XTAR - CES 2014 - VP2 charger

RI Chevy

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Does it have any markings or anything to differentiate between the 2 VP2 chargers? How does one know he/she is getting the upgraded version?
 

ChrisGarrett

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Does it have any markings or anything to differentiate between the 2 VP2 chargers? How does one know he/she is getting the upgraded version?

I had to send my first VP2 back to M.E. in order to get this new one, as I wasn't allowed to keep the defective unit, like some of us were.

I remember that the old box did not have a UPC code on its rear and this one does. Both have security stickers on the unit itself, covering the seam for the two halves. On this new one, the sticker is on the front, facing the user and the old one had its stick on the side, nearest the user, IIRC.

When inputting my old 'anti-piracy security number' into Xtar's site, I kept getting an error, however this was explained by stating that Xtar was just getting back from CES, it was the Chinese New Year and that Xtar is known to be slow at updating their website (Which is true. None of the 3 US Distributors, nor Xtar's HK site made any mention of the VP2, until well after I had my charger in mid February. Even Xtar's banner ad on CPF failed to mention the VP2, deferring to the VP1.

My new number doesn't work either and when I plug in the serial number, it states ITEM NOT FOUND, so I don't know what's up with that?

What's funny is that my PC remembers the old numbers and my old serial number was 00198 and the new one is 02119, so my first one was under 200 and this one is just over 2100 units produced (presumably.)

There's also a little 'advert card' explaining lithium battery technology, which wasn't included in the first box. Both boxes have a slick matte finish, so the the packaging is similar.

There's nothing that I can see that differentiates one unit (or box) from the other, definitively.

Chris
 

Turak

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Got my new VP2 today.

It has the security sticker with the 18 digit code under the scratch off.

When I entered it in the web site the first time I must have missed a digit or had one wrong. It said 'Security Code Does Not Exist'.

I then went ahead and entered it again....this time it came back with a bunch of Chinese characters that I didn't understand. Apparently it said 'this is made by Xtar, rest assured its good to use', meaning its not a fake.

I went ahead and closed by browser and reopened it, went to the web site again, entered my number again and it came back with the correct reply....which was something like 'first time to querey and a date/time'.

So apparently it did work and IS genuine, just seemed to take few tries.

As for using it.....so far so good. Stays very cool even using the 1A setting. I have only used it a couple times so far.....but I like it so far.

Only complaint....its so new the plastic still has a funny smell to it.
 

ChrisGarrett

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Got my new VP2 today.

It has the security sticker with the 18 digit code under the scratch off.

When I entered it in the web site the first time I must have missed a digit or had one wrong. It said 'Security Code Does Not Exist'.

I then went ahead and entered it again....this time it came back with a bunch of Chinese characters that I didn't understand. Apparently it said 'this is made by Xtar, rest assured its good to use', meaning its not a fake.

I went ahead and closed by browser and reopened it, went to the web site again, entered my number again and it came back with the correct reply....which was something like 'first time to querey and a date/time'.

So apparently it did work and IS genuine, just seemed to take few tries.

As for using it.....so far so good. Stays very cool even using the 1A setting. I have only used it a couple times so far.....but I like it so far.

Only complaint....its so new the plastic still has a funny smell to it.

Yeah, my two codes do/did the same thing, but I interpreted that as a failure: First Time To Query, the time/date, both in red with the Chinese characters.

How do you know that 'First Time To Query' is the correct answer?

I've only gotten the above on both of my chargers, but maybe I have things wrong?

I see that they explain things below the box, but I don't recall seeing anything saying that my unit is authentic, but I don't see the message 'security code does not exist,' either.

And when I go and plug in the Serial Number, I get 'product not found,' so that's odd.

Anyhow...

Chris
 

bulgie

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Yeah, my two codes do/did the same thing, but I interpreted that as a failure: First Time To Query, the time/date, both in red with the Chinese characters.

How do you know that 'First Time To Query' is the correct answer?

I've only gotten the above on both of my chargers, but maybe I have things wrong?

I see that they explain things below the box, but I don't recall seeing anything saying that my unit is authentic, but I don't see the message 'security code does not exist,' either.

And when I go and plug in the Serial Number, I get 'product not found,' so that's odd.

Anyhow...

