifically though.
Good luck with your XM-L setup, you'd get plenty of runtime with low modes. If you are planning on getting it done by Nailbender, this is what is availble:

The 2.8v - 6v drivers would be perfect for a 17670 or 18650 cell, but don't run two RCR123's or you'll fry it.

Yeah, I saw Nailbender's model, thanks. I was talking about a "wouldn't it be great if... " P60. If only...

 

[shao.fu.tzer]

Why do you suggest Manafonts or Solarforces vs. Malkoffs or Nailbenders? Aside from the price advantage, wouldn't the latter two be of higher quality, with better electronics? Also, isn't the stock C2 bezel ring HAIII Al? Thanks!

Well, a $100 upgrade budget doesn't seem like a whole lot to me, so I figured you'd want to squeeze as much out of it as possible. True - the Malkoff or Nailbender will be better put together, but for sheer "bang for your buck" - the drop ins to get right now seem to be Chinese XM-Ls... If you're hard on your lights or if your light is mission critical, then go with the Malkoff/Nailbender suggestion. If you tend to baby your lights a bit and plan on using it for mainly dog-walking, etc, you'll get more lumens for 1/3 the cost and it'll probably last well enough until the next big drop in comes out... I also suggested the Manafont because you said that you'd prefer a 3 mode (L-M-H). For <$20, they're hard to beat right now. Or you could always build one yourself on the cheap if you're handy with a soldering iron.

 

[mojospapi]

Wahoo! Just ordered a C2 also from LA Popo's....let the upgrades begin!

 

[antikythera]

Well, a $100 upgrade budget doesn't seem like a whole lot to me, so I figured you'd want to squeeze as much out of it as possible. True - the Malkoff or Nailbender will be better put together, but for sheer "bang for your buck" - the drop ins to get right now seem to be Chinese XM-Ls... If you're hard on your lights or if your light is mission critical, then go with the Malkoff/Nailbender suggestion. If you tend to baby your lights a bit and plan on using it for mainly dog-walking, etc, you'll get more lumens for 1/3 the cost and it'll probably last well enough until the next big drop in comes out... I also suggested the Manafont because you said that you'd prefer a 3 mode (L-M-H). For <$20, they're hard to beat right now. Or you could always build one yourself on the cheap if you're handy with a soldering iron.

Fair enough. I just bought my C2, so despite owning an HDS Clicky, I'm still not ready to get a flashlight >$200. Yet. Plus college is expensive.

My lights see pretty light use (pun unintended). I think the question I should have asked is: "will a Solarforce drop-in in a Surefire C2 be more durable than your average Fenix light?" If the Solarforce drop-ins are pretty bad, then yes, I'll fork over the cash for a better drop-in.

 

[StandardBattery]

Great and timely thread. I'm expecting my first SF, a C2 HA from LAPG (sorry, couldn't fit any more acronyms in there). Likely a P61 in my future.

Let me help you with that;
OMG I got a WD; a LAPG SF C2 HA w/P60 & 2xSF-CR123A Li, now I'm wanting to KA w/ with a MD CREE LED HO SM D26 M61, and maybe UCL

 

[SixM]

I received the 5-mode XM-L dropin from Manafont the other day, put it in my new C2 and I love it, if only I could get a neutral or warm. For $15 it's well worth it. Meanwhile, maybe I'll save up for a Malkoff, I have my new 6P to think about too.

 

[antikythera]

In the meantime, I just thoroughly degreased and lubed the C2 with Nyogel. It's buttery-smooth now!

 

[PKFan]

Let me help you with that;
OMG I got a WD; a LAPG SF C2 HA w/P60 & 2xSF-CR123A Li, now I'm wanting to KA w/ with a MD CREE LED HO SM D26 M61, and maybe UCL

You win. And I'm newbie enough to not know a bunch of those.

 

[antikythera]

Does anybody know the current draw from the Solarforce XM-L 5-mode dropin?

Also, how is the beam quality? I haven't gotten a response from Nailbender in a while, so I guess I'm going this route if I want multi-mode (which I do). I would like somewhere in the vicinity of 1.5A to get about an hour on high from the 17670.

Thanks!

 

[vincent3664]

I received the 5-mode XM-L dropin from Manafont the other day, put it in my new C2 and I love it, if only I could get a neutral or warm. For $15 it's well worth it. Meanwhile, maybe I'll save up for a Malkoff, I have my new 6P to think about too.

Which tailcap did you use for this multi-mode drop-in? And where did you get the Manafont 5-mode?

 

[shao.fu.tzer]

Does anybody know the current draw from the Solarforce XM-L 5-mode dropin?

Also, how is the beam quality? I haven't gotten a response from Nailbender in a while, so I guess I'm going this route if I want multi-mode (which I do). I would like somewhere in the vicinity of 1.5A to get about an hour on high from the 17670.

Thanks!

All of my Solarforce XM-L dropins are the 1 mode 3-6V variety and all draw ~2.2 according to my cheap multimeter. On primaries the same dropins can net me over 2.8A... If you want 1.5A, goes with a Thrunite... About $30, but you can get multiple modes and they're probably built a little better.

 

[antikythera]

All of my Solarforce XM-L dropins are the 1 mode 3-6V variety and all draw ~2.2 according to my cheap multimeter. On primaries the same dropins can net me over 2.8A... If you want 1.5A, goes with a Thrunite... About $30, but you can get multiple modes and they're probably built a little better.

Thanks, but I already placed the order for the Solarforce 5-mode as a stopgap until the 90CRI XM-L EasyWhites become available. I also got an SS Bezel ring, and the tool to change bezels. I might get a McClicky and a UCL later. The LOTC is actually starting to grow on me.