Surefire U2 body + LU60 adapter + Duracoat =

jch79

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bwaites said:
So will you consider applying the Duracoat for a fee, or are you already doing that and I missed it?

How tough is the coating in real life?
+1 to BOTH of those questions!
john
 

grnamin

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I can Duracoat lights on a case by case basis. If I charge a fee, it's just to cover the cost of the coating and return shipping to you. :) It all depends on what degree of difficulty is involved in taking apart the light for coating. Please PM or email me with the details.

Duracoat seems to be almost as tough as HAIII in some respects, and tougher in other respects. Here are some search results on Duracoat here in CPF:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/search.php?searchid=2056794http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/search.php?searchid=1801044

Cmacclel does a much better job than me. :thumbsup:
 
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bombelman

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Aug 26, 2005
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Great thread, however, I could not see your search results about comparing HAIII to Duracoat...

Cow thick is the coating, if I were to use it in a twisty ?
Will it hold up to oils and grease ?
 

grnamin

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Bombelman, search link fixed. Just in case it doesn't work later on, you can search for the word "Duracoat". I'm not sure exactly how thick the coating is. From observation, I can say that it's thick enought to barely cover the laser etchings on a Surefire at 3 coats. It can stand up to oil and grease so long as it's cured. It takes 24 hours to cure enough for use, but takes 3 weeks to fully cure. You may want to get the whole starter kit because it includes the proprietary degreaser. You don't want to contaminate the coating with any oil or grease or it won't stick. Be sure not to coat the threads, either. :)
 

CM

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For those questioning the durability of Duracoat, I have an AR15 upper receiver Duracoated. For those familiar with AR's, there's a brass deflector aft of the ejection port that gets hammered by ejecting shells and the standard anodizing will wear off in less than a couple hundred rounds. I had put about two thousand rounds through mine before it went through the duracoat. The trick to a good coating is surface prep. You need to spend as much or more time prepping the surface than the time you would spend spraying the stuff on. Remove any oil from the surface. I actually bake the item after cleaning and then dunk in acetone (work outside, the stuff will fry your brains). Apply in thin coats using a spray applicator. Testor makes a hobby spray paint kit that works very well for around $20. Let it cure. Bake it afterwards to speed up the cure process but as Greg says, 3 weeks to fully cure. Haste makes waste but good things come to those that wait ;) Finally, Duracoat has a very limited shelf life. One year according to Steve Lauer. I believe it. Buy just enough. Do not stockpile--stuff degrades pretty quickly.
 
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