Chris

Just got mine, entered the anti-fake code and got a response I didn't understand, so I tried it again and got the 'First Time To Query' response. But the date/time given was one minute ago, so I was clearly the first person to query that number. What this shows is, the number hasn't been copied off a real one, and then applied to a fake one. At least it's not a number that's been queried earlier by the owner of the real one. Does that make sense?

Oh and when I entered my serial number the first time I got the 'product not found' but then I realized I'd entered the letters as lowercase. When I tried it again with the letters uppercase, I got success. Any chance you made the same mistake I did? Serials aren't usually case-sensitive, but Xtar's are, apparently.

I bought mine from eBay seller andrew_amanda_outdoors a.k.a. Andrew & Amanda a.k.a. "Langlang Intl. LLC". Listed at $49.90 (free shipping) but with a "make offer" option, so I offered $48 and they took it. I thought I was such a Smart Shopper until I realized they have a website where they offer them for $46, also free shipping. Oops, only overpaid by $2. Delivery was fast, shipped from North Carolina.

I emailed customer service at Xtar asking if my serial was affected by the recall, and got a reply same day assuring me (in pretty good English) that mine is second-wave, not recalled.

I charged up a pair of brand-new NCR18650B which came at the usual 3.6 V or so, used 1.0 A, didn't time it but I'm happy there were no flames or any other problem to report. It's a battery charger, it charges batteries!

I played with the USB-out to charge my phone, and I was disappointed to find that it only uses the battery in slot 1. It's been pointed out to me that this is explained in the manual, but who has time to RTFM? ;) I think I will use that function, for car-camping, so I can charge my phone when the car's not running (cig lighter socket is off when the car is off.) haven't tried the cig lighter adapter for the VP2 yet, I hope it doesn't set my car on fire. If you don't hear back from me, it probably means I died horribly in flames, or else just forgot to post back with the results of my testing.

-bulgie
 

ChrisGarrett

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Just got mine, entered the anti-fake code and got a response I didn't understand, so I tried it again and got the 'First Time To Query' response. But the date/time given was one minute ago, so I was clearly the first person to query that number. What this shows is, the number hasn't been copied off a real one, and then applied to a fake one. At least it's not a number that's been queried earlier by the owner of the real one. Does that make sense?

Oh and when I entered my serial number the first time I got the 'product not found' but then I realized I'd entered the letters as lowercase. When I tried it again with the letters uppercase, I got success. Any chance you made the same mistake I did? Serials aren't usually case-sensitive, but Xtar's are, apparently.
-bulgie

Yeah, that makes sense. I'm not worried about it, but it's just an odd type of system.

Funny that you mention Andrew_Amanda, as I bought my ET D25C Ti clicky and an Xtar M1PS from them last week. The little Xtar USB charger only wants to charge up to 4.05v, so I contacted them and we both agreed that it wouldn't be cost effective to have me send it back and then them send me a new one back, since it was only $10 shipped with the light, so I sent them $15 and they sent me a new NiteCore i4 v.2 charger, which is working out well.

I got to keep the M1PS, but apart from an AC wall-wart and a cheap USB cable, it's not doing much.

My VP2 is working fine, but then again, so did the first example that I had.

Chris
 

ChrisGarrett

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I have my XTAR VP2 coming from GoingGear tomorrow so here's to hoping

You'll be happy with it and as long as it's working 100%, you bought a nice consumer charger that's almost as flexible as one could hope for.

It would be nice if it did 250mA, 500mA, 1A and 2A. It would be nice if it allowed both bays to be charged at different rates. And it would be nice if you could do 3.2v (or 3.6v) cells in bay 1 and 3.8v cells in bay 2, for truly autonomous and independent charging, but hey...nothing's perfect, right?

Chris
 

flashflood

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What I really want is a VP4 -- that is, a 4-slot version of the VP2. I just recently bought the NiteCore Intellicharger i4, and while not as sexy as a VP4 would be, I can't complain. It gets the job done. I just really like the idea of having more telemetry.
 

tobrien

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anyone with a VP2: does your VP2 seem laggy? I know it's a charger and not a desktop computer, but my button presses vs. charge current setting changing is pretty slow.

also the time it takes for the LEDs to indicate it's started charging seems slow too
 

ChrisGarrett

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anyone with a VP2: does your VP2 seem laggy? I know it's a charger and not a desktop computer, but my button presses vs. charge current setting changing is pretty slow.

also the time it takes for the LEDs to indicate it's started charging seems slow too

Normal on both of my VP2s.

On the first one, I was quick to press the current setting button, but I now know to go slow.

Two clicks, one second apart, for 1A charging.

It'll take a moment for the charger to shift into the charging mode, again, no biggie, but that's what both of mine do/did.

On another note, on my first one, I noticed that after the cells get to 4.20v on the display, it would take what I thought was an unusually long time to go green. Maybe a solid hour?

I realize that there's a period in the charging protocol where things get 'topped off,' but what I got in the habit of doing and have always done, is to rotate the cells in the chargers slightly, every hour and when I would do this on VP2 #1, the LEDs would soon go green, to the point that I started thinking that this was the norm. I could also see the voltage drop on the display slightly, after turning them on occasion, say from 4.12v to 4.09v and then they would ramp up from there.

On my WP2 II, Maha C-9000 and BC-700, I turn the batteries/cells as a rule and not much happens. Sometimes the WP2 II will go green a few seconds after turning (1/16th of a turn,) but most times the charger keeps charging.

Now, on my VP2 #2, on the few cells that I've charged (I've been playing with my NC i4, v.2,) I haven't noticed this, but I'm a fiddler and so I'm turning them often due to my OCD flaring up, lol.

Just something to be mindful of, going forward.

Break up that point of resistance, a couple of times, if you can.

Chris
 

fridgemagnet

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I just got my Xtar VP2 today - and I'm somewhat confused - it only charges up to 3.8 volts...should it not charge up to 4.2V ?
Will this charger charge up my Samsung INR18650-20R to their full capacity, as topping out at 3.8V seems not so good to me - though I am new to all of this - never having had this sort of battery before, unless you count laptop batteries.
 

HKJ

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Look at this table:
supportedBatteryTypes.png
 

ChrisGarrett

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I just got my Xtar VP2 today - and I'm somewhat confused - it only charges up to 3.8 volts...should it not charge up to 4.2V ?
Will this charger charge up my Samsung INR18650-20R to their full capacity, as topping out at 3.8V seems not so good to me - though I am new to all of this - never having had this sort of battery before, unless you count laptop batteries.

Those voltages listed on the VP2' switch are NOMINAL voltages, not 'hot off the charger' voltages.

3.8v use this ONLY ONLY ONLY for 4.35v cells, like the LG D1s/E1s and the Samsung whatevers.

3.6v use this for 4.2v Li-Co/Li-Mn cells. You can also use the 3.6v setting to charge up the 4.35v/3.8v cells, but they won't be fully charged. You'll still be safe if you mix it up, unlike the reverse.

3.2v use this setting for the LiFePO4 3.2v/3.6 (HOTC) cells.

When you're done charging your 3.6v/3.8v cells, or your 3.8v/4.35v cells, make sure that you get in the habit of placing the switch back on 3.6v, so if you make a mistake with something, you won't damage things.

Chris
 

fridgemagnet

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Thankl you Chris, and HKJ

So it will get a full charge into them ok. Are my Samsungs safe with the 3.8V charge setting? - I am a little scared of these things going bang.
 

ChrisGarrett

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Thankl you Chris, and HKJ

So it will get a full charge into them ok. Are my Samsungs safe with the 3.8V charge setting? - I am a little scared of these things going bang.

You're not listening, or understanding bud.

Samsung INR18650 20-R are 3.6v cells that charge up to 4.20v hot off the charger. We don't call them 4.20v cells, because their nominal voltage is right at 3.6v/3.7v. You will see these voltages used to describe them, not 4.20v.

You will want to use the 3.6v setting on the VP2, not the 3.8v setting.

In the same vein, some Samsung and LG cells charge up to 4.30v/4.35v, but their nominal charge is 3.8v in Xtar's eyes.

You would use this 3.8v setting if you're sure that your cells are 4.35v capable.

Do not use the 3.8v setting on 3.6v/3.7v (4.20v cells.)

Chris
 

RI Chevy

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Oh boy. There is confusion with this charger for the lay person that is not familiar with Li-Ion batteries.
 
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